The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: andrelitinsky on September 04, 2019, 03:12:49 PM
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Fellow Airheads,
Some of you may remember my 1982 BMW R65 with VM34 Mikuni Carbs:
[img size=50]https://i.imgur.com/3pAkcEz.jpg[/img]
Anyways, I've had so much fun riding around. The major problems I am having right now is:
The starter does not shut off when cranked over (usually when bike is warm)
After a long ride, I parked outside my garage. When it was time to move her in, I fired her up, and the starter kept cranking (even with killswitch: OFF and key: OUT). What's going on here?
Odometer is broken
Nothing is moving on the odometer and the tripometer HARDLY increases.
Is there something I could check?
If I wanted to get a new odometer/dashboard setup, do you guys have any suggestions?
Bike stumbles at 900 RPM when initially fired, after 10 minutes, it idles at 1100 RPM
Basically, the bike is: fire her up and GO. This is OKAY, but I gotta stay revving at stop lights for 10+ minutes. Occasionally, it will stumble and shut off so I have to play this delicate game of keeping 1000+ RPM until its warm.
I could rotate in my idle screws to hold an idle from cold, but then the idle will sit @ 1250+ RPM when its warm. Any suggestions?
NOTE: These are Mikunis!
Rear brake light does not light when pressing rear brake pedal
Not the biggest deal because I can use my front brakes, but I'd like to start looking at electrical components. Where do I start?
Blue skies,
-Andre
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For your starter, the soleniod on the starter may be hanging up there's a lot of current going through the contacts you can get high spots or peaks metal conracts can fuse together and keep the starter operationg .
Also the starter relay under the tank may be causing this as well .
Having an inoperative odometer is quite common, you need to go ino the indicator and secure a gear or two that are slipping on a shaft .
Your brake light, if it's not a bad bulb, check for power at the bulb socket, then it's a matter of tracing the wiring back and checking the connections back to the switch at the final drive area .
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With the rear brake light: if the light works for the front brake then it's not the bulb. I'd probably swap out the switch before tracing other electrics, it's not surprising that they fail periodically given that they are exposed to crud coming off the rear tyre.