The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: jamestnewsonr65 on November 16, 2017, 04:23:18 AM
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I've changed and refurbished a few of the engine components on the r65 as I had some leaking push rod tube seals and thought that I may as well replace a few other elements as I was unsure on the compression of the engine.
The engine now has new push rod tubes, seals, head seals, vapor blasted cylinder heads, piston heads and valves along with new piston rings.
I was wondering what the run in procedure would be after renewing these type of elements for an older bike. I've run in new bikes before but I imagine the process may be different for these bikes.
Any pointers or help appreciated.
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I've been using this method on all my engines, car and motorcycle, and have been very happy with the results!
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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The only things you replaced that need running in are the piston rings and cylinders (assuming you deglazed or honed the bores). I'd be inclined to follow the advice that DonC posted above.
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An '82 LS should have nikasil cylinders, so no honing should have been done .
I would put a couple hundred km's on the bike, then check the torque of the cylinder/head nuts, then check the valve clearance .
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This is from Tom Cutter a airhead racer and mechanic for a very long time.
"When I hone Nikasil cylinders, I use a medium-grit flex-hone and turn
it as fast as I push it up and down. This gives a good approximation of a 45
degree crosshatch. I listen to the sound of the hone in the cylinder and stop
when it changes, indicating that the surface glaze has been removed. The
actual Nikasil material is so hard that the hone I use barely touches it, so
in effect, though I call it honing, I'm really just deglazing the cylinder in
a consistent and thorough manner." JT
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This is the first thing I have read about honing/ deglazing a nikasil cylinder .
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On the Junkyard Dawg I just put the new rings in, slathered the piston/ring assembly with Type-F ATF, put it together, and ran the snot out of it! Years ago I remember an old mechanic telling me, "Break 'em in like you're gonna drive 'em!"
Now, with a new cam it's best to properly break them in.
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This is the first thing I have read about honing/ deglazing a nikasil cylinder .
I reckon it is overkill, nikasil is so damm hard that it doesn't glaze up, what happens is that bits of carbon, piston and piston ring get ground up into tiny, tiny pieces and fill in the "valleys" between the nikasil "peaks". You get a perfectly fine deglazing result with strong detergent in hot water and a "scotchbrite" pad.
When I first read something similar to the above I did not believe it, i remained sceptical right up until I did as instructed with the hot water, detergent and scotchbrite. The cylinder was quite shiny beforehand and not afterwards.
As part of my lifelong quest to avoid anything remotely reminiscent of manual labour, the next time I have nikasil cylinders to prepare for re-use I'll pop them in the dishwasher, I suspect that will have the desired result.
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Mama gonna whup your a$$ big time... :o
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Mama gonna whup your a$$ big time... :o
I got sprung a few years back after putting a gearbox in the dishwasher - the plastic liner was stained permanently.
The replacement dishwasher has a stainless steel liner and stainless steel shelves in order to make detection harder.
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Thanks for the replies. Looks like the link DonC posted follows something else I was reading and looks like the way forward.
- Crank starter with no fuel supply to prime oil until the oil light goes out
- Turn fuel on
- Start engine w/ minimal choke
- Immediately push RPM to 3000 for 15 seconds
- Push RPM to 3500 - 4000 RPM for 30 seconds
- Shut down
- Check for leaks
- Ride at 3500 - 4500 RPM for 20 miles alternating between full throttle open and full throttle closed.
- @20mi change oil
- Retorque heads using head torque procedure after letting sit overnight
- Follow normal break in procedure for 600 miles
- BMW break-in procedure from R90/6 owner's manual:
- Vary engine speeds and loads in various gears without exceeding maximum specified speeds. Winding roads in hilly country are particularly suitable for braking-in the machine. On straight, flat foods, it is best to run the machine almost up to maximum permitted break-in speed, then allow the machine to cover the next section of road with the engine off load.
- @50mi change oil adjust valve lash
- @200mi change oil and filter
- @300mi adjust valve lash
- @600mi adjust valve lash, retorque heads, change oil using break in oil
- @1500mi change oil to synthetic 20W50 and filter
- @2000mi adjust valve lash
- @5000mi standard tuneup procedure
- Follow normal maintenance schedule after 5000 miles
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Sounds like a good plan James.