The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: jp9094 on October 06, 2016, 03:10:08 PM
-
I know that removing the seat lock ( to code a key that works) should be fairly simple as there are only 3 screws that need to be removed.
When I tried to access them, I found the rear fender in the way. I acquired an offset Philips head driver, but it only worked on the most forward located screw. The more posterior screw was still blocked by the fender.
My Clymer manual says to remove the wheel, taillight assembly and the fender! Seems like a lot of work to me. It occurred to me that if I unbolted the fender and let it drop onto the back tire it might create enough room to access the screw heads?
Has anyone had any experience with this? Is there another workaround for this problem? Any and all help appreciated.
-
If the screws have never been removed since the bike was built and that most likely is the case, they may be difficult to remove .
I had to remove the bolts for the rear fender and move it out of the way, to get to the last screw that refused to loosen the first time I had to remove the lock, due to it's spinning .
I never use the the seat lock anymore .
But the bike is either in the garage, or in secure parking at work .
-
The seat lock removal is truly a labor intensive chore. I learned this the really, really hard way when I first used the helmet hook on the subframe on my newly accquired R100S. The freaking key would not unlock the seat! Lock is negative function. Helmet blocks any access so first order was to cut away the hook and get my helmet free.
After spending way too much time getting the seat off and the lock box removed, I did a small mod that allows the screws to be removed from the outside. Sure, you might say that someone could now get into the tool tray but I doubt it. What I did was:
Used a thin, cut-off wheel in the Dremel to cut a slot in the bitter end of the troublesome screws. Painted the screws ends black to match the chassis and lock, then reassembled everything. Now, if for some reason the latch button fails, a small flat-blade driver releases the lock assembly. As it sits, the modified screws are not noticeable... except to you guys.
-
Smart thinking montmil. My lock is moving around its a job i need to look at.
-
I didn't have to remove the wheel but I did drop the fender. IIRC, I don't think that I had to remove it, just took the bolts out and moved it just enough to get better access. It was one of the first things I did and didn't have a manual or any directions to follow. It was a little bit of a pain but not too difficult. I think I used a combination of an offset screwdriver and one of those tiny finger socket things that take a 1/4" bit.
Montmil's idea is a good one. I thought of doing something similar but lost my ambition that night, then decided that I'd hope I wouldn't be doing that again any time soon.