The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Julio A. on August 31, 2016, 09:43:45 AM
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I stored by bike unused for two weeks. It started right back up when I needed to use it again but I found out my headlights won't turn on. Hi beam and Low beam won't work. The bulb is ok, the fuses are ok, I checked for obvious loose wiring and everything checked out fine. I did notice that my "pass to flash" flasher switch works though. I WD-40'd and contact cleaner'ed the switches and made sure there aren't any problems caused by corrosion.
I'm lost for ideas on where to look next.
Any Ideas?
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Any Ideas?
If you passing flasher is working you must have good battery to the switch and a good path to the headlight from the switch........ I'd stay at the switch and do some more investigating.
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If you don't find any problems with the headlight switch or associated wiring .
I thought of another possibility, if I'm not mistaken, you have a North American spec bike .
On these bikes, there is a relay that shuts off the headlights when the starter is in operation .
It's an odd relay, in the unpowered, or relaxed position, the electrical contacts are making contact allowing power to the headlight switch for low beam and high beam, the passing position isn't powered from this relay, when the start button is pressed, there is a jumper wire from the start relay to the headlight relay, it gets powered and the contacts open shutting off the power to the headlight switch .
If you don't find any other causes, you may want to investigate this .
Hope I didn't confuse you too much !!! :D
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Bob may be onto something - but if your bike isn't wired the North American market way, then it isn't the case. According to my Haynes manual - which may be or may not be accurate, indicates the wire from the special 4 terminal relay is the yellow wire feeding the light switch at its terminal 56, coming from the relay's terminal 87.
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Thanks for the input guys.
Bob, my Bike is a european market spec.
nhmaf, this relay you were referring to, where can I find it?
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If you do have a Euro spec without the head light relay it is fairly simple
We know you have power to the Ignition switch because it will start
Next we need check for power out of the ignition switch when in the headlight "ON" position that would be a yellow and white wire
Jf power out = IGN SW is good
Next check for power out of the red connector on the yellow and white wire
Power out = connector good
If you have power coming out of the red connector then more than likely the switch is bad or the wire to the headlight switch is bad
Of course if the Yellow and white wire is broken or cut anywhere along the circuit you will have a problem
Because the "Pass Flash" works we know the headlight and wires from the switch to the head light are good and the earth circuit is good
Don't worry about any fuses because the headlight circuit doesn't have one unless some one added them
That would be a good idea to do if it hasn't been done
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If you don't find any problems with the headlight switch or associated wiring .
I thought of another possibility, if I'm not mistaken, you have a North American spec bike .
On these bikes, there is a relay that shuts off the headlights when the starter is in operation .
It's an odd relay, in the unpowered, or relaxed position, the electrical contacts are making contact allowing power to the headlight switch for low beam and high beam, the passing position isn't powered from this relay, when the start button is pressed, there is a jumper wire from the start relay to the headlight relay, it gets powered and the contacts open shutting off the power to the headlight switch .
If you don't find any other causes, you may want to investigate this .
Hope I didn't confuse you too much !!! :D
You don't have it quite right
The head light relay uses the normally open contacts to power up the headlights
Meaning it closes when the ignition is turned on and opens when the starter is energized
The Head light relay gets its ground thru the starter solenoid coil
So when the starter is energized it goes positive causing the headlight relay to open and the headlights to shut off
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Wow, now I'm confused. The diagram says the Headlight switch and Ign switch are two separate units? Isn't the Ignition switch ALSO the Headlight switch? I'm tearing the bike down tomorrow. hopefully I find something to enlighten me there. hahaha
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Isn't the Ignition switch ALSO the Headlight switch
Headlight switch and Ign switch are two separate units
The headlight switch would be the hi/low beam switch on the handle bar.
Because your flasher works proves that you have battery to the switch and the hi beam path to the headlight is also good.
The contacts inside the headlight switch that provide battery to the low and high beam should be investigated.
Your ignition switch is doing every thing it needs to do, bike cranks and runs and is extending battery to your headlight switch
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The pass flash circuit draws its power from the key switch on a different terminal than the normal high beam and low beam circuit
So this means the key switch could still be bad
If you do not understand electrical schematics and cant use a volt meter or test light then you will just have to replace parts
If that is the case I would start with replacing the handle bar mounted dip switch first and the key switch second
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Hey Julio (and all you good folk reading this!)
Did you resolve this and was it your key switch? I've got the same problem, been on and off for a while but now mostly have no headlight, apart from the 'flash to pass' as you had, although that's getting less reliable too.. Wondering if I have a relay also but 'flash to pass' light doesn't cut out when using the starter. Not sure what the relay would look like, have identified the indicators unit but not sure what the grey relay is next to it. Didn't get time today to investigate the red connector. My bike is the same as Australian models. I kinda want to investigate without having to do that annoying job of removing the instrument crash pad so really just wondering if someone can tell me whether my bike had a headlight relay. Also if it is the key switch what would be the best way of hard wiring the headlight handlebar switch to by pass the key switch. Cheers all!
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I found and fixed the source of my headlight problem Julio, it was the female spade terminal of the yellow/white wire that fits onto the key switch at the last position, it was dodgy and not letting enough current through to power the bulb. It looked fine too. Took me ages to find it as the source of the problem as it still had trace voltage so it looked OK with a voltmeter. Of course I dismantled everything else before I discovered it, including the b#stard handlebar switch to clean the contacts! Not recommended!!!! I was lucky to come away with a switch able to be completely put back together, watch out for a tiny ball bearing that will pop out! Somehow it ended up in my hand otherwise it would've gone into orbit. That handlebar switch is a real time waster!
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Took me ages to find it as the source of the problem as it still had trace voltage so it looked OK with a voltmeter.
That is why you have to do your voltage checks with the circuit under load
If you would have back stabbed the female connector hooked up to the switch and the head lights on
The voltage drop should have shown up
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If you have a headlight relay it should be located like this
Unless some one has moved it
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That is why you have to do your voltage checks with the circuit under load
If you would have back stabbed the female connector hooked up to the switch and the head lights on
The voltage drop should have shown up
OK think I got you Mrclubike you mean by 'backstab' run a wire off the battery pos and hit the connectors to see what happens a each stage yeah that's a good tip (as long as you're carefull not to short it!).
No headlight relay on my bike, I should've just waited to check where the wires went, bit of a pointless question. Thanks for your info!
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That is why you have to do your voltage checks with the circuit under load
If you would have back stabbed the female connector hooked up to the switch and the head lights on
The voltage drop should have shown up
OK think I got you Mrclubike you mean by 'backstab' run a wire off the battery pos and hit the connectors to see what happens a each stage yeah that's a good tip (as long as you're carefull not to short it!).
No headlight relay on my bike, I should've just waited to check where the wires went, bit of a pointless question. Thanks for your info!
That is the way to do it with a hot wire if you do not have a volt meter
But I was actually talking about using your volt meter
Put the Black lead of the volt meter to battery negative and back stab the connector on the key switch with the red lead of the volt meter. (With the lights turned on"loading the circuit")
If you would have seen battery voltage roughly 12 volts you know the connection and key switch is good
But in your case you would have seen a lot less than battery voltage and then know that is were your problem is
Hope that helps in the future :)