The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
General Category => Chit-Chat => Topic started by: MrRiden on February 24, 2008, 06:52:19 PM
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I'd like to pick up one of those oil dipstick thermometers but the only one I can find is more than $80, a bit steep to me. I've even checked out some industrial supply houses and with a simple machined adapter cap [calling Justin] it would be cheaper. Anyone seen one of these ready to install for a reasonable price?
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.eurotechmotorsports.com%2Fdetails%2Fimages%2FSTD%2F30100.jpg&hash=9de30b5113cbf55a48bfc959f5f6621085fe3df6)
rich
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I installed a Luftmeister temp indicating dipstick in 1990, it will surprise you, on how hot the R65 engine runs in the desert heat Rich !!!
I'm not so sure how accurate the reading is, because when the engine is running, my best guess would be, that the only oil that gets on the dipstick would be 'splash' oil, not oil sitting in the sump, and whether or not it would make a difference on a 'true' temp reading on how hot the oil is.
As far as price, you're probably not going to find anything for a less costly price, I paid $90 for mine 18 years ago.
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Rich.......where did you find that one??
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Rich.......where did you find that one??
Eurotech has them available at http://www.eurotechmotorsports.com/forms/MyBike.cfm?do=detail&q_part=30100
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If you do decide to use the indicating dipstick, make sure to check the oil level marks on the new dipstick, as compared to the OEM dipstick markings.
The Luftmeister dipstick markings weren't even close to the OEM dipstick.
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I'm running a Wunderlich dipstick temperature gauge on my R65 similar to the one pictured. It has never gone over 120deg C even in stop-go traffic in Oz summer. Unfortunately, I only have one eye and the right hand side one at that, so looking at the temp on the run means I have to lean precariously over to the left, so I only check it when stopped.
I've installed pod mounted oil temp/pressure gauges on my project R90/6. I toyed with installing the temperature sender in the sump plug, but decided to try something different due to advice the upper oil level is the hottest. I modified the stock metal dipstick so that a VDO dipstick sender runs along the original dipstick and exits the screw cap. It needed shortening, but it wasn't an issue as the sensing element is at the end, and the rest is just a tube with a silicon insulated wire running up the middle. The sensing element is about 10mm lower than the dipstick and just stops short of the oil pump pickup, so will always be in oil. I'll have a quick connect for the wiring so I can always easily check the level.
I'll take pics soon pf the construction process and finished product and post if anyone is interested.
Bill............................;-)
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Well of course we are interested!
Especially if it has pictures! [smiley=1drink.gif]
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Seems like he would know the answer to questions like that by now! [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif]
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A bought dipstick for my r45 in Austrian Louis store. It costed only 20€. Readings are accurate bit it has not got oil level marks.
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Just as a matter of interest - what readings do you get on the guage during hot / "normal"/ cold riding conditions ?
Regards
Danie
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On a hot summer day with bike fully loaded 115deg C. Wintertime 80deg C. Normal country ride betwen 90-100deg C. Driving on a highway or long steep hill warms oil in engine to 110deg C.
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A bought dipstick for my r45 in Austrian Louis store. It costed only 20€. Readings are accurate bit it has not got oil level marks.
That looks a lot like some of the industrial supply units I have looked at but with an adapter to fit the threaded dipstick hole. Hmmm. Can you provide any more information on the store?
rich
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www.louis.de German name for dipstick temperature gauge is oeltemperaturanzeiger.
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Even with shipping and customs it still comes out a bit less. thanks ciciban I'll give this a try!
rich
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I talked about putting an oil cooler on my r65 awhile back on this forum and have now got some of the parts ordered. But I wanted to show you the digital oil temp/clock I put on the bike. It is a meat thermometer with a real nice remote sensor that I JB welded to the side of the oil pan. It reads very accurate. I compared the measurement to my portable infra red meter. It also has an alarm you can set to go off if the oil gets too hot for you. Best part it only costs $9.99 with free shipping? :o Here is the link: http://www.indoorhealthproducts.com/912.htm
Jerry
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I tried something similar with a remote temp sensor/voltage monitor from Radio Shack, it worked great, until hot weather, then the LCD 'washed out' in air temps of 100 F. or above
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We'll see how it holds up this summer. Mainly I want to see how well the oil cooler will keep temps down.
