The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Billmc on March 27, 2016, 10:46:34 PM
-
Evening all! New to this forum and to BMW. Just bought a 1987 R65 2 days ago with 25K miles on it that has been sitting for a couple of years.
It takes a very long time to crank( 15 to 30 seconds) and then catches irregularly; by that I mean it will start but barely, then dies then cranks less, catch and repeats for a number of tries until it finally runs and idles. Takes a couple of minutes at idle before I can touch the throttle and then only a little until it is fully warmed, like 5 minutes. Once warmed and finished with its backfiring, it does smooth out and pulls strongly. I don't touch the choke, Its 75 degrees here! This is all while it is cool as once its warmed up it restarts ok.
Any ideas what I need to look at ? I just ordered the Clymer manual.
Also after a short run and bringing it back to the garage it was smoking out of both pipes a pretty substantial amount of white smoke as it dropped RPMs . It was not smoking while running on the road.
I do appreciate any advice. Looking forward to learning and enjoying this very interesting machine!
-
What do the spark plugs look like and/or how old are they? Could be that they're dirty or just too old. Mine had been in the packaging under the seat for 10 years without being used at all and it was a pig to start with them in. With brand new plugs it started and ran easily. I'm not saying this is the cause of your issue, but it's the first place that I'd be looking. Plugs for anything with a bit of age behind it are usually dirt cheap. 2 new R65 plugs only set me back about $10.00 AUD. Turns out that solved the starting/running problem.
-
After a couple of years it has to be due a carb clean unless it was stored with the carbs empty. You can drop the bowls and remove the main jet/holder and the pilot jet without disturbing any settings at all. If you find any gunk in there then a more thorough clean is on the cards.
-
After a couple of years it has to be due a carb clean unless it was stored with the carbs empty. You can drop the bowls and remove the main jet/holder and the pilot jet without disturbing any settings at all. If you find any gunk in there then a more thorough clean is on the cards.
Welcome, Bill. Good to have another Texican join the herd.
As Barry says, the Bings are quite likely 'varnished' with evaporated fuel. There's also that tiny, brass "jet" in the enrichener reservoir that is easily fouled by evaporated fuel gum. Poke a thin single strand of copper wire through it. If closed off, the bike will be difficult to start when cold as no fuel passes through the enrichener/choke circuit.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520Carbs%2Fbowlvent.jpg&hash=38300e8a3038588d19bd27366129db6a328c37c4) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/montmil/media/BMW%20Carbs/bowlvent.jpg.html)
Betcha you didn't know there are small 'carburetors' attached to the Bings.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520Carbs%2Fenrichener01.jpg&hash=0b0ed89fe694816ec33c8ecd44edc329b82ec33e) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/montmil/media/BMW%20Carbs/enrichener01.jpg.html)
-
I don't touch the choke...
Touch it.
Your battery, starter and engine will thank you.
-
Thanks everyone glad to be here, and glad to see such speedy response. I am on the AlfaBB as well and that is also a great community!
I will take a look at the plugs when I get home this evening and then do a more thorough exam of the Bings. Been a while since I messed with carbs but will give it a shot. May just pull them and do the whole rebuild. I know I am going to have to pull the tank and give it a clean-out too.
Will keep you updated and will post Pics of my new ride soon.
Thanks again.
-
Just a quick follow-up: The tank is rusted, the extra filters are clogged, the carbs are full of junk from the tank not letting the correct amount of fuel in and the jets are plugged. So off comes the tank and the carbs for a thorough cleaning and re-setting.
I do have another question: is the shock-spring assembly on an '87 supposed to be loose and turn? My spring is just bouncing around up and down with no attachment to anything. Doesn't seem right....
-
...My spring is just bouncing around up and down with no attachment to anything. Doesn't seem right....
That's definitely NOT right. Maybe check the parts fiche for your monoshocker and discover what's missing, adrift or incorrectly installed. Be safe. Park it until it's set right.
-
A couple of picts, since AI know we all like pictures.
