The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Tony Gee on August 08, 2018, 08:07:02 AM
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Hi, I've just bought a 1980 R65 that's been standing in a garage for some 20 years and, oddly enough, needs a little work to recommission it!
I've been busy collecting data for this make and year and I'm having problems finding out what battery was originally fitted to it and what suitable alternatives there are available now. I've found that the space restrictions in the "battery compartment" seem to rule out some of the ones that have been recommended by local retailers.
Can anyone shed any light on this, please? I'll, no doubt, figure this out in due course along with how I can get the locking fuel cap unlocked (I've tried the key!!)
Thanks for your help and for letting me join the Forum.
Regards,
Tony
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This the battery I use in my R65. Probably not available in the UK but the dimensions are there
https://www.gruberpower.com/12-volt-18-amp-hour-ah-battery
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There's a trick to the fuel cap when it gets stuck, I don't know it (cause the monoshock one is better?) but you can probably find it here with a search.
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This is from memory, and I would research it first! Pass a rope through the fuel cap handle. Tie both ends together (leave enough length) loop around your neck while sitting on bike. Stand up on pegs and pull the cap out like a cork from a bottle! Hope this helps.
Regards !
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Search PC680 and that will bring up all kinds of batteries
AGM type is the best way to go
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Moto bins has this
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I used to use the PC680 until the price got crazy then I switched to the Universal and never looked back.
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I got my first PC680 battery in 1999 paid $65 delivered to my home .
The last one I bought was $120 delivered, and lasted 25 months, that's when I switched to generic AGM batteries .
The unrelenting heat here in the low desert usually kills motorcycle batteries in less than three years, no matter what you purchase .
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For the fuel cap wrap a rag around 360 degrees under the lip and apply pressure upwards. Assuming you have unlocked the cap (50/50 chance here). Then with the handle turn the cap until it starts to unscrew.
If the internal "link" is broken it will not turn so you need to apply the upwards pressure on the lip.
You can buy a new cap (expensive) or drill and put a small bolt in the cap which means you can not lock it anymore. I hope this makes sense.
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FYI
My Odyssey is almost 4 years old with over 40000 miles on it
No sign of failing :)
I wasn't really pushing the Odyssey battery
I already know everyone on here thinks they are to expensive :o
I was just saying if you search "PC680" a lot of options will come up
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Do not break your cap. they are NLA at BMW ...
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Do not break your cap. they are NLA at BMW ...
However, Motorworks have a reproduction item and various other options.
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Hi, I've just bought a 1980 R65 that's been standing in a garage for some 20 years and, oddly enough, needs a little work to recommission it!
I've been busy collecting data for this make and year and I'm having problems finding out what battery was originally fitted to it and what suitable alternatives there are available now. I've found that the space restrictions in the "battery compartment" seem to rule out some of the ones that have been recommended by local retailers.
Can anyone shed any light on this, please? I'll, no doubt, figure this out in due course along with how I can get the locking fuel cap unlocked (I've tried the key!!)
Thanks for your help and for letting me join the Forum.
Regards,
Tony
I use this in my '80 R65:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KC39BE6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you're interested, I rebuilt mine last winter:
https://advrider.com/index.php?threads/new-airhead-project.1260761/
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Lots of options available today compared to 20 years ago !! :)
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Eventually got the filler cap off after pouring loads of WD40 in to release it. It was rusted out, though, so I need to get hold of a replacement. I understand that Motor Works can supply S/H ones without keys which is probably the way I'll go.
Battery was easier, I got an Exide from a local dealer. It fits well and turns the engine over. So that's good.
Thanks for all your help.
Tony
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Please do not just bung in a battery, tip in fresh fuel and try to start a machine that has sat for 20 years. In fact even "dry" cranking it is not recommended, the reason is that every bit of particulate matter that was suspended in the oil when it last ran is now sitting in the bottom of the sump just waiting for the opportunity to be picked up by the pump and be sent on its way around the engine.
Do the following.
Drain as much oil as you can from the sump and then remove sump - I suspect one look at what you will find will convince you of what a good idea it was to remove the sump.
After cleaning the sump - refit the sump with a new gasket, noting that these gaskets are designed to be used with no magic potions or lotions on the mating surfaces, the next person to remove that sump will thank you.
Change the filter, and along the way read up on the $2,000 O-ring and make sure you don't become a contributor by measuring your filter canister depth and using the correct number of shims and the gasket if needed.
While you are in an oil changing mood, gearbox and final drive as well, with the correct grade and type of oil.
The brakes have probably gone South as well in 20 years, before offering advice I enquire if these are something you will fix yourself or will you send them out?
Back to the engine. After cleaning the tank out and filling with fresh fuel I'd turn the fuel on for a brief period just to see if the carbs are going to instantly piddle all over the floor. if they don't I'd leave them be for the present, but I;d order a rebuild kit and pencil in a "carb day" in the near future as whilst they will probably get you a trial start and run, they will most likely not be anywhere near rideable condition.
To return to the engine, With nice brand new oil in it now, but the bike on the centrestand and remove the rocker covers (and I'd have new gaskets handy just in case - new rocker cover gaskets are just something you should keep anyway.
Now remove the sparkplugs and reconnect them to their leads and lay them on the cylinders in a way that you can see the hot ends of them.
Crank the engine over until you see oil flooding onto the floor from all 4 rockers - no oil, stop what you are doing and investigate why. In 20 secs or so cranking you should get around 150~200 mls of oil if the oil system is in working order.
Whilst cranking, do you see sparks?
If all that looks good, refit plugs and rocker covers and "go for gold". If it starts, keep the revs fairly low and listen for any expensive sounding noises.
All good? After the brakes are done and the fluid and seals change dint he front forks you are ready for a gingerly test ride on your 20 year old tyres that must be throw away pretty soon, but will do just fine for a low speed ride around your suburb (or two).
More than likely the clutch will have frozen, don't despair, they are usually fairly easily freed up, but pencil in a day for spline lube, rear main seal and gearbox input seal rehab. And yes there is a rear seal on the gearbox you may have to change as well, but it is a bear, requires special tools, so if it isn't leaking now you can ignore it for a while.
Lastly, photos please!