The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: BPT on February 07, 2018, 09:46:07 AM
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I have one of these with the plugs on the end of the harness. Was I naïve in thinking it was plug and play? Scouring the net, I'm seeing people talking about changing some wiring but these aren't R65's they're talking about.
On ours, does something need to be changed with the wiring?
And how about the relay?
I remember asking here before about the different options for an on/off headlight. I guess I thought that if you got the proper switch, the switch took care of the wiring differences but now I'm not sure.
Thanks
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On my monoshock, I've replaced the left hand switch assembly (twice!) with the euro version. It's plug and play. The only difference is an additional switch position to turn off the headlight, which is handled internal to the switch, not in the harness.
I guess the dual shock switches could be different?
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I'll get on the fiche and see if I can tell if they're different, I have no idea. But it's good to hear yours was a straight replacement.
Maybe another twin shock owner here has done it and will be able to tell if it's the same and easy like yours was.
Thanks for the reply, that gives me hope.
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Max's fiche shows a variety of part numbers fitting the later models but only one for mine. The US version on mine is the same as what fits the later models.
So I'm wondering if that means there might be some difference, maybe not a straight fit on the earlier ones?
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It is the way the key switch is wired on the R65
You can get a Euro key switch to retain the parking function or use the USA key and switch the green and grey wires but you loose your parking light function
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here is a close up of the Euro spec Key switch
It has extra positions for the ignition to be switched separately from the head lights
Also It has no relay to turn the headlights off while cranking
But that makes no difference with the key switch used
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Ok, I'll study these and see what I can absorb. Right off the bat, here are a couple of questions:
Sounds like the easiest would be keep the current ignition switch, switch the two wires. How much will I miss not having the parking light function?
Can I keep my current relay no matter what? When starting with the Euro switch, will it start with the lights on (harder on the battery, I'll assume)? Or is there something that makes it only work if the lights are off?
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i cant find a 85 on mono print
If some one has a link post i up and i will look at it
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Ok, I'll study these and see what I can absorb. Right off the bat, here are a couple of questions:
Sounds like the easiest would be keep the current ignition switch, switch the two wires. How much will I miss not having the parking light function?
Can I keep my current relay no matter what? When starting with the Euro switch, will it start with the lights on (harder on the battery, I'll assume)? Or is there something that makes it only work if the lights are off?
Just the park lights If you have to park at night just turn the ignition switch off and leave the headlights (but not very long)
Keep the relay and it will shut the headlights off when cranking no mater how the key switch is wired Euro or US spec
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I don't think rewiring the key switch is necessary. The euro headlight switch has an off position for the headlight. The "headlight off when starter button pushed" feature works fine on mine, because changing the headlight switch doesn't affect the other switches.
I would trace the current headlight switch wiring and see if the connectors match. If they do, plug it in and see how it works!
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I am electrically stupid, Matt, so thought it'd be better to ask first. And because of that electrical ignorance, I don't trust myself to be able to figure some of that stuff out. Especially with the Germans!
I will try to trace the wires. But with the different switches, relays and stuff interconnected, I thought it best to ask first. Naturally I want it to work correctly but I'm more concerned with frying something if I try to do it on my own and get it wrong.
As far as the comparison between our models, I still wonder why Max wouldn't show it for mine if it was a straight up fit. That's when I really thought there must be some reason and I should be sure I knew what was going on. I don't mind digging around messing with stuff. But with these things I worry about letting the smoke out or, since it deals with the ignition switch, getting stuck not being able to start.
At least now I'm pretty confident I can make it work with MrClu's instructions. I'll play around with it to figure out the variables unless someone else pipes up who has done it on the same model.
It's going to be a little whIle before I mess with it but I'll post on the results.
Thanks
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How much will I miss not having the parking light function?
I had to move my headlight wire to the park light terminal on my twin shock Euro spec key switch. Losing the park light also made me lose the tail light and instrument lights. Not sure if this would be the case on US spec twin shocks.
