The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
General Category => Chit-Chat => Topic started by: Boycie1150 on October 16, 2010, 02:28:51 PM
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Evening all. My name is Phil, and I am from the UK. I will soon be the fortunate recipient of an R65 from my father. He bought the bike new way back in 1980 and has had it ever since. He has not ridden it since 1985, and it has been sitting in his garage siince then. It has done, get this, 10500 miles which I think makes it quite remarkable. I suspect to find an example with this mileage on is going to be hard to beat.
Anyway, he has offered it to me and I intend to restore it. It is not far off showroom condition anyway as it has been stored in a dry garage all its life. I need to inspect it closely, but I think that it will just need various deals replacing, fluids pads and tyres changing, and it will be good to go. It is bloody imaculate!
i intend to use it for sunny days and the odd tour, perhaps. As it belonged to my Dad who is nearly 80years old now, it has a family history, so I want to treat it with loving care.
Anyway, having had a brief trawl through this site, I suspect I might be back, as it appears to be a mine of information. Look forward to chatting with you guys
Phil
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Good score, Phil. It's a family affair.
Several UK R65ers on this forum so you'll find some riding friends and help when you need it.
Do one more post and the webmasters who will be obeyed will allow you to post up some photos of your family heirloom. If we don't see some pics, the bile obviously doesn't exist. ;)
Welcome to the asylum. Resistance is futile. There ain't no cure.
Monte
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Welcome Phil .
Sounds like you got yourself a sweet bike with low mileage !
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Welcome aboard Phil. I think you're gonna like the bike. Just a suggestion to do a really close inspection on the inside of the tank. It's not uncommon for a bike that sits up that long to have rust.
Everything you need to know about care and feeding can be found here. Lots of good knowledgeable folks.
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Welcome Phil
I got mine 4 years back with only 6185 miles on the clock. After the obvious fluids etc take a close look at anything made of rubber. Somethings may have perished including the tyres.
Another thing to check is that the grease may have dried out in the headstock, swinging arm and wheel bearings
You have an early model which is in the minority as far as R65s go and there are a few minor differences.
Presume you will have the original riders manual. If not someone will send you a scanned PDF copy.
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Hi, Phil,
Welcome to the club! (Some Beemerliebers on the other side of the brand call us a cult. ;D ) Like the government, we're here to help. (Ha!) Seriously, there aren't many problems that you might have that someone here can't happily help you fix; there are none that anyone won't lend a friendly message to try to correct. So don't hesitate to ask. Myself, I'm so new to the group, my reaction to some of these discussions is still "???!!"
You have an early model which is in the minority as far as R65s go and there are a few minor differences.
True, but you have the essentials: frame, engine block, basic design. The R65 was in production so long, it was evolutionary. You don't like the '79's stopping power with the single front diak? There's a retrofit kit in existence that converts to dual disk, which stops much quicker. Do ignition points give you a hassle? It's possible to convert to electronic ignition. Is the '79's center stand a hassle? BMW Motorrad redesigned the R65's center stand in 1982 or so, and it's a dream. Others of us have replaced the BMW stand with a Century Ride-Off stand, and swear by it. (I have a 1983 R65 center stand on my '81 It's a bolt-on, requiring only a return spring about 1 cm. different length. (Longer or shorter, I can't recall at the moment. :-[ ) It's great! Is the '79 sidestand a dropped bike waiting to happen? Many of us opted for a Brown's sidestand, and my sense is that those who have one, love it. (I have one, and I do.)
The advice in the previous replies is excellent. Do what our colleagues suggest regarding fluid changes, maintenance, and adjustments, and you should have an exceptionally dependable machine that's a delight to ride. Beyond that point, enjoy the projects of improving lights, horn, and reflectives to make the bike safer, and finding a windscreen to make it more comfortable in bad weather. One caution: there are differing opinions about radical modifications to make the R65 significantly faster. Though some hardy riders have dropped R80 or even R100 engines into an R65 frame, others say, "The R65 does not soup up well; if you want a faster bike, buy a faster bike in the first place." (Your countrymen, Lucky Lou or Steve ("Lighter, faster - where's me hacksaw!") - might disagree on that point.)
Summary: You have a great bike that, with luck and no crashes, will last for decades. (Maybe one of your children will inherit.) A lot of TLC and a moderate number of Euros should make it something that will stand out among a group of parked bikes at a gathering. Enjoy the ride!
John
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Welcome!
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Hi Phil,
Welcome to an excellent resource for valuable information on the "65".
