The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
General Category => Chit-Chat => Topic started by: scotty_b on October 13, 2007, 08:35:14 PM
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My name is Scott, long time air cooled VW and Porsche guy ( restoration for a living ). I just got a 78 R65 and am in the process of doing a "cafe" conversion. I use quotes because it will be my version of a cafe. When I got the bike it ran....o.k. but needed some work. After a carb rebuild it ran MUCH better, but still not purrrrrrrfect. Adjusted the valves the other day and am wondering about the specs I found on the internet. Initially my valves had NO lash intake or exhaust and surprisingly the bike ran great. I re-adjusted to the "specified" .006 and .010 with no real differecne but know I hear spark knock. WTF ? Were the dimensions I found off?
Another ? has to do with the carb adjustment. I synched the two and have my screw almost all the way in. Idle adjuster is not even touching the tang and the bike idles WAYY to high. No cable bind. Runs great once you get on it but take off from a stop is tricky as it bogs down pretty good until throttle is over half open.
Thanks much
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as purchased
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the "holy" R90 tank I also got for free
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uncoverd the hole and began repair
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Some of my parts for the conversion laid out
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beginning of the seat pan and rear fairing
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bottom peice with the edge folded over and roughed in. Final smoothing still to be done. Not seen in the pics are the clubman bars I changed to. Initially I put a set of drag bars on but they were to short
for the brake hardware to clear the tripple. I ended up liking the clubmans better anyway 8-). I have been riding the bike around the neighborhood lately with no seat and am amazed at how much more comfortable I feel on it. Once I finish with the cafe seat I won't be sitting much off the frame anyway ;) After owning a 83 Yamaha Seca and a 97 Honda Magna I must say the R65 is a better handling bike just needs a little more OOMPH! I think I'll be keeping this one though!
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I would suspect an air/vacuum leak downstream of the carbs as vacuum leaks will usually cause a high idle condition. Another common cause is the mechanical advance mechanism being frozen in a partially advanced condition.
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I agree with Justin's suggestions. Also, did you check the timing at idle and at 4000 RPM (
should be at full advance by then) ? It is very possible that the points need some attention, if you haven't already
gone in there.
don't try to run it too lean - that can cause the stumbling off idle, but if there is an air/vacuum leak
in some of the rubber/plastic parts from the carbs to the head that could also exhibit symptoms
like this.
Welcome aboard !
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Are you sure your cables are fully releasing the throttles? Nothing to do with binding, but bet you that's why the throttle screws aren't touching the tangs and giving way high uncontrollable idle. Make sure the springs will pull the butterfly shaft back to stops, as unless the butterflys are fully closed, the idle circuit can't come into operation.
The carbs are adjusted at idle, and then the cables are adjusted for equal pull, two separate tuning procedures.
Bill.........................;-)
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Haven't checked the points yet, trying to get mechanicals sorted out and at the same time do the body work is making progress on both a bit slow. Not to mention working 6 days a week :o
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Thought I'd do a little update.Running issues have been sorted out. Wiring harness removed to make a new simpler harness. Seat pan and rear fairing have been roughed out. I have decided to remake the pan as I felt it looked to long and to tall, once I set it one the bike.
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Disregard the wavy line on the pan. I had intended to cut it up higher once finished but have since decided when I remake it to actually make the outer lip LOWER than in the first one.
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Here you can see how much I lowerd the fairing and the little bit I shortend the whole piece
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one more from the front side. Next step is to "fine tune" the two fairing pieces and remake the pan. Then weld it all together and finish it out !!
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Oops
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It looks like it's coming along nicely. Good form dictates you let everybody know what your "running" issue turned out to be. In fact, I may make that a forum "law"...
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Looks like fun stuff, Scotty-b. Have you seen this forum?
http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/index.php
Sigh, more stuff to learn.
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thanks guys. And yes I lived at metal shapers/metal meet for a while. Couldn't get enough of it. The running issue turned out to be a couple of issues but the main thing was my throttle cables were to short and weren't allowing the linkage to return fully. This was an issue due to the clubman bars being lower AND further outward. I managed to slide the housing up a little further on the bar to allow some needed slack. I also tweeked the adjustment screws until it sounded and felt about right. All I have to adjust with is a Unisyn so I got them pretty darn close :-? with it.
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Lookin' really good.
Thanks for the progress reports.
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Scott_b!
I am impressed! Cool cafe. Wish I could do that. I'd tap out a 7-8gallon tank for the BSA Firebird.
Love the Macadams but for a Cafe I would go with V-rated Avons RoadRiders. 8-)
http://www.avon-tyres.co.uk/motorcycle/?page=tyres&method=showspecs&id=6
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It looks like it's coming along nicely. Good form dictates you let everybody know what your "running" issue turned out to be. In fact, I may make that a forum "law"...
Huh? :o
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That is going to be a sweet looking '65 Scott :) wish I could build myself seat unit for the bimbo.
Cheers
Tony
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Not wanting to change the subject. But...
Avon's?
I'm choosing to go with Bridgestone BatlAx or Dunlop GT501.
Think it'll be GT.
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R90 tanks are 6 gallon (5 and 1/2 and then reserve?) I like the bigger tank. How are you going to attach the rear of the tank to the frame? I'd like to see that solution!
TTFN,
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No problem. I'll make a simple bracket and weld it to the frame. As for the front. I'm going to have to cut the stock R65 bar off and move it up about an inch as the R 90 tank sits a bit higher in the front. FYI the "C"on the front of the tank is also a bit narrower than the R65's. Coils are also going to have to be re-located due to the depth of the R90 tank. All in a days work :) Christmas week should yield a good bit of progress as I am taking it off to work on some personal projects. This bike, my dads Jeep, and my 944 are in the plans.
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Well Christmas week was pretty much a bust as I was ;aid up in bed popping pills and nursing a heating pad all week.The only thing I have gotten done was to make the tank mount up. rear mount is pretty self explanatory. As for the front mount, it had to be moved up on the frame about 1/2 inch and narrowed close to 3/4 of an inch. Wiring harness will be the next big obstacle. I have the R65 harness removed and tagged and I also have a 75/5 harness tagged. I will be making a very simple fused harness from the 2.
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;)
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:o
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8-)
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Looking good, I always thought that it shouldn't be too hard to put a bigger tank on. As far as your coils, is there not enough room to mount a dual unit (the Dyna is pretty compact) forward as it seems I remember the tank being clearanced where the brake master cylinder sits.
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I don't know how big, or what shape the Dyna is, so it may fit on the frame towards the front of the tank. I actually am thinking about mounting the coils in plain view. One on each side under the seat. I don't mind mechanical portions being seen as long as they look appropriate in their location. Time will tell [smiley=beatnik.gif]
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Wow almost 3 years now eh ?? Embarassing :-/ Anyway, after 3 attempts at making the seat/rear fairing I finally decided to take a class from a metal shaping guru and get it done right. Since this is what I do for a living I could more easily justify the cost, plus it was a tax writeoff ;) I ALMOST got the steel one done, I just have some minor fitment and welding left to do. I am not happy with how the tailight turned out. My original plan couldn't come to fruition due to the metal being stretched almost to it's limit. I wanted a greater slope in the rear and to have the talight only about 1/2 recessed ( see pic with wooden buck) The aluminum one will be finished as I find time and will NOT have the tailight recessed at all, I will also rivet it together instead of welding it. I think it will look a lot better that way.