To get the tail light back I tied the park light spade terminal on to the side of the headlight spade with wire and covered it with insulation tape. Not ideal but it lasted a 3300km jaunt last week.
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How much will I miss not having the parking light function?
You also loose the tail light when in the first position ignition only
I do have my ignition feed and park lights wired together on the terminal normally used for the park lights
I assume one would only use this feature if they needed to to conserve power
For example charging failure or needing to get the battery charged back up quickly
Changing all lights to LED is a great improvement for your charging system
It makes high output alternator conversions obsolete
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I replaced my headlight with a 20w led bulb and i was surprised how much light it throws out.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Motorcycle-LED-Headlight-High-Low-20W-2500LM-HS1-COB-Motorbike-Scooter-led-light-Headlamp-6500K-White/32804454469.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_10130_10342_10547_10343_10340_10548_10341_10084_10083_10618_10307_10131_10132_10133_5711211_10313_10059_5722311_10534_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620_10142,searchweb201603_36,ppcSwitch_2_ppcChannel&algo_expid=b4d4552f-d1e4-4c4a-80ae-c09aca0e745f-13&algo_pvid=b4d4552f-d1e4-4c4a-80ae-c09aca0e745f&transAbTest=ae803_5&priceBeautifyAB=0
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I replaced my headlight with a 20w led bulb and i was surprised how much light it throws out.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Motorcycle-LED-Headlight-High-Low-20W-2500LM-HS1-COB-Motorbike-Scooter-led-light-Headlamp-6500K-White/32804454469.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_10130_10342_10547_10343_10340_10548_10341_10084_10083_10618_10307_10131_10132_10133_5711211_10313_10059_5722311_10534_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620_10142,searchweb201603_36,ppcSwitch_2_ppcChannel&algo_expid=b4d4552f-d1e4-4c4a-80ae-c09aca0e745f-13&algo_pvid=b4d4552f-d1e4-4c4a-80ae-c09aca0e745f&transAbTest=ae803_5&priceBeautifyAB=0
How did you fit that?
Wouldn't this one better fit the standard headlamp? Or have you changed your headlamp assembly?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Plug-and-play-led-motorcycle-headlight-H4-HS1-hi-low-8w-scooter-motorbike-headlamp-motorcycle-Accessories/32796692230.html?spm=2114.10010108.100009.4.51506520ZgjYvL&traffic_analysisId=recommend_2037_null_null_null&scm=1007.13482.91320.0&pvid=98bc90f2-30be-4b1a-8f96-93cb23475634&tpp=1
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Most people feel the LEDS do as good or better on low beam as the standard bulb
But My opinion is they are a little weaker than the normal on high
I also have Aux Floods on with the high beam to fill in where they leave off
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I replaced my headlight with a 20w led bulb and i was surprised how much light it throws out.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Motorcycle-LED-Headlight-High-Low-20W-2500LM-HS1-COB-Motorbike-Scooter-led-light-Headlamp-6500K-White/32804454469.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_10130_10342_10547_10343_10340_10548_10341_10084_10083_10618_10307_10131_10132_10133_5711211_10313_10059_5722311_10534_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620_10142,searchweb201603_36,ppcSwitch_2_ppcChannel&algo_expid=b4d4552f-d1e4-4c4a-80ae-c09aca0e745f-13&algo_pvid=b4d4552f-d1e4-4c4a-80ae-c09aca0e745f&transAbTest=ae803_5&priceBeautifyAB=0
How did you fit that?