I got mine about 13 months ago and am deep into a complete rebuild, without a doubt, the guys n" gals on here are extremely helpful and passionate about airheads!
They have helped me when I have found myself in difficult times when stripping the bike down.
Sounds you have a "minter", nice!
Enjoy your machine and ask for help whenever you need it. I live in the UK (West Yorkshire), so welcome to a growing band of brothers...
Cheers
Chris
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Summary: You have a great bike that, with luck and no crashes, will last for decades. (Maybe one of your children will inherit.) A lot of TLC and a moderate number of [size=18]Euro,s[/size] should make it something that will stand out among a group of parked bikes at a gathering. Enjoy the ride!
John
Welcome Phil.......John are you trying to start a riot !!!!!! Euro,s ....Euro,s over my dead body if it aint got the Queens Head on it its worthless round here...
Lou
ps where in the UK are you ? Our R65s stand out where ever you park them..
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I'll er, take the one in front please...
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Just want to chime in here Phil as one of the few but very informed [smiley=wink.gif] [smiley=rolleyes.gif] females who own an R65 and are active on this forum....welcome!! I do have an another motive too...I love England, Yorkshire in particular, and may get there some day again and am scheming to get to ride with some of you blokes!!!!!
Hmmm...I think the comment about checking the gas tank to make sure the liner (red) looks intact is good advice. All and every filter needs to be looked at for particulates. Float bowl on the carbs for sure and any inline fuel filter/strainer and the gaskets. One thing that got me but may not be an issue with such a low mileage bike...check that the domed final drive filler cap is RAISED say 3-5 mm (?) above the hex nut so the final drive can breath. You will be changing the oil there so good time to check that out. Nhmaf can add the correct height it should be raised.
Oh yeah, there are O-rings on the brake actuating arm that goes through the final drive hub from Left to right. It comes out after the shoes are taken off and the rear brake rod released from the arm on the right side. The rubber on those O-rings there may have deteriorated and need replacing. I have 3 O rings, there may be more I have read as this is one place things seem to vary.
Good blow by blow about how to clean and grease the steering head bearings on this forum in the maintenance section. If you wobble down the road and have a hard time steering, that might be a culprit.
But hey, if it's your lucky day, none of these things will be an issue. Never feel embarrassed about asking a question, no matter how mundane, on this forum. The guys are very good about answering without any snide remarks. This is the best forum!!!!
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I have 3 O rings, there may be more I have read as this is one place things seem to vary.
They do vary in number on the later bikes but as Phil's bike is a 1980 model I suspect he may find there are no O rings on the rear brake shaft nor are any needed on the early type final drive so don't think of it as a fault or in any way inferior if you find none. It's just one of the differences from the 81 on models where the shaft is lubricated by the final drive oil. Early ones are greased so it may still be worth removing for a clean and new grease.
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They do vary in number on the later bikes but as Phil's bike is a 1980 model
Pfffffffffffft - what a youngster! '79 here, and I love it
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Blimey, thanks for the welcome chaps and chappesses. Actually, I suspect that the bike is slightly younger than 1980. I talked to my dad the other day about it, as I found that the bike has in fact got twin discs at the front, which I think will make it 1981 onward. I need to look at the reg document to check. No matter. I am in the process of sorting out my trailer to get it over to my house. Hopefully, that will happen in the next month and then i can get a real look at the bike an see what's what. I have actually owned several BMW twins in the past, including two R80s, so I am pretty clued up as to the usual BMW twin issues. The last twin i owned was an R1150GS. what a cracking bike that was! Sadly missed. I intend to get a 1200GS Adventure in due course, but it will have to wait until I can afford one.
For whoever asked where I am in the UK, I am in Northamptonshire.
When I can, I will post up some pics.
laters
Phil
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Post the last seven characters of the bikes VIN, you can get the month and year of manufacture .
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the bike has in fact got twin discs at the front, which I think will make it 1981 onward.
For whoever asked where I am in the UK, I am in Northamptonshire.
When I can, I will post up some pics.
laters
Phil
Phil i have a 79 which has twin discs it seems there are quite a few from that period in the UK fitted as standard my brothers 81 has too.
im doing a big bike event in mid May at Market Harborough not a million miles from you if you fancy a brew at the Lucky Lou Saloon....be warned ill be wearing a big hat and tottin iron.....lol
Lou
ps the r65 is a thing of beauty full of grace if you want speed your in the wrong place.IMHO
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My 79 has the single disc but I do have a second caliper in a cardboard box. The previous owner didn't think it was necessary and never fitted it. Neither do I, so far - but maybe one day?
