The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
General Category => Chit-Chat => Topic started by: stockman on July 08, 2009, 10:51:29 PM
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Happy to have found this site. Just bought an 83 R65 with 14,300 miles. Rode it home about 60 miles . Made it despite some rain. Ran nice for something not used for 5 years. This weekend I will change all the fluids that I know how to do. Not sure of the tyranny but I,m sure someone will tell me. Was surprised to get the front brake bleeder open tonight .
The paint on the Tank is in great shape and the windshield is also nice. I'm looking forward to learning more and working on bringing this back to good order not perfect but fun to ride.
My other daily driver is the terrific Suzuki Vstrom 650. Love this machine. :)
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Windshield? Did it have some accessories?
What color?
If you don't mind me asking (if you do sorry...), what did you pay for it?
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The gearbox fill opening is just above the shifter shaft. Remove the plug using a honkin' big Allen wrench -don't recall the size right now- then fill until the gear lube dribbles out the fill hole.
Some R65ers like synthetic gear lube and others stick with dino. Wait for it... some will chime in with good reasons for either. ;)
Welcome to our expanding R65 group. This is rapidly become the epicenter of R65 knowledge, skill building and fun. We don't like no flamers 'round these parts as we've all been newbies before. [smiley=thumbup.gif]
Monte There Ain't No Dumb Questions Miller
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Congrats on the new bike. Post us a picture so we can all be envious.
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bet you were grinning from ear to ear on the ride home ;)....mate asap post some pics :)
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Welcome to the forum stockman.
Not sure of the tyranny but I,m sure someone will tell me.
Like Monte says the tranny fill is right above the shift lever, however he neglected to tell you that the tranny drain is on the bottom of the tranny right in front of the swing arm. A word to the wise, don't drain the tranny until you are sure you can get the filler hole open. I had to use an 8mm ball end socket with a BA cheater bar to open mine.
I've always admired the v-strom, send some pix of both bikes when you can.
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Some R65ers like synthetic gear lube and others stick with dino. Wait for it... some will chime in with good reasons for either. ;)
[smiley=thumbup.gif]
Monte There Ain't No Dumb Questions Miller
On that, I saw in another post that putting in synthetic gear oil can cause the rubber pieces to seep. That right there negates any possible advantage that synthetic has in my mind. But the question is, if you change all the rubber parts, is it then OK to run synthetic? If that's the case, then it becomes a real synthetic vs. dino debate for me. It's probably not a big deal either way though...
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One school of thought runs - The synthetic oil does such a good job at cleaning internals that some of the vintage seals in the airheads may begin to weep.
Another comment - ...switched back to dino after running the synthetic and the weepys stopped.
Personally, I run dino in the engine and shaft areas but synthetic in the gearbox. Anything to keep that traditionally clunky shifting Beemer box working as smoothly as possible. You really do have to train up your left foot.
Monte
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Thanks for all the good information. I' sticking with conventional fluids . I change the brake fluid when I got home from work that helped the front brake. I will take some scotch bright to the rotor and clean it up a little. The fork seals are leaking as is the left rear shock. So I will have to do that as soon as I can. It rides a little wobbly I'm not sure if its the front forks or the type of tires or what. The tires are a little dry and the rear is cupped on the left side some, but I'll let that go until I get the forks and shocks repaired. I've got a book coming from the library and a bid on one on e-bay . I'm being cheap. What weight gear oil should I use 75-90 for both the rear and the tranny? I Will get some pics up this week end.
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FWIW, consider discarding the rear shocks in the rebuild. They never were very good even when new. I bought some Hagon shocks and couldn't believe the difference when I installed them. Much improved handling.
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Can you tell me if I should buy the fork seals and brake pads from BMW or are they available aftermarket? Oh and here are some pictures .http://picasaweb.google.com/jimreinhardt/BMWR65#.
I've got all the fluids done and its running nice and shifting better. The rear end fluid was kind of red must have been moisture.Are you supposed to fill the rear thru the small level hole or the on on top forward of the vent?
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Fork seals are most likely going to be a BMW parts source (dealer, or online), you may be able to cross reference them to a non-BMW source, but it would take some work on your part .
Brake pads are available from a number of motorcycle parts stores and from different manufacturers .
The final drive is filled up to the point it starts running out of the small plug hole at the back of the final drive housing .
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Bob, I knew to fill it up to the small hole in the back but is that also the traditional fill hole or do you use the one forward of the breather hole on top to fill? It looks to be larger. It took a while to fill using the level hole and the piece of tubing I used was as big an O.D. as was the hole I.D. and I over filled it as it was plugged by the tube.
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I use the top vent as the fill port, alot easier to get the gear lube in, than the small 'overflow' port . .
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Can you tell me if I should buy the fork seals and brake pads from BMW or are they available aftermarket?
Fork seals ought to be available through a local bearing supply house. Here's the size and, if needed, the BMW part number:
36x46x7.3/8.8 BMW #31 42 1 230 001
Take your removed seal with you to the bearing house. Usually, the seal's dimensions are cast onto the seal's face. Make sure you get the same size.
Unless you're running fork gaiters, I'd suggest ordering new felts, too. These are BMW specific parts. They fit inside the rubber lower slider caps and help keep junk out of the damper assembly... usually.
Monte
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... It rides a little wobbly I'm not sure if its the front forks or the type of tires or what. The tires are a little dry and the rear is cupped on the left side...
