The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Mainerider on June 13, 2016, 07:42:21 PM
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I think I have the Euro styled handlebars on my '81 R65. They are narrow and low. I'll be remounting the Veloorex sidecar soon and I'd like to have the taller wider bars. How big a deal is this? Would there be a lines and cables to replace or do you just unbolt everything and bolt it back to the new bars?
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I switched to half rise bars after the flat euro bars on my LS started to make my buggered wrist hurt like a bastard and the standard cables fitted fine when I changed to the higher bars. As far as I know you'll only have to replace the cables if you fit RT bars.
(I've still got the flat bars and an unmodified clock shroud/fairing upper should I ever want to convert her back to stock bars.)
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I fit RT bars to my 82 R65 (not LS)
I was able to do it without replacing any cables , wires or brake lines
But I did run into a problem getting the clutch cable run under the dash pad at a gentle angle
So I had to do this :o
It doesn't look that bad in person
I used a UNIBIT to drill the hole
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When changing bars on a BMW, be absolutely positive you purchase 22mm bars. Do Not attempt to use 7/8-inch bars as they will not fit the BMW perches. The usual results are cracked perches and big dollars flying out of your pocket.
My 1978 R100S had w-i-d-e handlebars installed when I bought it. Think street tracker wide. Some fool had poorly reamed the OEM castings and forced on 7/8" bars. When I went back to the correct "S" bars, I had to source new perches. Arghhh $$$
Check the Flanders Co for their BMW bends. They have many 22mm selections and all are shown with full specs.
http://www.flandersco.com
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Mine come off of Ebay
I think around $40.00US plus shipping
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Mine come off of Ebay
I think around $40.00US plus shipping
I also checked fleaBay to no avail.
Bought a like new used pair of R90S OEMs from Larry Stonestreet @ Stoner's Stash.
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I reamed out the perches to accommodate 7/8 bars and it's worked great. I couldn't deal with spending $100 more for 22 mm bars.
The hardest part was reaming the alu throttle grip tube but care and patience won out.
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I mounted some taller bars today. I'm very happy with them. It was tight getting them on but I didn't need any new cables. It makes for a much more comfortable riding position. No weight on the wrists and forearms.
I found them on ebay for $75 including shipping. They came from a '79 R65. We took Trevor out tonight for a Lobster dinner in Freeport, he totally approves. :)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi146.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fr241%2Fbauerdad%2F2016%2FEB1DC7B4-5FB7-4694-A081-0D9DA6C87F4A_zpsct4iupfz.jpg&hash=06ffce62c575197a129e58469f8712143a207f1d)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi146.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fr241%2Fbauerdad%2F2016%2FD83DB093-3869-4227-8AF9-FBACFCD70C72_zpsnmsw5jnm.jpg&hash=2d8bbbd95ef6a9cc74280469a59befe73a501000)
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Would you have the specs on the bars you just mounted. I have an 83 r65 LS and the bars on the bike are a pain on my arms and wrists. I feel like my arms are in full extension when I ride no mater my position on the bike. Makes for a tiring ride. I was told they are not the original low bars that came stock. I need something a bit higher and extended back toward the rider a bit more. I also dont want to have to change the cables. Any suggestions?
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I've been looking at doing the same thing. I have sourced some taller bars from LamontSanfurd. At the risk of sounding stupid, I'll ask anyway - how do you know when you've hit the limit for cable lengths? I'm sure there is more to it than just making sure you have enough slack to turn the bars.
I have a sidecar set up as well and think that the taller ones will make turning easier, along with a little more of a comfortable riding position.
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how do you know when you've hit the limit for cable lengths?I'm sure there is more to it than just making sure you have enough slack to turn the bars.
With the engine at idle turn the bars lock to lock. If the idle revs rise the cables are too short. Also check that some free play at the clutch cable is maintained.
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Thanks Barry, that sounds simple enough. I was especially wondering about the clutch since I know that it can be sensitive to its position and bends. And I had just read another post from Montmil about adjustment and he had mentioned that the angle or bend at a certain spot was important to maintain.
I'm not knowledgeable enough to know if what I have is all original but I'm assuming it is. The bars I bought were not a whole lot bigger so I was hoping it would be a straight swap. But I know things are never that simple, at least not for me (and with anything German).
Cheers
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One reason I went ahead and ordered the new bars was that I had just replaced the clutch cable and the new one seemed plenty long.