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Right then. Bit of an update. Yesterday, I trailered the Beemer back home from my Dads house. I have washed all the years of accumulated crap and dust off it and had a cursory look around it. It seems pretty clean. thankfully, Dad used to keep it covered in oil and stuff which has meant that the frame and metalwork generally is clean and tidy underneath. Good man 8-)
The brake calipers had to come off. The pistons are stuck in the bores, but I think that stripping them down and cleaning will sort this out.
The fuel tank was full of old petrol, and there is quite a bit of crap inside. I need to clean it out properly, and i hope that sealing it will be all that's needed. I don't see any evidence of real rust. The fuel cap has stuck in, so will need popping out using the trusted method of a rope through the handle, round ones shoulders, and PULL!! ::) I have had to do this before, so it shouldn't be a problem.
I have sorted a shopping list of parts for it which isn't too horrendous. Just need to persuade the good lady wife to release some funds for me, and save me Christmas money!! :) ::)
The really great thing is that I have been bikeless for the last there years, and it is sooo good to get my hands on another bike again. i am really grateful to Dad for him giving it to me. i hope that when it is back up and running again, I am able to take him out for a ride. i am sure he will be chuffed to bits with that.
When I get going, i will sort out some photos for them whats interested.
Cheers
Boycie
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Glad to hear your finally getting to grips with this bike...piccys soon please.Before you yank the fuel cap try a bit of penetating oil put a stud in a drill with hammer function stick a bit of thick plastic over the cap and vibrate away.. worked for me.
Failing that theres a small BMW logo on the cap, if you drill a small hole (2-3mm) down through the "M" you can put a self tapper down it which will lock up the mechanism and leave you with a working fuel cap.
Lou
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UPDATE!!!! Hooray!!!!! :D ;D
It has been a while since my last post, I see, back in December last year. I have posted a picture of the bike having just brought it home and given it a wash. (sorry the picture is a bit big, forgot to reduce its size)
Well, finally, things are moving on. I have got some funds together and the rebuild is started. I have just put a bloody great order in for shiny goodies, well various replacement parts!!! I started stripping things down and looking to see what will need to be replaced and what is fine. Bearing in mind this is a thirty year old bike, it is in bloody amazing condition.
Essentially, it appears as I first thought. Brakes are being stripped down and all the seals replaced, along with new tasty Goodridge hoses. I thought the calipers would be well clagged up, but in fact, they are very clean. I have had to break the two halves of each caliper apart to give them a good clean of old fluid, but there is little gumming up of the calipers and various chambers.
I need to sort the fuel tank out as it is rusty inside, as per usual,. Nothing too horrendous, nothing that some of the finest vinegar wont sort out, I am sure!!!
I need to get it started up soonest, so I can establish if there is any real problems with the engine, etc. I don't anticipate anything, really, but you never know. It certainly is not worn out at only 10 1/2 k miles. Hopefully seals and stuff will be fine.
Ultimately, the bike is going to be put to use as a commuting machine and for pleasure at weekends. I see no reason why not, even given its age. It isn't going to get thrashed, I am too old for that nonsense now. Well, maybe every so often 8-)
I think my Dad will be well chuffed when he sees the finished product.
I will be getting some photos uploaded in due course, so hopefully I aint gonna bore anyone to death!!!
Already this site has been of enormous help. I have done quite a bit of reading and various jobs will be made easier with the specialist knowledge of the machine that I have found here. Cheers, all.
Until the next time........
Phil
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Oooo... Blingy! Me likey. :)
Early style air box but later Bings carbs. Likely a points ignition in the ol' bean can, too. And the glare from those beautiful headers and muffs... sunglasses, anyone?
Gosh, even the rust-free OEM Boge shocks are still holding the fender off the rear tire. Sweet.
Love the fuel tank hanging on the garden gate. Yard art for now? ;D
Get busy, Phil. Let's see if the old girl will make some steam.
And do check in a bit more often, Lou misses you.
Monte
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Phil,
If you ever plan to ride in the rain, you may want to replace those spark plug caps & wires.
NGK is my favorite.
When you unplug the wires from the coils, UN-solder the metal caps that goes in the coil and save them for your new set of wires. A much better way of doing business than the crimp-on type cap.
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Wow, you have been busy. The bike looks really clean and shiny. Your dad sure must have oiled it before storage all right!
