The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
General Category => Chit-Chat => Topic started by: JPSpen on July 11, 2011, 10:06:21 PM
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Just picked up an 82 R65 on Saturday..
I'm going to be needing some parts to restore the headlight and turn signals..It had a Vetter fairing on it and the guy I got it from took it off and now I have a little bit of a mess to clean up...
I will not cafe this bike ! :D
I'd post a pic but I can't yet... Gimme a minute.
John
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Hopefully this is posts number 2 and in post number three I can put a pic..
I will trade the Vetter fairing and mounting setup to anyone who will trade me the complete headlight, backplate, and turn signals..
John
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Now for the pic...
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi53.tinypic.com%2F2dazvh3.jpg&hash=0ed56902b46348540711264fe7b242556609ac5c)
John
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Good looking bike !!
Great looking line-up of bikes in the back, looks like a GS, RT oilhead and an R1200C .
Welcome aboard !!
Enjoy the insanity !!!!
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Welcome aboard mate, that looks very well looked after mate, love the blue [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
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She's in pretty good shape BUT !!!!
There's a puddle of gear oil under her this morning... Looks like it's dripping off the front boot....Here's to hoping the tech just did a sloppy job when he tuned her up... He certainly didn't get the carbs right..
John
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Stay away from synthetics if your doing oil changes.................
Lou
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No synthetic for me....I know better...
I think I have sourced a complete headlight assembly....Yea ! 8-)
Headlight and turn signal assembly on the way !
John
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Never even noticed it had two sidestands on it.. I guess the other is a Browns ????
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi53.tinypic.com%2F2myc8xf.jpg&hash=62bf0af6ea91958b66f123b11a997dda7d7d0982)
And, Everything under the hood looks A-OK !
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi56.tinypic.com%2F29cbdhy.jpg&hash=5f50e66d9b2572fbf0e395d6bff6a9a3be35a5d6)
This is all I have left to deal with after the complete VetterEctomy.. I have a complete backplate, headlight, and turn signals on the way... :)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi53.tinypic.com%2F24x2dlw.jpg&hash=e2c2b37c1eb5dac0d7e1d7f8dc4622c24804ae9d)
John
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... And, Everything under the hood looks A-OK ! John
Uh Oh. Do my pitifully tired, old eyes spy the accursed BMW Crack-O-Matic ignition coil? The agony...
And, what's that down on the end of those plug wires? I do believe those are OEM metal spark plug caps.
John, you and your R65 have arrived at the right place and at the right time. We can save you from the embarrassment of one day having to push your new R65 back to the house. Uphill. Both ways. In the rain.
The Beemer Airhead Chorus will chime in shortly. I can hear them now clearing their throats and keyboards...
Glad to have you with us, John. Nice scoot, too. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Monte
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Aaaaaahh, meeee meeee mmeeeeeeee!
Indeed, when you get a chance, many of us would recommend that you update your BMW dual coil (though yours looks like it might have been replaced already from the original BMW coil, still....) with the nifty DYNA BROWN coil (it is really orange in color) for trouble free operation. NGK plug caps (with resistors) are better sealed against the elements, too. There is a seller on ebay who sells them premade with decent cable, in a variety of colors, too.
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There is a seller on ebay who sells them premade with decent cable, in a variety of colors, too.
Yeah - for $25!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-Motorcycle-Airhead-Wires-R65-R75-R80-R90-R100-/330586218863?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf879616f
I like Mikes (XS supply, that is). $5 for the wires, $8 for the caps.
http://www.mikesxs.net/products-27.html#products
And don't throw away your old wires without first de-soldering the tips that go into the coil. Reuse them. They are much better than the crimp-on type.
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Any problems with ignition issues during high humidity days, rain, fog, whatever, can often be traced to the black/gray OEM coil fitted to the R65. Tiny cracks in the plastic case are the death knell for the aptly named Crack-O-Matic BMW coil. On my '81, the cracks appeared in a circular pattern on one end. Had to actually clean the coil to find 'em. I've seen photos of a coil with a longitudinal crack running the length of the coil.
Herr Crack-O-Matic can trace his heritage back to the English Lord Lucas, the Prince of Darkness, his third cousin twice removed.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R65%2FOrigCoil01.jpg&hash=a447270ec5268e3d44ba4a6c971f625f7143d9b3)
This is my recommendation for some ignition coil peace of mind.
The Dyna Brown -see? I swear it's orange- is an easy plug 'n play. Now that you have an Airhead, it's time to introduce yourself to Rick Jones at Motorrad Elektric. http://www.motoelekt.com/index.html Rick can assist with all manner of electrical issues. Plus, you can call him with tech questions and he's actually happy to talk with you. Northern Alabama he is.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R65%2FDyna01.jpg&hash=39bb5a2ec402f1260e47ddc3d16414829f2a73cf)
Everything you need for installation is included with the Dyna package.
[size=16]+[/size][smiley=thumbup.gif] for Mike's XS. This Yamaha specialist in Florida has the NGK goodies and many other electrical wiring bits that cross-pollinate with our Airheads.
Monte
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Yep, sure looks like a crack-o-matic to me. IIRC, the original had the screw on terminal, while the later replacements had a spade terminial.