Jerry
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Using the Luftmeister dipstick indications, I saw a 50-75 F. temperature decrease after installing the BMW oilcooler kit.
After having installed the OEM kit, if I were to attempt the installation today, I wouldn't use the OEM kit, but make up something myself with aftermarket heat exchangers and lines.
The OEM kit was a little over $300 in 1997, and the most expensive part ($150), the thermostatic bypass valve won't work on the R65, there isn't enough clearance with the right header pipe.
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I've run a homemade cooler on my Britt Iron, made of a power steering cooler from an American land yacht. I'd try one on the BMW but for the lack of a proper cover and thermostat set-up I've not tried it. any suggestion for a thermostat on an R65LS?
rich
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Rich,
I've been running a cooler without a thermostat valve for almost 11 years now, no problems.
The cold oil has enough resistence to prevent any meaningful flow until it gets hot.
On my drive to work, the cooler is barely warm to the touch when I get there and shut it down.
You can always block the airflow through the cooler during 'cold' weather here in Phoenix, if it makes you feel better.
You can get an oil filter cover from a mid to late '90's R100, it has the threaded holes for a banjo bolt, and no temp valve, cost is about $35-40.
BMW part number : 11421338511.
I was way off on that price, current cost is around $71, it's doubled in cost in 11 years !
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I would love to examine one, or see a detailed print of one to see if a simple "non-bypass oil-cooler adapter" could be fabricated
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Justin,
It's not a real complicated part, I assume that you have the thermostatic valve on your R100RT.
If you cut the valve housing at the flange for the attachment bolts so it is flat , there is a raised area going vertical about .5 inches high about .75 inches wide and about 1.25 inches long, with two threaded holes for the banjo bolts and oil hoses.
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Bob
You said you saw a 50 - 75 F decrease.
Curious as to what it was before.
Did a little research before I removed my oil cooler & found info giving the optimal temp as 220 - 240 F.
I am as concerned about the oil being too cold. as it being too hot.
Can't remember the temp change it takes to change the viscosisty the 5 digits we see on the label.
But what I got from my reading was, best protection is to get the oil to optimal & keep it there.
Otherwise change every 1000 -1500 miles to ensure the oil preforms as stated.
Its the volatility of the oil that is most affected by the temps.
That the good stuff evaporates/burns off & the oil doesn't protect as before.
Troy
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I was seeing indicated temperatures of around 320-330 F. :o at highway speeds of 75 mphin air temps of 105 F. (b average temps around here during the 'hot season')
I thought it was caused by an inaccurate indicator, but I checked out the accuracy with some test equipment at work, and found the indications within 5-10 degrees of the test equipment.
That's when I decided to install the cooler kit.
Oil temps now average about 260-275 F. in same riding conditions as before.
When the engine is running, I think the only oil that gets on the dipstick is splash, not oil sitting in the sump.
After I shut the bike down in the garage with no airflow over it, and air temp of 105 F., I can see a noticeable drop in oil temp ( 20 F.) within 5 minutes, so I'm not so sure how realistic an indication I'm getting when the engine is running.
So I'm thinking that the oil temp is around the 240 F. area in the sump.
This desert heat can be real tough on oil, that's one of the reasons I tried Mobil 1 motorcycle oil, for higher temp resistance, but the rear main seal didn't like the full synthetic, so I went back to Spectro Golgen 20w50, but the last time I bought it, it was over $10 a quart, so now the R65 gets BMW 20w50 BMW semi-synthetic oil made by Spectro.
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I would love to examine one, or see a detailed print of one to see if a simple "non-bypass oil-cooler adapter" could be fabricated
Justin, if you ever figure a way to fab one up inexpensively sign me up for one!