Good work! POR 15 may be an option for relining the gas tank if the vinegar reveals rust inside. WD40 the final drive's filler/breather cap. I think I can see that it is raised up which is a good thing. Saves a bunch of oil spewing onto the wheel rims if it can breath. There may be O-rings on the brake actuating arm which goes through the final drive and they may need replacing...easy job while sorting the rear wheel details. The arm just pulls out from the leftside.
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Believe it or not, the condition of the bike in the admittedly crap mobile phone photo is as it is. All I had done at that point was wash it. The shiny silencers, (or muffs, as I see them referred to above, you DON'T want to know the english variation in meaning for that word!!) are stainless Keihan ones, I think. Dad bought them roundabout 1984 and never fitted them.
Early style air box but later Bings carbs. Likely a points ignition in the ol' bean can, too. And the glare from those beautiful headers and muffs... sunglasses, anyone?
Gosh, even the rust-free OEM Boge shocks are still holding the fender off the rear tire. Sweet.
As far as the shocks go, they are original and the chrome is literally perfect, as appears to be the damping. I think I can get replacement bushes which have perished a bit. If not, then I will replace, although I would rather not at this stage. I want to keep it as original as possible.
Montmil, your comment about the early style airbox and later carbs is an interesting one. The bike is totally original, as it came out of the shop. It was built in July 1980 and nothing has been changed at all. I have done some checking and I s'pose it will have points ignition which I don't really like. I think I will probably put up with them, but eventually convert to electronic ignition. Mind you, I don't recall Dad ever having had problems with the contact system, so we shall see how we go.
Tonight I painted the subframe. It wasn't bad, but has definitely benefitted from a tarting up. Ultimately, I ain't intending to have the bike back up to fresh out of the box condition, I am not too concerned about that. It will look very clean, especially bearing in mind its age, but it will be functional and ridden often.
AS ever, TTFN
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...The shiny silencers, (or muffs, as I see them referred to above, you DON'T want to know the english variation in meaning for that word!!) ...
Me likey shiny Muffs! [smiley=happy.gif]
Monte
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boycie wrote on Yesterday at 14:38:21:
...The shiny silencers, (or muffs, as I see them referred to above, you DON'T want to know the english variation in meaning for that word!!) ...
Me likey shiny Muffs!
Monte
Um.....shiny muffs, now there's a thing! ;D 8-)
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Would be kinda odd! Interesting the differences in terms and their colloquialisms. Take those Adel clamps for instance and jubilees.
Anyway, like LRB my R65LS, it came needing really just a good polish!
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Well, today and yesterday, I have been mostly stripping down the forks, cleaning them up and replacing the seals. Pretty much everything else in the forks is as new, so well chuffed. The sliders have been polished to within an inch of their life, so they are now gleaming. I invested in a polishing mop kit which fits into an electric drill. It has worked wonders with the alloy.
I have cleaned out the petrol tank which is in reasonable nick inside. I think I will still need to put in new sealer though.
Now then, a question, if you please? The filler cap is bugging me somewhat. I am aware that when the cap is locked, it simply rotates, which stops anyone removing it. When it is unlocked, it has a catch system within the cap which allows the whole thing to then be unscrewed. Is it possible to dismantle the cap to any degree? Mine is not behaving as it should. It seems that although the lock can be turned in the normal way, it won't actually lock, i.e. the cap will still be able to be unscrewed. In addition, I don't seem to be able to screw the cap tight before the catch system clicks through. Crap explanation, sorry!! Also, I renewed the cap gasket, which sits between the cap and the filler neck to prevent fuel escaping. The cap now sits 5 mill proud of the tank. Basically the gasket is of a different design to the original. Might have to find an alternative.
Any road up, things are generally going well. The forks came apart easily with no buggering about. Next job is to dismantle the head bearings and re-grease. Then the transmission needs splitting from the engine to grease the input splines.
So quite a bit to to yet, but nothing too onerous. I hope to have it up and running by the end of May. It's my birthday thereabouts, so it would be a great pressie to myself to be able to ride it then. Fingers crossed 8-)
Laters
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The fuel cap, is a lousy design .
If you rotate the cap until it ratchets, one of these days, it will just start spinning and you won't be able to get it off without a bit of a struggle .
Seems like the cap was designed when a lot of auto fuel caps would ratchet when they were tightened enough, not so on the BMW motorcycle caps, they were never designed to be tightened until they ratchet .
A common fix is to drill a hole in the cap, there are several methods, one is drill a hole in the top of the cap itself and then install a long countersunk screw to lock all of the internal parts together .
