The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Rob Valdez 79 R65 on March 08, 2008, 06:55:02 PM
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I am sure that my forks need service. I have never done this before.
Here is the RealOEM diagram with link to their website (click on the picture):
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fupload.pbase.com%2Fimage%2F93926546.jpg&hash=bb3f07e41d3439baa103f6ca9bfff9867d4ec6d8) (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0363&mospid=47851&btnr=31_0297&hg=31&fg=10)
I have looked at thrang's website (http://www.thrang.freeserve.co.uk/uprating.htm) with some information.
Can anyone tell me which of these parts are rubber, and will most likely need replaced?
And if there are any metal bits that might need replacing, also? It is always nice to have as many parts on hand before tearing down the bike!
Also, with 87,000 miles, I should consider new springs? OEM or aftermarket?
Thanks.
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Rob,
You've got gaiters, so the only rubber parts you need is #2 the fork seal, it's not shown in your picture, but there is an o-ring on the cap or plug at the top of the fork as well, and #16 a crush washer for the bottom bolt that holds the damper assembly in place, and a crush washer for the drain bolt, if you are going to remove it.
There is a wire circlip that holds the cap or plug in the top of the fork tube, may want to take a look at them, and see if they are rusted and in need of repalcement as well.
How's the condition of the 'dust caps' at the top of the forks?
I've got progressive springs, and it brought the front end of the bike up a bit, and it 'feels' better when riding.
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Thanks, Bob. The "condition" of the dust caps is non-existent. I don't know when they went away. I will be replacing them.
I like the idea of replacing the spring clips. I am sure most of these parts do not have expense worth worrying about.
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I believe #24 is a thick white rubber object, sort of a little shock absorber. Yours may be worn out but you replace them at the same time as the rest of the O-rings and crush washers.
I saw no need to take apart the damper assembly, especially as that top bolt is supposedly held in with red loctite. I just cleaned all that stuff up.
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I dis-assembled the damper assembly with no problems what so ever.
At least on my bike there were no rubber parts in the damper assembly, only metal parts.
About 2.5 hours of work for both forks, after the forks are removed from the bike.
I was amazed how much 'crud' was inside of the fork assembly, and that is with replacing the fork oil every year.
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Hey Bob, I forgot to ask: why did you take apart the damper assembly? It's easy to clean up without doing that.
My feelings are hurt because it looks like Rob didn't take my word for replacing that number 24 part.... I saw his post on Boxerworks.
;)
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Ed,
I took the damper assembly completly apart, it wasn't difficult, just don't take both apart at the same time, so you have a reference if you forget how it goes back together.
I'm glad I did, as there was more of an accumulation of 'crude' in there than I was expecting, with replacing the fork oil just about every year.
When I replaced the seals the first time back in '90 or '91, I just used a couple of cans of non-chlorinated brake cleaner, I didn't dis-assemble them all the way.
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Wow, Ed, it is a good thing I saw you wink before I replied.
I sure didn't mean to hurt your feelings, but funholiday (a regular poster on the Boxerworks forum) has a lot of knowledge about these bikes, and I like to "check all my references", so to speak.
And FH needs all the friends he can get, too. (don't we all?)