The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: qwerty123 on May 08, 2017, 12:57:26 PM
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Hello all,
I have an '84 R65 in good condition with ~50K miles. Only upgrades I've made are headlight modulator, Motorrad Elektrik LED brake light, LED turn signals, brake light flasher.
I'm planning on an XC trip, Boston to San Francisco, during June. It'll be about two, maybe three weeks long. I have yet to settle on a route, but many have advised me to hew north because of temperature concerns (I'll be wearing a riding suit with armor, etc.), so you can assume either west through Toronto ultimately crossing the Rockies in Banff and then south along the West Coast, OR upper midwest, cross the Rockies in Colorado / 40/ Ft. Collins, thence to SF.
The question I humbly submit to the brain trust is: what maintenance should I be doing now? Things on my list are:
[olist]
- Take it to a qualified airhead mechanic (Duncan of Duncan's Beemers) for a once-over before leaving, + balance wheels + compression check (NOT DONE)
- Check / replace engine transmission, driveshaft, final drive oil and oil filter (done)
- Adjust valves (done)
- Repair odometer / trip computer and calibrate speedometer (done)
- Measure brake disc thickness (done--4.78mm on avg, stock stainless rotors)
- Adjust rear brake controls, gearshift linkage, footpegs (done)
- Flush and bleed brake fluid (done--but planning on replacing line with stainless, would also love to get dual disks since I have the correct right fork slider already)
- Check front and rear brake pads (done)
- Clean and lube rear wheel splines (done)
- New air filter (done)
- Transmission spline lube (NOT DONE)
- Adjust clutch (NOT DONE)
- Add spare clutch cable alongside old one (done)
- Clean and/or adjust + balance carbs (NOT DONE--advice here for a good route?)
- Check and gap plugs (done)
- (What other electrical should I be doing? I've seen upgrading the grounds from the diode board recommended, for instance, and new heat sink paste in various places. Upgrade voltage regulator? Also I've got those two old torpedo fuses beneath the tank)
- Check alternator brushes (NOT DONE)
- Replace battery (six years old, works fine, stored indoors during the winter) (NOT DONE)
- Clean and re-pack wheel bearings (NOT DONE--anyone know of a good guide? I still haven't fully wrapped my mind around the preload situation)
- What about throttle cables? They seem to work fine, should I even mess with them?
- Tires are quite new and in good shape (Michelin Pilot Activ)
[/olist]
(If it says "done", it's been done in the last 1k miles or less)
Thanks for all the help over the years! Stay tuned for threads on the exact route and what to pack.
Matt
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As you go thru the maintenance items, set aside the tools you use and mark them with a little spray paint, when done, take them with you as your tool kit.
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You seem to have it all covered.
Wheel bearings I wouldn't do more than once in every 5 or 6 years so it depends when they were last done.
Leave the throttle cables alone and carry spares instead.
Do the clutch adjustment as it only takes 2 mins.
If gear changing is OK I wouldn't do the clutch spline lube but I would do the rear wheel splines unless they were done at the last rear tire change.
The main thing is not to service the bike or allow anyone else to service the the bike just before the trip as while it might seem sensible the bike is then unproven. A bike should be used regularly and proven reliable in local use before doing a longer trip.
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Do you belong to an auto service club, like AAA ???
You can be prepared for a lot of what if's, but if it comes to the worst, it would be nice to be covered by an auto club, for towing, roadside assistance .
I don't know how familiar you are with the western US, but there is a lot of territory out here that does not have cell phone coverage .
Also, fuel stations can get far between in this region, so plan your trip with this in mind .
When I first got out here 24 years ago, I didn't factor this in and I had a few trips in my car, where I went over 300 miles, 400 km, without seeing a fuel station .
Dehydration can also become a factor, drink plenty of water, it may not be hot, but it is dry .
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The best tool kit i have is auto club membership and a mobile phone, along with my other tools.
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I would and do carry a complete extra ignition system
bean can ignition module and coil
I would carry a spare alternator rotor
My regulator and diode board are available at any parts store so no need to carry those
A roll of wire and some but splices
Make sure you have a volt meter mounted up to monitor charging voltage
If charging fails you need to know this so you can disable the headlights to get you somewhere to get repairs made or buy a standard car battery and some cables to wire it up to get you along farther if needed
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Thanks for the responses all!
@Bob_Roller I do have roadside assistance purchased through my insurance (and used ~6 years ago when I first bought the bike with a nearly dead battery). That's also very good advice about fluids (water and gas). Our R65s don't get excellent mileage, and the tanks are not too big.
@Mrclubike,
1) I don't believe I've run across regulator or diode board part numbers that can be found at any auto parts store--might you be able to share?
2) The volt meter seems like a good idea. What do you think of a higher voltage regulator? Any viable non-dealer part numbers?
3) Any bean can maintenance I should be doing? I'm not sure I want to carry a complete ignition system, but perhaps it's a good idea.
Thank you all again for the thoughts, I'm sure it'll be an exciting ride.
Matt
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It is common for long distance Air head travelers to carry extra ignition parts and a rotor
The reason my reg and diode board are available anywhere is because I have converted to Delco 10SI parts
The stock voltage reg was actually used on a lot cars and industrial equipment and more than likely be had in a day
Here is a supplier that list all the cross references
http://store.alternatorparts.com/ib301a---voltage-regulator.aspx
I would at least carry a spare alternator rotor
I am running at 14.8 volts with the Delco reg.