Another method is to drill into one of the holes in the threaded area of the cap and then place a pin into the hole to lock everything together .
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Things are a'progressing! I started to rebuild the front end, having stripped cleaned and replaced various parts on the forks and brakes. I have polished up the fork sliders as can be seen in the photo. Well kind of, they actually are shinier than is obvious.
I have stripped out the rear drive and lubed the input spline on the transmission. Easy job really, one that I have never done before, but now I know how easy it is, I will do every year.
One thing which I am not quite clear on is what to do about lubing the final drive splines. The manual states that the spline connection where the drive shaft connects with the final drive should be liberally greased. Howsoever, as far as I can see, this area is lubricated by the final drive oil, so I am not sure why it should be greased as well. Anyone care to enlighten me? In any case, I need to get a new gasket before I can replace the final drive back on to the swingarm.
Other than that, I need to seal the fuel tank and then get the engine running. So, provided the engine fires up with no problems, the big jobs are just about done.
Looking good and really looking forward to getting it back on the road and ridden. Over three and a half years I have not been riding, so I am champing at the bit to get on.
Cheers chaps and chappesses
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...One thing which I am not quite clear on is what to do about lubing the final drive splines. The manual states that the spline connection where the drive shaft connects with the final drive should be liberally greased.
Wow, boycie! When you do a little clean-up, you r-e-a-l-l-y do! Know you're excited about getting the R65 back on the road so do press on.
Regarding your question about drive splines, I think the manual is addressing the splines that mate the final drive to the rear wheel. Note the splines inside the rear wheel hub? These mate with the final drive and are often overlooked during routine maintenance.
Look closely and you'll see how the rear wheel hub splines pass thru a large oil seal as the rear wheel is drawn up during refit.
Honda's Moly 60 is an excellent choice for spline lube. The splines require only a light application as too much lube can sometimes be ejected into the brake shoe area... and as we all know, the rear brakes on the Airheads need all the help we can give 'em.
Monte
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Monte, yep, I have more than a little OCD in me when it comes to such things. I hate dirty bikes. I am currently polishing up the removal engine cases. They wont be shining like the forks legs, but they will be back to bright metal.
Re the spline question, yeah, I thought that might be what is meant. I am reading the CLymer manual as I type. In fact, it states that one should apply molygrease to the final drive (to wheel) splines, and also the drive shaft splines and shows a photograph of said drive shaft with an arrow pointing to the shaft.
Hmm, confused of England!! ::) :-/
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A wee bit of Moly-60 never hurt nuttin'.
Perhaps, in the case of the Clymer instructions, the moly grease is more of a preventative, re-assembly and "dry" start up suggestion... ?
Do with it what makes you feel good. Not wanting to stir the OCD waters too much. ;D
BTW, bachelor buddy at work will wear nothing but plaid shirts, nothing but, ever... Did mention 'bachelor' didn't I?
Monte
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I guess yer right matey. I think I aint gonna worry about it too much. Never greased the splines in question on any of my previous Beemers, so I wont worry too much about it now.
Now then back to shiney shiney!! :D ;D
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WEll, this week I have mostly been trying to get the bloody front brakes back together. Or more specifically, trying to bleed them from top to bottom. Bit of a bugger, I must say!! ::)
I have bled the master cylinder, then the top hose, and then one of the lower hoses. Trouble is, I can't seem to get the fluid to move into the lower hose. It seems as if the pumping of the lever is not actually pushing the fluid through anywhere near as well as I would expect. I don't want to have to spend previous budget money on a vacuum bleeding kit.
ANyone got any ideas, having perhaps done it before? I am reasonably happy that the master cylinder and associated seals are good.
Other than that, I have now got a new seal for the final drive to go back onto the swing arm, then I can get the back wheel back on, then I can clear out the garage, as I am instructed by the wife that I must do so as we are having a garage sale on Sunday. When I asked why we should sell the garage, she just looked at me funny and tutted :D ;D
Next week should see an attempt on getting the motor running. Hurrah!!!, Mind you, just had a though and that is I need to get the tank sealed first. Might have to do that on Saturday. Either waym, its slowly coming together. All being well, I should be able to post some photos soon which show the thing in a greater state of reassembly than is currently the case. I guess there are only so many photos of bits of bike y'all can look at before you all lose the will to live ;D [smiley=Oscar.gif]
Right, off to bed shortly as I am up early tomorrow. See what you can do regarding the brakes, good people [smiley=beerchug.gif]
[smiley=thumbsup.gif]
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ANyone got any ideas, having perhaps done it before? I am reasonably happy that the master cylinder and associated seals are good.
