The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Adrian on November 05, 2017, 07:41:48 PM
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Hi all - the picture shows the airbox internals. I read somewhere that it's not necessary to connect up the plastic/rubber pipes to the engine breather. Is this correct?
I'm just being a bit lazy perhaps but it would be less clutter in the box if it can be left out.
Thanks........ Adrian
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Some folks have eliminated all that plumbing by just running a hose from the breather to a catch-can... All the stuff in your pic dump all the burped out oil mist into the carb intakes so it will burn up.
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If not installed you will end up with the oil settling in the bottom of the air box and maybe oil on the filter element
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Regarding the catch can, this is one of my favorites.
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Okay I get it - back in they go ......
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Thanks guys .....
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You really don't have to.
If you have a catch can, you will NOT have oil all over the place.
You will also NOT have oil dripping on your boot.
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To install Clamp on air filters as shown by Bob Valdez do you need to re-jet the carbs. To me it seems that you do since more air is getting into them. Also how would you determine the new jet size? I just like the look. I have the
Bing 46-241. Will I make more problems for myself?
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This is a question about the rubber valve (Part No. 13721337162) which is in the airbox, which way round is it fitted? mine has completely disintegrated and the remnants were removed when I updated my iron horse. It seems to be running fine without it though (he said, tempting fate)
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To install Clamp on air filters as shown by Bob Valdez do you need to re-jet the carbs. To me it seems that you do since more air is getting into them. Also how would you determine the new jet size? I just like the look. I have the
Bing 46-241. Will I make more problems for myself?
Quite simply the bile will never run as well across the entire rev range, or as economically, with pod filters fitted as it will with the stock air filtration system.
Period!
The very simple reason for this is that the engine requires a "tuned length" intake which the pod filters will not provide.
You can of course re-jet for peak power at WOT, or you can play the endless game of compromise to try and obtain more acceptable running for whatever style of riding you do.
Course you could fit appropriate length velocity stacks and that would solve the problems, but that will involve either inventing and entirely new place to mount foot pegs and controls, and/or a bilateral lower limb amputation that may place restraint on your activities of daily living.
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This is a question about the rubber valve (Part No. 13721337162) which is in the airbox, which way round is it fitted? mine has completely disintegrated and the remnants were removed when I updated my iron horse. It seems to be running fine without it though (he said, tempting fate)
Install it sticking out of the box or at least plug it with something
If the hole is open you will be sucking dirt in to the intake of the engine
I assume you are talking about #15
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Here's your solution, Tony.
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In reply to Badger Tom....
I ran the pod filters for a while (without re-jetting) and it seemed to have negligible impact on performance. Not sure about economy. But the thing that worried me the most was the lack of support for the carbs. A couple of hose clamps didn't inspire a lot of confidence. In fact, the left carb came off one day and was left hanging by the choke & throttle cables. I went back to the full airbox for this reason. I still think the pod filters look pretty sexy, though. If a more rigid/reliable system of mounting the carbs was developed I'd go back tomorrow.
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Here's your solution, Tony.
Love it!
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It is indeed #15, cheers