-
Ok that didn't work. Any ideas on how to post pictures?
-
Posting pictures is easy enough, you have two choices:
1. click the insert image icon then add a URL to a remotely hosted image file.
2. Attach an image from your own computer by uploading it to this site using the browse button under attachments.
I think there is restriction that you need a minimum number of posts before being able to add attachments. Don't know the number but it could well be 5 so give it another try.
-
Trying again...
-
A new question or two: As you can see in the photos, the black paint on the frame, accessory racks, headlight and bracket, and front shocks is 'hazy' and/or faded. I really cant tell what level of SHINE this is supposed to be. I would think 'gloss' would be the best for upkeep but I can't tell what the factory used. Even after removing the front shock reflectors and cleaning the paint there, I still have conflicting views. Any ideas?
Thanks, Bill
-
Many Airhead folks, myself included, have had success in using a rattle can Satin Black -not flat black nor gloss. I've used different brands including the Ace Hardware store brand. Happy with the results.
Be advised, this can be a trap! One thing leads to another and you might end up spending more time sanding, priming and painting rather than riding the Gulf Coast. My 1981 R65 could use a refresh on the aft subframe. Been resisting for several years now.
Did you get the rear shock spring sorted?
-
Hi Lads,
last summer, my 1982 R65 was winning because the frame showed the bare metal on some parts of the frame.
So I decided to dismantle it entirely and have it powder coated.
Front headlight support, main frame, starter cover, air box, battery holder, footrests, sub frame, and swing arm where sent to paint stripping and powder coat with a RAL semi satin black.
The outcome is FABULOUS and the cost was 279 € for the whole lot. All cleaning, stripping included.
The result make the bike look new !
-
My 1978 R100S is total gloss black powdercoat. Looks snazzy.
Fortunately, I was not the one who paid for it.
-
...
Did you get the rear shock spring sorted?
Its off and I'm checking it out. I believe the setting ring at the bottom of the shock was at minimum because when I rotated it to the 1st notch the looseness went away. Seems to have good compression and rebound. I will wait on making a replacement decision until after reassembly and road testing. Any idea on factory 'style' replacement?
I'm a 3-daughters-in-college penny pincher, and I don't want to spend more for a new performance shock then I did for the whole bike. ::)
-
Thanks for the replies and as always, as in most forums, lots of differing opinions.
I'm leaning toward gloss black mainly because of the Gulf Coast environment it will be living in. Just easier to keep clean and to shed the salt air/vapor mix. But I am going to shoot a few places with satin to see how that looks first. I really can' tell what the factory did 30 years ago because everything is dulled, rusty or faded.
Dovetailing on that, the front forks were painted black from the boots down and up to the tree. When I power washed them, most of the paint came off exposing somewhat oxidized aluminum. I will finish the stripping of the paint with chemicals and elbow grease, clean the aluminum and then evaluate weather to repaint or polish.
Any thoughts? I'm not hung up on total originality. I'm even thinking about changing from the Polaris Silver body to black or Alfa Romeo red to match my car....
-
3 months later and I have a "refreshed" R65! I'll post picts later but in the mean time, any idea why I have an over full with "butterscotch" driveshaft housing and transmission? I popped the fill caps to check them and the diff housing was almost empty but with clear fluid, the driveshaft housing and the transmission overflowed with watery light tan fluid. I drained them all and flushed with new and then filled with the correct type and level but just wondering how those two areas became water logged? Could that much water get in through the clutch cable cover?
-
If the bike gets rained on a lot or washed, it doesn't take much water getting by the rubber boot that covers the speedometer cable to contaminate the oil .
I replace the boot every 2-3 years, the desert heat here is tough on rubber parts .
My R65's rarely get washed and even more rare that they are out in the rain, haven't had this issue since '94, before that, I couldn't figure out how the water was getting in there !!!!! >:(
Clear coating your paint job may lengthen it's life, my '81 R65 has a clear coat from the factory and still looks pretty good 37 years alter .