When I had the whole system drained I filled it from the bottom up through the bleed nipple using a large syringe. This worked very well on a single disk system. Twin discs would be more tricky if that's what you've got.
Another good idea when filling a rebuilt system is to push the pistons right back into the calipers to expel as much air as possible before you start.
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When I had the whole system drained I filled it from the bottom up through the bleed nipple using a large syringe. This worked very well on a single disk system.
Thats a good idea, i will try that tonight.
Another good idea when filling a rebuilt system is to push the pistons right back into the calipers to expel as much air as possible before you start.
Done that already, as the system has been rebuilt with new seals in the calipers.
Ta muchly
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Barry wrote on Yesterday at 20:24:
When I had the whole system drained I filled it from the bottom up through the bleed nipple using a large syringe. This worked very well on a single disk system.
Thats a good idea, i will try that tonight
If you do this you may get fluid leakage from around the bleed nipple threads. I had to use a small amount of ptfe thread tape at the top of the threads. It needs to be Kept well away from the nipple seat so as not to get any bits of tape in the system.
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Barry, tried your tip of using a syringe to fill from the bottom up. Worked a treat!! Well, at least it did after I found that the bloody system still wouldn't pressurise, stripped and cleaned the master cylinder and rebuilt that. Simples!! ::)
THe master cylinder just needed a bit of TLC and the brakes are spot on now, especially with the braided hoses fitted. Seem to be really firm and look cool 8-)
Got a few more small jobs done like putting the seat lock back in and getting the final drive back in. Tomorrow looks like it mioght be the day to sort the fuel tank out and seal it.
So far, so good [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
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[Lucky_Lou wrote 10/18/10: John are you trying to start a riot !!!!!! Euro,s ....Euro,s over my dead body]
Lou, sorry it's been taken me so long to apologize—I should know better, having been in both the UK and the Bundesrepublik Deutschland long before either reunification or the Euro! I understand the sensitivity about the currencies, given our own problems with the dollar. :-[
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Here are some photos taken today. THe bike is starting to be rebuilt slowly, and I thought some might like to see the standard I am going for.
I have polished up the casings that I have been able to remove. I haven't gone mad, but I am happy with the result as they look waaaayy batter than the original finish. The contrast can bee seen in the difference between the polished parts and the rest of the casings.
I have rebuilt the front end, as I said, this is the result. Again, polished lowers, nice stainless hoses and cleaned up and rebuilt calipers.
The subframe has been repainted and the rear wheel cleaned up.
Just in the process of cleanign and painting brackets for the rear mud guard and then that can go back on. Then it will start to look like a proper motorcycle again!!
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I've long admired the old-style, rounded, aluminum air filter housing and the "low rider" enrichener lever.
Shiney! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Monte
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Boycie, just one wee thing I noticed that you might change...the pull-out hole at the end of the rear axle should probably be turned to face down a few degrees so that water will not be able to sit in there...a very small point from a very small mechanical mind!
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the pull-out hole at the end of the rear axle should probably be turned to face down a few degrees so that water will not be able to sit in there...a very small point from a very small mechanical mind!
Sue, you are switched on. Hadnt thought of that!!! However, the wheel will all be coming out again to change tyres etc, so I will bear that in mind.
I thank yew!! :)
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Shiny aluminum looks really nice but it's not good to polish heat radiating surfaces. It lowers the transfer of the heat to the air because when you shine it you are reducing the surface area of the metal by removing the microscopic pitting. Fins on your heads should be left as cast,those wily germans could have made them shiny. But by casting the fins with a coarser casting sand it increases the heat transfer factor.
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Point take. The fins will remain unshined. In fact, what you can see polished is about as far as I can go anyway. The rocker box covers will be brightened up, but that will be about it.
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Boycie,
Lovely job you are doing on your bike, gives me a target to aspire to, :).
I just collected my 80 R65 this weekend, so similar vinatge, though I have the flat top bings, so mine is probably slightly older, I checked my frame no. at "http://bmbikes.co.uk/chassispages/enginechassis650.htm" to confirm her manufacture date as 02/80.
Can I ask about your rear tyre, mine is looking rather sad, and your new one looks the biz, What did you go for?, did your bike have tubed tires and were you able to go tubeless?
Cheers
Mike
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Can I ask about your rear tyre, mine is looking rather sad, and your new one looks the biz, What did you go for?, did your bike have tubed tires and were you able to go tubeless?
