The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: montmil on April 12, 2008, 07:19:23 AM
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Been searching the site and other www's looking for the answer... What's a "hinged" oil filter and how does it differ from the "regular" filter? Which one is commonly used? Why?
Saw one blurb about BMW scooter filters being available at NAPA. True?
Lots of scary stories about incorrectly installed o-rings and washers leading to leaks and ultimate "$2000 o-ring repairs". Oh, Lordy. How does something so relatively simple become such a nightmare?
What's the straight skinny for our R65's? Veteran R65'ers are invited to chime in. Perhaps this subject could become a FAQ topic.
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Stick with Mahle, BMW OEM (which ostensibly are Mahle I understand) or Donit filters for your bike and you can't go wrong. There may be others available where you are, I'll let others comment.
Here's the straight filter
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.munichmotorcycles.com.au%2Fimages%2Fproducts%2Fmain%2F02101_R.JPG&hash=5554a1c34374785746c61110c7c9561c1526a13a)
Here's the bendy filter
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.munichmotorcycles.com.au%2Fimages%2Fproducts%2Fmain%2F02201_R.JPG&hash=7f07b4cfaae212a93b9221131e3a2e732f3feacc)
Both will fit your bike, the bendy is for when engine bars, headers or fairings make extracting a straight filter difficult. A bendy oil filter is also made for bikes fitted with oil coolers. However it is longer and has different ends/seals. If you ask for a bendy, specify NO oil cooler or you could end up with a wrongun!
Filter change easy, filter in, next shim, then cover with O ring fitted to it, no need for the paper gasket. After a while you could do it in your sleep.
Bill..................;-)
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There have been a few instances of aftermarket filters collapsing, one of our mrmbers here Mrridden82R65LS, if I'm mistaken, had one do this recently.
Can't remember if it was a Fram, or K&N oil filter.
Best bet is to stay with OEM parts in this instance.
When I installed an oil cooler on my '81 R65, I had to change the center pipe in the oil filter housing to a longer one, is this also the case with using a non-oilcooler hinged oil filter?
Once you get the filter cover off and the filter out, you will see it really isn't all that difficult, it's just a bit out of the ordinary for a motorcycle oil filter installation.
Like Bill said, oil filter in first, then install the thin sheet metal ring, there's a small lip inside, that it rests against, then install the cover with the o-ring installed.
One thing you might want to check, is with the filter out, take a look into the oil filter cavity, and there is a pipe in the middle of it, check to see if someone may have left an o-ring in there, the original filters didn't have any seals on them, you had to put an o-ring on the pipe, then install the filter.
I've heard of people finding this one still installed on their bikes on the first oil change after having purchased the bike from another owner.
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I figured the 'bendy' as a God send for my 84' R65. To properly change the oil the manual reads to heat the bike up to thin the oil out. BUT to remove my oil filter I need to unfasten and move to the rear the exhaust pipe.My exhaust pipe is 2 inches from the door of the oil filter. I cant run the bike with open headers so Im supposed to remove the pipe hot!?! The straight filter doesnt clear but the bendy is puuuuurfect.
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Thanks, guys. [smiley=dankk2.gif] I figure a couple hundred more questions and I can shut up.
I'd rather ask first than pay later.
Monte
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...................When I installed an oil cooler on my '81 R65, I had to change the center pipe in the oil filter housing to a longer one, is this also the case with using a non-oilcooler hinged oil filter?........................
No, the bendy (no oil cooler) and straight filters I show in the pics are exactly the same length and perfectly interchangeable.
Bill...................;-)
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11 42 1 337 570 hinged oil filter (short - non-oil cooler)
11 42 1 337 098 big o-ring
11 42 1 336 895 metal washer
I have been using the hinged (short) oil filters ever I saw pictures of a long one that had collapsed in the center, presumably from oil pressure. I am pretty sure it was OEM.
The hinged filter has slightly less surface area, but with the shorter segments, it is stronger.
I used normal straight filters for the first 20 years of owning the bike. I only blew up one engine, and the oil falling off of that filter onto that warm header (let the pipes cool off a bit before you tear in there - the oil will stay warm for a few minutes!) made a real mess out of my right header.