If it is original to the bike, you are on borrowed time. I just replaced my 1982 crack-o-matic with a brown Dyna. What a difference, and what a savings over a BMW coil.
k_enn
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The wires and coil still appear to be in good shape compared to the ones on my 91 GS...There's a shop here in town that sells wire and the caps. Already did that to the GS....I'll check the coil carefully and probaby just replace it..Keep the old ones for spares..
Thanks for all the input guys.. The Evil Lucal lives !
John
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Looks like the oil leak is from the boot...A big drip hanging there this mornign..
Any Ideas ? Take it apart and clean the surfaces good and put her back together ?
The bike was serviced in December.. The tech didn't do a very good job on the carbs.. Is the driveshaft wet on this bike ?
John
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Have you tried just tightening up the clamps a bit ?
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Actually I just tightened the rear clamp quite a bit...So we'll see on that..
Again I ask the question.. It this drive shaft wet ? is there supposed to be oil in there. ? I took out the filler plug and dipped a piece of wire in there.. It didn't go very far and didn't have oil on it when it came back out...I'm going to have to do a little more reading on the duolever and see what's up..
John
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The forward most fill port on the final drive is the fill port for the drive shaft .
The u-joint gets splash lubed from this oil, you should always get a few fluid ounces of oil when you pull the boot free of the transmission or swing arm .
When you replace the oil, you put in a measured amount, can't remember right now what it's supposed to be, I think it's 250 ml, but not real sure .
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OK, thanks Rob, That's re-assuring.. So as long as it's leaking their is oil in it. ;)
Or it's coming out of the transmission... Think I'll check that just for giggles...
The clamp in the rear looks like it's been f'messed with a little anyway..
Found a local Ambo today.. It's friggin awesome... I'm thinking about going and buying it too... I'm going to give myself overnight I think...
Maybe in the morning it'll be sold.. That'd be my luck...
John
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And , it appears that JPSpen is our 1000th member of the forum - welcome aboard (big pile of confetti showering down)!
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cwgsy.net%2Fcommunity%252Ftosy%2Fimages%2Fconfetti.gif&hash=2f52614123263c836e9d1e852e6dac9c42cefd9c)
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And that drain plug for the drive-shaft WILL strip out quite easily if you attempt to stop a leak by tightening it beyond spec. (I have a heli-coil in mine... :-[ )
For this reason, I like to seek out the REAL copper crush washers that were easily available back in the eighties. Now the only place I know to buy them is Hucky's: http://www.bmwhucky.com/010026.html
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bmwhucky.com%2F0075pictures%2F007526%2F07119963140.jpg&hash=dae66595e6ce34ce202528afd9c991c67def9ce8)
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And , it appears that JPSpen is our 1000th member of the forum - welcome aboard (big pile of confetti showering down)!
It's O.K. Mike, only me! ;)
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I generally try to re-anneal my crush washers... :o
John
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Thanks, Rob! I suspected it was you, but if it wasn't, then there truly is a ghost in the machine!
JPSpen - I've had only partial success re-using these crush washers - general theory is that it is best to have some around (they aren't expensive) as anytime I've had one start to leak on me, it cost me WAAY more time and $$ to repair the damage than the 15 cents or so for the washer.
YMMV
AS to the swingarm/driveshaft oil level, the BMW manuals indicate that if one sticks a small flat tip screw driver straightdown into the driveshaft fill hole on top, with the bike on its centerstand on a level surface, the oil level is correct if there is 1-2mm of oil on the tip of the screwdriver. It will not go down far into the hole before it contacts the driveshaft itself - the driveshaft should be just immersed in the oil at that point.
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AS to the swingarm/driveshaft oil level, the BMW manuals indicate that if one sticks a small flat tip screw driver straightdown into the driveshaft fill hole on top, with the bike on its centerstand on a level surface, the oil level is correct if there is 1-2mm of oil on the tip of the screwdriver. It will not go down far into the hole before it contacts the driveshaft itself - the driveshaft should be just immersed in the oil at that point.
Now how easy was that... Too bad It couldn't be that simple in the shop manual...
Thanks...
John
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In my experience, the BMW riders I have associated with seemed to consider themselves and their rides far superior to any other, especially any other push rod twin.
Now how easy was that... Too bad It couldn't be that simple in the shop manual...
Thanks...
John
Who are you quoting?
You should really consider getting one of the riders manuals (the one that fits under the seat) for you bike.
It is a wealth of information - like where on the bike do I need oil? :)
Here is a scanned copy we keep online. I believe it is for the '81-'84 models. The '78-'80 were not that different, however.
http://www.bmwr65.org/htdocs/yabbfiles/Attachments/R65OwnersManual_001.pdf
It is in this thread, which is found in the FAQ section:
http://www.bmwr65.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1271881232
That is a good section to browse through.
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Oops... Copy/paste fail....
Fixd...
John
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Now how easy was that... Too bad It couldn't be that simple in the shop manual...
Yeah, if you check the PDF of the Riders Manual - page 55 of the book, page 20 of the PDF, you will see in the far right picture that very procedure.
http://www.bmwr65.org/htdocs/yabbfiles/Attachments/R65OwnersManual_001.pdf