The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: wilcom on May 31, 2017, 07:22:41 PM
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I don't remember anyone moaning about removing the starter or reading about any tricks, Looked in the archives, nada,,,,,
I'm having an issue with the right side starter bolt. There is no room to put a wrench/spanner on it and I can't get a staright shot at it with a socket (pic). I tried a swivel but that is too bulky to get in there. At my present "angle of attack" I do not have enough socket on the nut to turn it. Need a better angle.
What am I missing?
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I think I used a regular screwdriver, to jamb the nut so it could be removed .
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I think I used a regular screwdriver, to jamb the nut so it could be removed .
Bob , I couldn't get a socket on it at all..... I finally got a 1/4 in drive 1/2 inch socket to seat of the nut. I then was able to angle the 1/4 in drive extension into the socket to get enough bite on it to break it lose.... that was shade tree at best.
Is there a special tool? a skinny swivel? I can't imagine a "real" BMW mechanic wedging an extension into a socket at a 30 degree angle to remove a nut.
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The pic below shows the offending piece of tranny metal webbing that keeps you from getting a good angle on the starter bolt. In actuality it is much more problematic than it looks in the pic. You can not get a socket on it.
i did look at a pic on snow bums site and the tranny/starter he was working on did not have that web in the corner....... it was a straight shot to the bolt....
"Shade Tree' Joe got it done, but would like to know what a real mechanic does for that bolt
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There aren't too many, but this may be one of those bolts on the bike that can "only" really be gotten off clean with a box-end wrench... and patience?
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box-end wrench... and patience?
You would have take some metal out of the block and grind the wrench down to paper thin.
I'd be more tempted to grind a notch in that web so I could get a straight shot at the bolt. I might do that tomorrow. I couldn't get much torque on the bolt. If it loosened up the starter might decide to go sideways and really screw something up, like eat the teeth on the starter ring gear :'(
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Joe
I used a 1/4" socket set with a very cheap extension I bought for the job, I then ground a big undercut on the "rear" flanks of the 1/4 drive so it in effect became a poor man's swivel.
The first time I did the job was with a single hex spanner that I heated up and bent so that I could get reasonable purchase on the nut and a second spanner that I did the undoing with. Patience is a virtue as they say
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Stop by HF and get a set of "wobble" extensions. They will give you 10-15 degrees of "flex" at the socket. I think I remember using a box-end on this...
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Stop by HF and get a set of "wobble" extensions.
Justin..... great idea!
Harbor freight just had the "impact" style which was still to big for the area I needed to work in. I found other other slicker wobblers online that that would have worked but they were all online to order and wait for the UPS truck. The word "patience" has been mentioned a couple of times and I'm sorry I will have to google that word as I have no idea what it means.......,
I got out the trusty grinder and filled the air with aluminum particles until my socket and exertion would grip the bolt. Seems to me the integrity of the tranny case was not compromised too much and now I can get to that bolt if there is ever a "next time".
Thanks guys for worrying thru this stumbling block with me.
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To clarify my original post, I put a large flat blade screwdriver between the bolt head and engine case, not on the nut .
For those of you that have not removed a starter before, there are nuts on the forward side of the starter, so you just need to keep the bolt head from turning while loosening the nut .
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Stop by HF and get a set of "wobble" extensions. They will give you 10-15 degrees of "flex" at the socket. I think I remember using a box-end on this...
That's what I and my grinder did to a couple of cheap (what you would call "dime store") 1/4" extensions - worked well
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there are nuts on the forward side of the starter,
When you put in a Valeo starter replacing the Bosch the Valeo has threaded ears and you will use the same bolts but put in from the front of the starter and screwing into the valeo ears. The Bosch starter just had holes in the ears, hence the need for nuts
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Alright, you just explained why this was a major issue !!! ;D
I have the original Bosch starters on the R65's .
You could drill out the threads on the starter ears and use the OEM hardware or longer bolts if necessary and nuts .
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That's what I and my grinder did to a couple of cheap (what you would call "dime store") 1/4" extensions - worked well
Dang! Finally somebody cheaper, err, more frugal than I am!!! I got a set 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" (3 of each) on sale with a coupon for only a few bux - they've been really handy a few times.