Consider checking the rear wheel bearings. They are tapered roller bearings and required a preload adjustment. If the PO was fond of high-pressure car wash baths for the bike, he may have washed out grease from the rear wheel bearings. The bearing seals are notorious leakers at the 50-cent car wash. The cupped tire could indicate loss of bearings. The rear shocks do not appear to be OE parts. IIRC, the originals had a built in handle for preload adjustments.
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thanks everyone bob, Montmil. I'm having fun with this. I've ridden ti about 130 miles so far after changing all the gear, engine fluids but I have to stop and repack the wheel bearings steering head and do the forks. It only has 14,300 miles on it but I'm sure there was no regular maintenance done in the 26 years. Thanks again for the info.
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Congratulations on the new R65! Welcome aboard!
I believe the original factory service manuals are still available and are well worth the money.
Try www.realoem.com with the last seven digits of your VIN. You'll be amazed at the parts that can still be ordered through your local dealer or several discount BMW parts suppliers such as Chicago BMW www.chicagobmwmotorcycle.com
Enjoy!
Ed
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Welcome Stockman!
Congrats on the new purchase - but me-thinks the odo may have been around once before. However....enjoy, and as has already been pointed out several times, please post piccies - we love to look at new machines and be somewhat envious. :)
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You are the only one to suggest that. But if you saw the pictures which I posted a link to earlier in this thread you might agree. All the numbers match , the seat, tank, and BMW windshield are in great shape. I also have a key chain from a Boston BMW dealer and remember this is New England where the riding season is much shorter than elsewhere in the U.S.
Tonight using the book I pickup up at the local library(which by the way was untouched shows how many Airheads there are around here) I took the front brake pads out (removing the sticky spider web first) and they looked good about 3/16"thick both even. I put them on a piece of plate and smoothed them out a little with some emery paper. it now stops smoother without the pulsing as bad. But with the forks diving like they are its still not good. I will get the parts to work on those forks this week if I can. To be continued.
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R65 update. I have changed all the fluids.Today I changed the fork oil and installed the new Hagon shocks. Had to wait until my in laws left to finish but I just came back from a short ride and WOW what a difference -no more wobbles takes the bumps nice and straight. Also saw a really nice Doe crossing the road real slow, those extra 6" lights work great.
Tomorrow I'm going to take that caliper apart and see if I can make it work better. I also need to get the correct size battery, the thing thats in there sits a top the battery plate not inside it .Then I will take it for a longer ride. Any tips about the Brakes would be appreciated. Thanks in advance if you do.
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What exactly is your brake issue ?
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When stopping it rolls on and off like a warped rotor. I don't have a dial indicator to check the run out but I can see the rotor has a twist to it. so that must be it. But also I wanted to make sure both pistons are moving. The pads seem to be worn evenly but by sight I can't detect them both moving against the rotor. I'm also used to the brakes on my Vstrom which are 26 years better. My last BMW had ABS and were just like power brakes on a car as it had a pump to assist(very complicated and (expensive) one reason I don' have it any more. It was an R1200clc. This R65 is what I really wanted in the first place. But anyway what do you think?
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Sounds like a rotor problem, but it's not a common occurrence, I wonder if it was damaged during a tire replacement ?
I don't know of anybody that 'resurfaces' stainless rotors, so you may be looking at a replacement .
I replaced my OEM stainless rotors with EBC semi-floating steel rotors, and along with EBC graphite pads, the wet braking was dramatically improved .
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Should you decide to replace the front brake rotor disc, check in with Mark and/or Marco at Re-Psycle in Ohio. They may be able to provide you with a lightly used part at a very fair price. I use 'em and I like 'em. Monte
http://re-psycle.com/
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Great suggestions. Its a really nice day here so i think I'm going to ride it anyway today. I think you are right its the rotor. Thanks
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Oh yeah montmil , I remember Denton we would go there for something when i was a kid we lived in University Park until 1968 then moved to DC. My sisters who are older still live in TX-- Houston and Padre Island. I should make a trip there our Daughter lives in Austin but I'm too content with staying home and playing with the bikes/ fixin stuff.
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Montmil: <I believe the original factory service manuals are still available and are well worth the money.>
+1, Monte; I've decided to spring for one.
Does anyone know the BMW part no. for a 1981 R65? (I'm assuming that the manual editions break down into major, such as 1979-80, 1981-84, etc.) Not having the part no., I can't figure out how to find the realoem listing by topic heading. (Doesn't fit any functional heading in the oem menu.)
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The part number for an original owners manual is :01 41 9 798 291 .
That is supposedly for the entire dual shock model R65 North American version .
I have an early '81 R65 (9th off of the production line for that model year) , and my bike came with a manual specifically for the bikes with contact breaker ignition, not for the electronic ignition ignition bikes that started with the '81 year production .
I went out to my '81 R65, and here is the owners manual for the '79-80 year bikes : 01 41 9 798 098 .
I know there is an LS specific version manual as well, have to wait until I get home from work, to post that part number .
The chapter number is 01, and it isn't shown for the dual shock R65's, if you check realOEM for the mono-shock R65's, chapter 01 (Technical Literature) does come up .
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Thanks, Bob. What Monte referred to, and what I'm now looking for, is the factory service manual. After much searching I finally got my hands on the original owner's manual. JT
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The part number for the OEM BMW R65 service manual is :01 51 9 798 092 .
There's one on eBay right now, current bid price $29US, and $13 shipping .
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Thanks, Bob.
John
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Update. Tonight I did the steering head bearing cleaning and repacking . What a difference, now it turns smoothly. That's the way it should be. The bottom bearing was hardly turning. I just have to put the windshield bracket back on I forgot and went too far on the reassembly and will have to take a few bolts off then put the bracket on. Good practice Really having fun with this bike.