The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: benlawlor85 on April 28, 2008, 12:47:55 PM
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Hi all,
Not been on for awhile! well the bike has been going good...
untill a few weeks ago, when she started to jump out of first or not so much out of but just make a grinding noise
a quick gearchange seemed to fix it! just a bad change on my part i though?
it Seems not,
She is now doing it lots and making noises in 1st, 2nd and sometimes 3rd
and also when in neutral sounds like a bag of nails are in there!
any ideas what it cud be?
maybe a bearing or one of those prawl springs!? i have no knowledge about gearboxes!
So is it an easy DIY fix or do i get a recon box?
James sherlock do one for £323 which seems ok
Looking back i had heard a noise some months back thought it was noisey tappets or timing chain,
so i do have a timing chain to fit aswell
Anyway any help would be great
Ben Lawlor
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About the only thing you can check easily, is to remove the transmission drain plug and drain the gear oil into a clean container, and see what you have on the way of metal debris in the oil.
Transmission overhaul is not a job for the inexperienced, some specialty tooling is needed.
From the price you quoted, that's a reasonable cost estimate, I had my transmission overhauled about a year ago, cost was $620US, that included bearings, and all 'comsumable' type items in the transmission, and shifter pawl spring, this was pre-emptive maintenance, but after looking at the bearings, it wasn't too soon either ( 80,000 miles on the bike).
Cost can escalate quickly if there are damaged parts other than the normal wear items.
Some members here, bought second hand transmissions and installed them when their transmissions went bad.
If you have the transmission overhauled, be sure to test it yourself, before re-installing it back into the bike.
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Thanks bob,
The price was for a recon-ed exchange unit!
so doesnt seem that bad!
think i may just go with it.
as the bike has done aobut 60-70k(miles) so its due a new-en!
is it easy to get the gearbox out etc?
cheers
Ben
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Removing the gearbox isn't too difficult, but for the first time, you may have to deal with rusted, corroded fasteners and parts, plus add in the possibility of repair attempts by previous owners to complicate matters.
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Not a problem to remove the transmission - if this is your first time, I recommend that you use your digital camera (doesn't everyone have one now?) and take pictures
of things as you go, so that you remember what goes where, about how many threads were showing on the swingarm pivots, swingarm centering, etc. IF you don't have
one yet, it is a good time to get one - doesn't have to be a high end model. We can talk you through the process.
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Hi Guys,
So i have started,
seat, tank, rear cowling, rear wheel, airbox, carbs, exhaust(apart from the right can very well rusted on!) side panels, battery all taken off her!
so next is the swing arm!
any tips etc?
Cheers
Ben
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To get the four 12 point bolts loose, that bolt the driveshaft to the output flange of the transmission, you may want to put the rear wheel back on, and tighten the nut at the end of the rear brake rod, so you can lock the rear wheel with the rear brake, then proceed to loosen the four bolts.
To get the jamnuts loose that secure the swing arm pivot bolts, you need a 27 mm socket, there's a good chance that the socket will not fit, it's too large of a diameter, so do some searching for it, I have Craftsman 27 mm deep socket 1/2 inch drive, and it fits with no problem.
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To get the jamnuts loose that secure the swing arm pivot bolts, you need a 27 mm socket, there's a good chance that the socket will not fit, it's too large of a diameter, so do some searching for it, I have Craftsman 27 mm deep socket 1/2 inch drive, and it fits with no problem.
If you have one of these tools in the tool kit, this is what it is made for.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pbase.com%2Ftomfarr%2Fimage%2F65796761%2Fsmall.jpg&hash=56efd38375ef26a3ce83cb1ee5d2d8075d2533d3)
Also, Motobins sells a socket that should fit, although the face is not milled down like some I have seen (for maximum purchase on the nut):
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.motobins.com%2Flibrary%2F99600.jpg&hash=1929066faa143c3166a03a4aba7168ab339b7656) (http://www.motobins.com/displayfinal.php?function=show&subs=241&title=TOOLS)
clickable pic
Like this one marketed here the US:
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.culayer.com%2FJoes%2FTool_2.gif&hash=b7b75e00a7cb7f6cbadefddbb9a5a1e628ae11d9) (http://www.culayer.com/Joes_tools.htm)
clickable pic
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I've never needed to remove the exhaust for that job.
It's easier to get the gear box out if you disconnect the clutch cable and remove that lever behind the box first.
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My experiences mirror Ed's...
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+1 with Justin and Ed. Also, if you haven't already pulled off the battery box/holder, that makes things go much more smoothly too.
When I pulled my transmission out this past year I left the exhaust system on, left the rear wheel on and just disconnected the drive shaft
at the U-joint with the 12 point stretch bolts (it is recommended that you replace these - use them only 1x though some people re-use them).
Make sure the bike is on a secured bike jack or on its centerstand with blocks under the engine sump to keep things steady and upright.
Take a measurement of the inside space, or gap between the frame tube and swingarm tube to help assure yourself that you have things
back close to being centered upon reassembly. I recommend that you might use something a bit more accurate than a tape measure, but you get the idea.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi159.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft138%2Fnhmaf%2FDSCN0870.jpg&hash=c846103cf5e7ba7c20020c0bce5b8400b000fa67)
Remove the swingarm lock nuts and unscrew the swingarm pivot bolts. Before you put it all back together go in and clean and regrease those
swingarm bearings. I found that just loosening the rear shock absorber mounting bolts and removing the rear brake control pivot and actuating
rod allowed me to just "swing" or push the rear swingarm backward, and inserted a 2x4 wood block and bungied the whole assembly so it would not
slip out of place - gives you plenty of room to work on the transmission and remove it without having the disassemble the entire rear of the bike.
Put an oil drain pain under the driveshaft as it is likely oil will leak out - be sure to drain and replace driveshaft oil and rear drive oil when reassembling
to make sure that you have the right amount of good juice in there when you have the replacement transmission fitted.
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Hi all thanks for the tips but i totally forgot about the forum till now!
damnit i know i had to measure the play! :S
anyway here is the update
shaft and bevel box off as is gearbox.
but i did forget to measure the threads etc! humm anyway sure i can get around it
bike is covered with magic rust paint at the moment!
and will be ordering the Gearbox on tuesday probs!
Also going to paint up the shaft and i suppose i should do the timing chain and the push-rod rubbers while im at it...
Cheers
All
PS. nice R100GS PD on uk ebay at the mo... uhmm tempting!