The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: mick_p on January 15, 2008, 04:50:31 PM
-
Hi Everyone
I am looking for any advice about changing the header pipes on my 86' R65 Mono Cafe Racer. The current headers are original and quite rusted but no holes, the rest from the collector box back are in good condition. I am thinking of putting new Staintunes on but not sure if I need a special tool to undo the pipes. (AUD$450) Any suggestions on technique?
Also, has anyone seen better pipes at a better price? seems like I can order most parts from Europe or USA and have them delivered to my door for less that it costs to buy here in Australia!
Alternatively I thought about putting exhaust tape on the headers to disguise the rust and gain that 'special' look. your comments are welcome.
Thanks
-
Get yerself one o these
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sjbmw.com%2F_images%2Fparts%2F51_lg.gif&hash=b1a8929db80516e5c5e183c851e4a143f6c68ac2)
They have 'em here
http://www.sjbmw.com/parts.asp?searchtype=0&cat=Tools
Also order yourself up a couple of new Exhaust nuts because you'll most likely be cutting the old ones off to avoid botching up the threads on the exhaust spigots. The new nuts get a nice schmere of never seize before installation. lots of header pipes to choose from with 1, 2, or no crossover pipes. there are even some 2 into 1 models.
rich
-
What I did to the headers on our '80 was to sandblast them, fill all of the deep rust pits in with filler rod and a gas torch, filed the spots down, and coated them with a satin black exhaust coating. As far as price, all of the stainless are pretty steep and the cheapest standard steel headers I've seen are MAC brand, for about $150 USD.
You do need a special exhaust nut wrench to get the big finned nut off and they are available from several on-line sources for between $20-$30 USD.
-
Yes, do some searches on exhaust nuts in this forum and the boxerworks one - I'd first try hitting them with some sort of penetrating oil or WD40 or product of your choice for a few days before attempting to wrench them off.. and if you start to turn them and they start turning very hard after initially breaking free - STOP RIGHT THERE !!!!
Get the hacksaw or dremel tool of your choice and CAREFULLY cut the nut off. Repairing the threads on the exhaust ports on the heads is expensive and best avoided !
When putting exhaust nuts on, ALWAYS do put on anti-sieze. I make it a habit to loosen the nuts at least once a year in hopes that this frequent a movement will help prevent the nuts from bonding to the alloy of the head - it may be just a placebo, but makes me feel better..
-
i would love to have a 2 into 1 exhaust for mine! that is about the only thing i havent messed with. i may shorten one a little. i have thought about trying.
i have a set of mac headers for mine and they where reasonable in price and look nice.
-
Yes!! What nhmaf said! Very important stuff and he is ,after all, a GOD member :)
rich
-
I only recently noticed my transition to deity-status.. rest assured, I won't let it go to my head !
There are some folks who are much farther up the mountain than I am, too !
-
Since I started using and renewing anti-seize on those exhaust nuts every year, I have always been able to easily remove them and I don't tighten them up until I am blue in the face either....just a nice rosy shade!
When I first got the bike , the nuts had to be cut off......first sawn to just short of the threads on the cylinders; then a sharp rap with a cold chisel and they broke away and off.