The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: redzap on March 18, 2008, 07:42:32 PM
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Brain cramp time! Having adjusted valves a few times, I feel stupid asking this question but will do so in the service of not spending too much time staring at the valves in wonderment. Two questions: 1) If I am to loosen and re-tighten six cylinder head nuts, are we talking about the four rocker arm nuts and the two locking nuts on the adjusting arm? Otherwise, I am not seeing six nuts. 2) If I am adjusting the two rocker arms, there is a locking nut and an adjusting nut. It seems if I play with them (loosen or tighten) too much, it is very difficult to get them in adjustment mode. What am I doing wrong? Please dumb it down for me...thanks!
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Look at 12-o'clock and 6-o'clock.
These two nuts fasten the head to the cylinder, only.
The other four are on the rocker arm towers, as you already know.
Tighten them in a criss-cross pattern, much like putting a wheel on a car.
They are to be tightened in 3 stages. It is in the owners handbook (underseat size), if you have one (you should).
From Sue's extensive thread titled Condition of LRB's Valves!!!!, Reply #48:
[size=14]"13. Torque up the nuts in steps just like our owners manual says. (11, 18 then final 25 foot pounds) DO NOT EXCEED 25 ft. lbs.!!"[/size]
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I hope below is one of the best articles for you to read about valve setting: it is Snowbum's:
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/setvalves.htm
The fellows can suggest other ones but as Rob says the underseat Owners manual is really good instruction. If you WANT more info and more than anyone could possibly need for future reference please read Snowbum's article above if you wish.
The setting job can be quite finicky as the precise setting you are happy with has a tendency to tighten up while you do up the lock nut...just keep persevering.
Oh yeah, next time you check your valves don't be like me and start resetting them BEFORE you check them...they could be right on spec. But if they are OR aren't you must record what they ARE at. Then the figures will become your reference point for CHANGE!! It is CHANGE from Spec that we need to keep an eye on! Gee how do I know this....saved my LS from certain disaster!
I hope I am not being pedantic here but it is impt.
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When you have the adjustment where you want it, when you tighten the 'jamnut' on the valve adjuster, you have to hold the adjuster while you tighten the 'jamnut' , if you don't, it will cause the adjuster to move slightly, and then your valve clearance will be off.
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Thanks! I'll wade through Snowbum's article and see if I can do this correctly. I'll let you know how it goes, eh?
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Have fun eh? ;D ::)
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Thanks! I'll wade through Snowbum's article and see if I can do this correctly. I'll let you know how it goes, eh?
"Wade"? Sounds like you've read his stuff before! ;D He's not willing to just write a one two three how to article, he insists that you understand what you're doing.
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Oh yes, I couldn't have said it better myself. Having waded through the article, I am now more confused than ever. I will now refer back to the handbook and Parkhouse's article for an organized primer on valve adjustment.
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I personally don't go over 20 lb/ft on the head torque...
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Zoom, zoom. Well, I figured it out thanks to you all. Runs like a champ after about a 75 mile test run today in tropical Montana. The configuration of the cylinder head nuts put my brain in a cramp as I was looking at the lock nuts like they were part of that configuration. Duh. So I pushed the rocker arms in, adjusted the valves and away I go. Thanks for your help!
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The small rider's manual (the one that sells for $20 and fits under the seat) has a wonderful picture of the head with the cover removed, showing the six nuts in all their glory.
If I owned a motel, there would be a R65 Riders Manual in every room... ::)
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So... instead of "Gideon's" good book one would find the "Valdezian's" ?!? ;)