I have a Odyssey battery so it is OK
The biggest boost you can give to your charging system is change over to all LED lights
I do think the higher voltage reg are better if you have an AGM battery
As far as the ignition system
Ignition modules are relatively cheap
Bean cans cost a lot more so it depends on your wallet
If your coil goes bad you can just get a pair 1.7 ohm coils at any parts store and wire them up just like the earlier R100 that had a bean can and just tape them to the frame
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I got the higher output regulator that Rick carries (Motorrad Elektrik) and I'm happy with it. There is a Bosch part number I found for it but couldn't find it anywhere else (except ebay and the prices for used weren't much cheaper than new). Seems like it was a little over $50 with shipping?
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I'm not sure what the BMW part number for this is but I'm positive that it's OEM. ::) I put this on when I needed something temporarily. If you don't have a voltmeter already but will be carrying a multimeter ........
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First let me say that I am incredibly jealous of you for getting to take a trip like that. I hope you are planning to blog your trip so that we can "ride " along with you.It is not exactly a maintenance item but something that I would not leave on a long trip without. I had a relatively new Odyssey Battery crap out on me one hot summers day about 200 miles from home. I was able to get home by the good graces of a Harley rider who let me use the battery charger in his transmission shop to get my bike started. I will not be leaving on another long trip without something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Bolt-Power-D28-Portable/dp/B015QHZ7VS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494560636&sr=8-2&keywords=bolt+battery+pack
The other thing that I carry is a can of tire seal/infiltrator. Some may disagree with using this stuff and I do carry a tire pump but I know that I might be able to change a tube in my garage but beside the road, forget it. If your route has you passing through the Portland area, get in touch, I'll buy you a beer. Oh, by the way Canadian Mist comes in plastic bottles that pack easily and are handy for those lonely nights beside the road. Happy Trails, David
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Like Davidpdx, I also always keep a battery jumpstart thing with me when I ride. I had a long period of charging woes and never knew when the battery would decide to crap out. That thing saved me a lot of pushing.
I can vouch for the Winplus brand (got mine at Costco). It works great for jumping and has enough juice to do it several times. I've also noticed that it can sit for a long time and but still hold a good charge. USB outlets are nice to charge a phone.
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We're not going to answer any more questions until we see more pictures of your VERY interesting ride! and details... ;) :) 8-)
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I have been bitten by the flakiness of the old style cigar fuses under the tank losing contact from lots of extended vibration, etc. I change my fuses out with similarly rated SAE blade-type fuses in rubber, waterproof holders - you can get these pre-wired with length of wire from your local auto parts store. I carry a spare SAE blade fuse with me, but if I don't have one, I know I can got into any walmart or Harbor freight or auto store and get replacements easily. Also, bring a decent (but not expensive) digital multimeter that you've used a few times so you know it works (and how to use it).
I wouldn't bother with a spare rotor. MAYBE a spare bean can in working order *IF* you happen to have one but if not, I wouldn't break my neck trying to get one. The autoclub or BMWMOA membership with towing/repair service and an Anonymous Book from BMWMOA will save you if you do manage to get into deep technical problems (or the Dairectory if you belong to airheads). I carry these with me so I have a list of phone #s of like minded brothers & sisters who are willing to help if I need it (so far haven't had to)
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Thank you all again for your help with this!
I've heeded your advice acquired the back-up battery and modern 7.5A fuse holders (as well as a dizzying array of other baubles, 80% of which I surely won't need...).
I've also made plans to upgrade lighting (two white driving lights on cylinder protection bars, running lights all around, red lenses on turn signals in rear, brake light flasher unit, 4-way flash), do a bunch more maintenance in the coming days (spline lube, tune carbs chief among them). I've planned the first few days so I'm never far from home base, or from the houses of friends who can serve as a base, given I'm making a lot of changes.
I recently went over all major electrical connections in the bike, cleaned and dielectric greased them, as well as testing the diode board (was fine) and checking alternator brushes.
I'll make a separate post about lighting upgrades and how I've chosen to go about that.
Until next,
Matt
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You should use LED driving lights and switch to a LED head light bulb
The stock charging system will be very marginal with all those lights if they aren't LED's
A permanent volt meter will be a must with standard lights so you can manage your power
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I did an IBA 50 hours coast to coast in 2006. I did major tuneup and spline lube before heading out Atlanta Jacksonville Sandiego. Once out on the west coast I went up to San Fran for a day and then to wise river Montana for a week of fishing. The return trip was down to Provo and then on To Grand Junction to Monument Pass 11212 feet elevation to Colorado Springs. Then two days back to Atlanta. The only thing i did to the bike on the road was check the tire pressures once and dump the oil in Dillon Montana. I didn't change the filter, just the oil. When I got home I had an extra 7,500 miles on the bike. Shortly after getting back I had the heads rebuilt as the exhaust valves were receding. They were sharp enough to shave with according to Boxerworks. About 65,000 miles when I got home. The bike is at 132,000 now with the original gearbox and spline. I'm pretty religious about doing the spline lube every 15,000 miles or so with Honda moly.
YRMV. :D
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Thanks for the tips again guys.
Yeah, all lighting aside from headlight and parking lamp is LED. I do have a couple of driving lights up front, too, as well as a voltage display. I run a headlight modulator which reduces effective draw, and I see mid-low 13s while running (not at the battery, using the stock voltage meter plug in the instrument cluster).
I do worry about receding valves...maybe I should check.