Wouldn't this one better fit the standard headlamp? Or have you changed your headlamp assembly?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Plug-and-play-led-motorcycle-headlight-H4-HS1-hi-low-8w-scooter-motorbike-headlamp-motorcycle-Accessories/32796692230.html?spm=2114.10010108.100009.4.51506520ZgjYvL&traffic_analysisId=recommend_2037_null_null_null&scm=1007.13482.91320.0&pvid=98bc90f2-30be-4b1a-8f96-93cb23475634&tpp=1
I think this may be better 20w instead of 8
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Motorcycle-LED-Headlight-H4-Hi-Lo-20W-2500LM-HS1-COB-Motorbike-Scooter-led-light-Headlamp-6500K/32797293055.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000023.6.78817464sLjrPR
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When installing these you will have to remove the bulb shield inside the headlight
Just a warning you may need to replace the gasket because it may tare when separating the glass from the reflector
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When installing these you will have to remove the bulb shield inside the headlight
Just a warning you may need to replace the gasket because it may tare when separating the glass from the reflector
The penny finally dropped.
In Australia the R65 didn't get the "3 piece suit" headlight with separately replaceable glass lens, reflector and bulb.
What we got was an incredibly rare (last eBay quoted price in the vicinity of $150) semi sealed beam that is supposedly 7" but really isn't as the lens has a reduced diameter so as to provide a "landing shelf" so that it sits inside the chrome bezel and is then secured with a number of "L" - springs. The bulb is a fairly standard H4 type.
I have suspected for some time that R65s in other jurisdictions got different headlights and Mrclubbike's post sort of confirms it.
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To answer the fit, it just went straight in. I paid $15 for mine so it is probably the one you put up, that is no longer available. I just looked at the site and picked the globe that looked the same.
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As far as the comparison between our models, I still wonder why Max wouldn't show it for mine if it was a straight up fit.
I sorta missed this when replying the first time - the reason the parts fiche doesn't show the euro headlight switch assembly for a US bike is, of course, that the euro switch doesn't fit the legalities here in the US.
Motorcycles in the US have been required since the 70s to have an "always on" headlight, so there's no reason to sell a switch that could circumvent that law.
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My mate told me my Led globe was not ADR approved.
(ADR Australian design rule)
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My mate told me my Led globe was not ADR approved.
(ADR Australian design rule)
I say MEH! to the ADRs. (The GSA has LED low beam, HID high beam, 2*1,500 lumen LED running lights, a HID flood light on the left of the beak and a HID pencil spot on the right [trucks dip their light for me a long way away]
The running lights are angled down so that the "puddle" of light they emit does not extend more than 20m in frotn of the bike, the HID flood is angled slightly lieft and usefully illuminates a 50m swathe of road verge out to about 100m, the high beam is angled so that the horizontal cut is about 150m ahead of the bike, the pencil spot at 500m. The LED low beam sort of lets cars know I'm there during the day - it is useless at night, but then so where the OEM bulbs - R1150 GS & GSAs are generally regarded as having the most crap stock lights fitted to a motorcycle in the past 30 years (my 1984 XT350 headllght is better, even with the stock 50/55 watt bulb).
As a nod to the ADRs I am about to change the HIDs on the beak to 35w LEDs as the HIDs are absurdly bright and throw light further than I need and therefore needlessly annoys other road users. I might put the HID flood on the R100.
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then secured with a number of "L" - springs.
I have "L" springs on my US model....... I know because when I took my headlight out to change bulbs two "L" springs went flying across the garage. I never found one of them so I am running an incomplete motorcycle ::)
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As far as the comparison between our models, I still wonder why Max wouldn't show it for mine if it was a straight up fit.
I sorta missed this when replying the first time - the reason the parts fiche doesn't show the euro headlight switch assembly for a US bike is, of course, that the euro switch doesn't fit the legalities here in the US.
Motorcycles in the US have been required since the 70s to have an "always on" headlight, so there's no reason to sell a switch that could circumvent that law.
Hey Matt - I think you misunderstood my post about that, or I didn't word it correctly. Max shows both switches for the later models but only the non-Euro for my earlier one. I thought about the legal aspect when I was only looking at mine. But when I saw that they also listed the Euro version for the ones a couple of years later, that's what made me think there might be a difference.
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Hey MrClubike - regarding LED, I have changed everything to LED except for the instrument panel and the headlight.