Be careful of your force on the fasteners holding the cover. They are steel, and are going into aluminum threads. You can't really get a torque wrench in there, just use a small wrench (are you lucky enough to have the tool kit?) and snug them up good, without getting carried away. [size=14]CHECK FOR LEAKS[/size].
Before you ride off, let it run for a minute to check for leaks. I crushed an O-ring once, and I got to the gas station a couple of miles away before I realized what had happened! I was scared.
As airhead said, put the O-ring on the cover when installing it. It will stay in place, and make installation easy.
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11 42 1 336 895 metal washer
Rob-
I assume that the "metal washer" above is the shim that goes between the cap/red o'ring and the filter canister. Correct?
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Rob-
I assume that the "metal washer" above is the shim that goes between the cap/red o'ring and the filter canister. Correct?
Bill90 - The O-ring should be white (I've never seen a red one).
And yes, the metal ring goes in first, before the large O-ring.
I always put the o-ring on the cover, anyway. It holds the o-ring in place, and makes everything easier. The flat metal ring will usually stay in place with no problem, in it's place against the filter canister, where it protects our o-ring from potential danger of sharp edges.
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There have been a few instances of aftermarket filters collapsing, one of our mrmbers here Mrridden82R65LS, if I'm mistaken, had one do this recently.
Can't remember if it was a Fram, or K&N oil filter.
It was a Fram CH6061. Came out flat as the proverbial pan cake! O ring and shim held up tho. Like it's been said, and I learned, get the OEM and read this http://www.largiader.com/tech/filters/canister.html
rich
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I actually had an OEM filter collapse in my bike. Don't have any idea what caused it. Only happened once...
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Rob-
I assume that the "metal washer" above is the shim that goes between the cap/red o'ring and the filter canister. Correct?
Bill90 - The O-ring should be white (I've never seen a red one).
And yes, the metal ring goes in first, before the large O-ring.
I always put the o-ring on the cover, anyway. It holds the o-ring in place, and makes everything easier. The flat metal ring will usually stay in place with no problem, in it's place against the filter canister, where it protects our o-ring from potential danger of sharp edges.
Thank you Rob. The bike is a 1979 R65 barn find (built 12/78). When we removed the filter cover, the o-rings were red(!). And I do mean RINGS. The PO had jammed a small red o ring onto the back of the spindle that holds the filter. And there was a small red o ring on the cover as well.
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Those small red o-rings were the original design installation for the oil filters.
The tube type integral seals on the filter, came into use sometime in the mid to late '80's.
That filter you removed is most likely quite old !!
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For as long as I have been changing my own oil on this bike (1980?), I have never been sold a filter that needed the separate o-rings on the ends. I suppose someone with old stock could have changed the oil at some point.
That would probably explain why I have never seen a red o-ring.
I also found out by playing with a filter, that those integral sealing rings can come out quite easily.
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I remember them from the mid-late 70s. Always had to dig around with a hook made out of a paper clip to retrieve the one O-ring on the tube. Ah, the good-ol days when this was all you had to worry about was this instead of the "$2000" O-ring
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I bought 12 oil filters about a year after getting the R65, it got them from Albuquerque Filterworks, in Albuquerque, New Mexico.
If you bought 12 or more, the filters were $3US each, and free shipping, this is when Purolator ( I think!) was the OEM supplier for BMW motorcycle oil filters ( air filters also).
So I may have gotten the last of the original type filters, didn't buy anymore until 1989, from Competition Accessories.
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I bought my last batch from Eurotech Motorsports, they were Mahle and several dollars less than the local Stealer wanted... The last one I bought from BMW Motorcycles of Ft. Worth was an even $20 with the tax. This was not for the filter kit but just the filter...
I just checked Eurotech and their page states they are now wholesale only and referred retail Airhead customers to:
http://www.flugelnus.com
I checked out the site and they have the Mahle filters...
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After owning a BMW cage for 7 years, I've found that Mahle, and Mann are high quality filters for the cages, and I've seen the same manufacturers name on bike filters as well.
I wouldn't have any qualms about using either in either of the bikes.
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I started using them because the OEM BMW filter is a Mahle, even has the Mahle part number inscribed on it. I use Mann filters in the Volvo...