The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: r67boxer on April 25, 2020, 05:07:36 PM
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I finally got to the point of trying to start my now assembled '87 R65 basket case. All I hear is a loud click. I checked the battery and both (I tried another too) are fully charged. Figured it was the starter itself so I changed that one out too with a freshly rebuilt one. Same 'click'. Terminals on the battery and starter are tight. I don't have a spare relay so can't try that out till I get another. Any ideas?
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Hello r67boxer,
Do you have a multi-meter ?
If yes, check that when you press the starter button, you have a +12 V at the spade connector on the starter. This is the signal for the starter to run. If yes, this will said that the relay is sound. If not, either the relay or the wiring are at fault.
If you have the 12 V coming to the starter, you may have the solenoid either not working or the contact oxidized inside.
You can also test the starter outside the bike using the plus and minus cables from the battery but hold the starter firmly in a wise because if it starts it will jump fiercely....
Hope this helps.
P.S. : if you do not have a multi-meter, you can check using a 12V bulb and a couple of wires... The bulb should light ...
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I'll check that out this afternoon. Thanks.
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If you remove the plugs and put the bike in 5th gear on the center stand, can you rotate the engine by turning the rear wheel?
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Is the click you hear coming from the starter or the starter relay ??
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Starter. A loud click/clunk.
WRT the earlier question, yes I can turn the engine over manually.
Okay, I just checked the relay, positive to the battery and negative to the spade connector and I had 12.4 volts.
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Kinda sounds like a battery issue .
How old is the battery ??
Can you put jumper cables from another vehicle to the bikes battery and see if the starter works then ??
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I bench tested the starter and it works. Not sure what to do next save for wiring. Everything is tight.
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When you engage the starter, what does the battery voltage drop to .
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It drops off to 11.6 V when the starter button is engaged.
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Only thing I can think of that may cause this, is the contacts in the solenoid .
Possibly there are a few peaks on one side caused by metal transfer, you get enough power to operate the solenoid, but can't get enough current flow to rotate the starter when installed in the engine with a heavy load trying to move the engine.
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Thanks. The bizarre part is that I've tried 2 starters. One recently professionally overhauled, the other in the R65. Both do the same on the work bench and make the same 'click/clank' when installed.
I tried to manually turn over the starter while installed and could not get it to turn when I shorted between the nut (where red wires go) to the spade connector. Ignition was on.
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I just looked at the wiring diagram and this bike (1987) has a clutch switch which presumably will not allow the starter to be engaged without depressing same. I've tried both with and without depressing the clutch with the same outcome. What if the clutch switch is bad?
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If the clutch interlock switch was bad, there would be no power to the starter no clunk when the start switch is depressed, it removes a ground for the starter relay .
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I'm running out of ideas about this !!
There has been issues with the battery cables at the battery usually the positive cable, corrosion under the insulation .
http://motoelekt.com/chassis.htm
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Great minds must think alike. I traced the heavy cable from the battery to the starter and it wasn't letting juice through. One of the ends was badly corroded. I cleaned that up and voila! I couldn't see the end as it connected to the battery and it was wrapped with about 4 km of electrical tape. Thanks to everyone that helped me through this ... when it warms up I'll drag it out of the garage start it (now that I don't have to use the kick starter).
Kevin
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Great !! An easy fix, once you found it !! :D
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+1 on battery cable corrosion. I recently cleaned and lubed my starter motor bushings, which made a great improvement in starting... but the battery cables look like crap and should be replaced. 40 year old open-end crimp connectors have finally met their match... I'll make my own cables with welding cable, good crimp-on ends, and marine grade heat shrink.
You can always bypass cables with good jumpers. If the motor turns freely but won't crank with two different starters then I would investigate the power source (B+ wire and ground)
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It's all good - see 2 posts ago. It was corrosion.
Kevin