There have been a few threads here I've asked questions on about the headlights. I know that there are a few guys here that have changed and are happy. For a while I think it was difficult to get the reliability/good beam/price all in one good package. And the last time I looked it appeared to be $40 and up is what would get you something decent.
I have too many other things right now to deal with but would eventually like to switch the headlight to LED.
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I bought a new 1978 R100/7 and it had the same switch as the "Euro" bikes.
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Did you notice any differences, Justin? I mean as far as what they're talking about with certain things not working when it's in certain positions?
To be honest, I doubt I'd notice the difference. I'm not even sure if I have a "parking" light.
My current switch is bad so I needed to replace it anyway. I thought the Euro style would be good since it gave the option to turn the headlight off. But I didn't know it would change so many other things.
I guess as long as all the necessary lights work when it's in the full on position, that'll be fine with me. But it would be nice to have it work correctly, if possible, and also to know what to expect.
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I think the only difference was the ability to turn the lights off. It's been so long ago that I can't remember if it also turned off the tail light but I would bet it did. I think when one of these is put on a "big bike" there is a slight wiring change but not sure about the R65.
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Hi All,
Thought i'd jump in here. My 1983 r65 LS has the multi position "Euro" switch and it was purchased new in the US. On the advice of Barry, "Senior Member" I replaced my park light with a 20 Watter. from Moto Bins. I find it bright enough to fool the boys in blue into thinking I have my headlights on and saves the alternator output for charging my battery! Of course I have to remember to turn the switch to the appropriate position when I ride. Also I found a site selling a replacement 3 position US switch for these bikes. Of course I cannot remember which one it was (oh the cruelty of old age!). Will have a look and get back to you all.
Best regards from Brooklyn.
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Just reading this post again and as usual there could be the point of misunderstanding! Do you want the option of turning the headlight off at the handlebar BPT? I presume you're talking about the key switch (Euro key the only way it seems) 'cause on the handlebar would be too foolish.
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I acquired a Euro handlebar light switch. It is different than the US version in that it does indeed have an additional switch to allow you to turn off the headlight.
In the US I believe that it is because it is legally required to always have the headlight on, so we get switches that don't have the option to turn it off. I'm not sure what version you all get down your way.
So my original question was whether my new Euro spec switch can be plugged right in and work correctly on my otherwise US spec electricals.
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I acquired a Euro handlebar light switch. It is different than the US version in that it does indeed have an additional switch to allow you to turn off the headlight.
Ahhh, interesting. I believe (not 100% sure) the 'headlight off' handlebar switch only came out with the monoshocks. Which sounds to be plug and play indeed by what Matt Chapter says.
The confusion lies with the fact the 'Euro' twinshock can turn off the headlight at the key switch, no option at the handlebar. When I said it's foolish on the handlebar, it's probably only unique to the twinshock handlebar switch design, in that accidentally bumping the headlight switch is common when using the turn signals. I got reminded yesterday of this getting home and discovering I had full beam on :-?
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This is what I've got, is yours the same? It's the upper right switch that we don't get in the US. No danger of me accidentally hitting that.
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I've got no upper yellow on/off switch on mine, the flasher/dip/high beam, horn and turn switch are all the same though.
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Sounds like you've got the same as what is standard here. Just a round blank spot where that additional switch is at the top?
On my original, it's the flasher/high beam that's been the problem. Something is broken or out of place internally. It doesn't switch easily and it won't always hold when on Hi. I was going to try and take it apart but heard here and elsewhere that one may or may not get it back together properly. And if it is broken then it might not work at all once I mess with it so I held off.
When I had my charging problems a while back, we talked here about being able to switch the headlight on and off and the two main suggestions were switching wires on the ignition switch or getting the Euro headlight switch. So when one came available I grabbed it thinking it was just a straight swap.
I guess I'll find out...... if it's a little quirky, that's fine, I'm more concerned about frying something or having it not work at all when it comes to electrical things.