Mike, believe it or not, the rear tyre is actually the second tyre ever fitted to the bike. It was fitted probably around 1982 or thereabouts!!! The front tyre is the original, and therefore 31 years old! They are both in better condition that some tyres I have seen that are only one or two years old.
Both tyres are Metzeler ME 99 or thereabouts. I will be changing them shortly, though. Although there is plenty of tread on them, I aint about to trust them, given their age. I will probably be getting new ones from Motorworks in Huddersfield as t hey seem to be the best price and have reasonable choice. The problem that we have is that the wheel sizes are also 31 years old, and the tyre choice is a bit limited.
Going onpast experience, the bike is likely to be quite sensitive to tyre choice. I have owned two R80 airheads, a R1150 GS and a K100RTS in the past, all of which were tyre sensitive. With the airhead, I generally stuck with Metzelers and Continentals.
As far as tubed or tubeless is concerned, the rims were designed to be tubed, as far as I am aware, so I will continue to fit them. From reading this forum, I do believe there are peeps who have gone tubeless with little or no problems. I, however, am quite happy to continue with tubes.
Thanks for the compliment on the rebuild. It isn't going to be concours, it is not that clean. However, it is fundamentally in great nick, and I intend to use it every day for commuting. BMWs are designed to be ridden and that it was I will do. That said, I do like a clean bike, and I enjoy cleaning up the bits that you can't usually see, with a toothbrush, just to I know they are clean!!! As alluded to in an earlier post, I am partial to a bit of OCD when it comes to clean bikes. ;D I remember a very dear girlfriend of many, many years ago, cleaning up the chrome silencers on my old Suzuki 550 with a rag and Solvol. Now THAT was love!!!! :D ;D
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Mike, believe it or not, the rear tyre is actually the second tyre ever fitted to the bike. It was fitted probably around 1982 or thereabouts!!! The front tyre is the original, and therefore 31 years old! They are both in better condition that some tyres I have seen that are only one or two years old.
Wow that is hard to believe, they do look like new rubber, I might order from Motorworks myself, I find them pretty good also.
No chance getting my wife to clean any part of my bikes, she's been complaining since the R arrived, that she's become a "motorcycle widow", ;)
Mike
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Well, after a small drama, about the brakes, detailed in the technical section, I have got the engine filled up with fresh oil and filter this evening and for the first time in a lot of years, got it turning over, albeit on the starter motor. Oil pressure is good, so thats a relief.
I did want to actually get it running, but need some more fuel. So, Saturday is the day when I try to get it at least running. Once that has happened, I can start to tune it properly.
I got the tank and seat on, and it is really starting to come together.
Nearly there!! ;D
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:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;
It's ALIVE, I tell you, Alive!!!!! [smiley=thumbsup.gif] [smiley=thumbsup.gif] [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Sorry, must compose myself :)
The Beemer started today for the first time in several years. It needs a small bit of tuning, as th cables have been disturbed, but the carb settings are very close to spot on. It idles smoothly and well, and sounds excellent.
I inivited my wife, mother-in-law, and olderst daughter to witness it, and my wife had a tear in her eye!! My mother-in-law loves it, as it reminds her of years gone past when her late husband used to have all sorts of british bikes. She said it sounds like a motorbike should.
I am so pleased.
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Congratulations Boycie, great when a plan comes together, your patient and methodical work has a lot to do with it, as well as the tough durability of these bikes.
8-)
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Congrats, boycie!! Feels so good, doesn't it? ;D
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Feels so good, doesn't it?
Certainly does, chap.
I am just in the process of sorting out some more funding, then the job can be (hopefully) finished in the next month or so. I will post up some more photos when it is back together.
Cheers peeps
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We're nearly there!!! today, I got a new brake light switch which I need to fit before I could rebuild the headlight carrier and fit the fairing. I have dry fitted the fairing which is a Rickman Polaris. It needs some small adjustment, but not a problem.
The best bit is that I got to ride it!!!! [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif] [smiley=clap.gif] [smiley=clap.gif]
Well, for about twenty yards and back again, 'cos the pavement ran out!!! Got it into second gear though!! First time it has been ridden since 1985. A momentous moment, methinks. I now have to sort out some new bolts for the fairing fitment, and paint the other pannier, get the new tyres fitted, get the MOT test booked and passed, and we are rocking and rolling!!
I will get some photos done over the weekend of it in its finished glory. I am sooooo pleased with it, and its gonna be great to ride this.
Cheers peeps
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Tada!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Its finished, people!!! ;D [smiley=clap.gif] [smiley=clap.gif] [smiley=clap.gif] [smiley=clap.gif]
After about two months of sweat, polish and skinned knuckles, I have done it!!! And I am soooooo pleased with the result. It has turned out just as I wanted. Bearing in mind, I intend to use this for commuting and general having motorcycling fun, I have not gone for an absolutely showroom finish.
The panniers were made by my Dad and I have simply resprayed them, as they were quite yellowed, and I think they look good, (in a 1980's retro way!)
The fairing was a bit of a bugger to re-fit, as it needed realigning to prevent the clocks rubbing, but we got there in the end. I need to get some different allen head bolts for the fairing lowers, but, it will do for the time being.
What do you think everyone?
Phil
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Compliments to your Dad.......those are fine looking cases!!!!
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Thanks you very much! Dad used to be a teacher of what was called technical studies over here, and he built a lot of fibreglass stuff. Canoes, panniers, he also ran a schools kart race team and the kids used to build the karts, incluyding welding the chassis together and various othyer stuff.
Eventually, I intent to replace the panniers with something a little larger, but for now, they will do well and I am quite happy with them.
The air horns that can been seen on one of the photos are bleeding loud!!! I made the mistake of testing them without thinking and thyey damn near made me ears bleed!! :-[ ;D
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You can't have a horn that's too loud in my opinion .
The more you sound like a train locomotive, the less likely you'll get run over !!!!
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Good job, all around!
I bet it sounds as impressive as it looks!
[smiley=thumbsup.gif]
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It does sound good, I must admit. The Keihin silencers have a bit of a rort to them when the throttle is given some wellie!!!
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Lovely job, I bet its super quiet behind that fairing, that probably makes the air horns sound even louder :), enjoy
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Right, this is the last installment in the great rebuild epic!!
Today, I got the bike MOT'd. Took it to a place in my home town. The guy wot did the testing was a real nice bloke, a biker and knew his onions. He is actually a Dynotesting engineer as well, and spent a happy hour nattering about things biking. He was well impressed with the bike, and looked at the minimum, sayting that he could tell that the bike had been done properly. I took that as a compliment.
He was more than happy to have me involved in the test. Mind you, he tested the horn himself, and regretted it to begin with!! He was sat on the bike, and hadn't noticed the twin air horns. When he hit the button, I swear there was clear air between his a;'*s and teh seat!!! It was bloody funny. Mind you, he then decided that it need some more testing, to the dismay of the other mehcanics in the workshop, whose ears started bleeding, I think ;D
THe bike sailed though, and so this afternoon, I have taken it out for a proper shakedown ride. What a cracking little bike!!! It is a hoot to ride! :D
I am used to bigger airheads, and the last bike I had was an oilhead GS, so this thing feels like a racebike in comparison, in terms of its size and the engine feel. It certainly revs faster and higher. The handling is pretty good (for a 1980 twin with the original rear shocks). In fact, given the age of the shocks, I am impressed at how planted the ride is. Not like a modern bike obviously, but still totally acceptable as far as I am concerned.
I took it over to my Dads, who as I have said before was the owner of the bike before he gave it to me last year. He was chuffed to bits and really pleased to see it rebuilt and back ridden again. I think he almost had a tear in his eye!! He is not one for outward emotions!!!
It isn't leaking any oil, all the nuts and bolts are still in place, so here's to getting some miles on it. I haven't ridden a bike for nearly four years, so it is like coming home!!! What is it about bikes that we love so much?? :) I have ridden for nearly forty years now, and I still get as much enjoyment out of riding as I did the first time my bro-in-law gave me my first bike to thrash around the local fields on when I were a lad. I have so enjoyed this rebuild, and I am really proud if the result.
Anyway, thanks for listening peeps, ity's been great to share my experiences with y'all, I will be checking in regularly. Good site this!!
Cheers
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We all like happy endings.....well done
Lou
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Cheers Lou. I dunno which part of Yorkshire you are in, but eventually, you can expect to see this bike up there as well. I and my family are planning to move back up to West/North Yorks in the next couple of years, all being well. My wife and her family come from Kieghley way, and want to go home! So the bike will be coming with us.
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Im near J39 M1 close to some nice rides, if your moving back Keighley way you will also be close to some great country too but beware of the plod they have some unmarked S1000RR,s to catch the unaware up these ways now.
Itll be nice to chew the fat.
Lou