The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: badgertom on May 02, 2016, 06:22:06 PM
-
Am I correct in assuming that on my 1982 R65 there are two through bolts which mount the engine to the frame? One through bolt is at the forward part of the engine and the other is in the rear. So if I want to move the engine forward I would have to remove the bolts altogether.
( I'm planning to grease the spline and one way is to move the engine
about 1/2 to 3/4 in forward).
-
I found it much better to move the transmission than the engine. I loosened the motor mounts to mount crash bars and can not get rid of a slight vibration that showed up.
-
You're correct on the motor mount bolts, BT. Not sure how far forward you'll be able to move the engine without snagging something or pulling loose some wiring.
Most folks that do the quick n' dirty spline lube move the trans aft rather than the engine forward. Either way, you cannot do a proper clean and lube without completely removing the transmission. The basic issue is the inability to reach areas where old grease has packed into the transmission cavity.
What moly grease do you plan on using?
-
I remove the swingarm, might be a bit of work the first time, but I've got it down to an hour and 35 minutes to remove the transmission from the bike .
-
I remove the swingarm, might be a bit of work the first time, but I've got it down to an hour and 35 minutes to remove the transmission from the bike .
I was going to post about how if you remove the battery box and the rear sub-frame bolts you can then waltz the whole lot with gearbox attached at the drive shaft back far enough to use a long-handled toothbrush to lube the spines.
But, these machines are no longer young and most of us have little idea how pedantic our POs have been with maintenance.
so I changed my mind, in fact for the relatively low costs involved I would pre-order a clutch plate, rear main seal, oil pump O ring, and gearbox front and rear seal.
If the rear gearbox seal is not leaking I'd almost be inclined to leave it alone as it can (just) be done on the bike if needed - the other seals are just good and proper insurance. Clutch plates may have corrosion around the rivets and the friction material degrades with time so a new plate into a clutch that was otherwise operating happily is cheap insurance.
A tool to press in the rear engine seal can be had relatively inexpensively, the tool to remove the drive flange is more expensive (as I posses a somewhat "formidable" three jaw puller I simply made a plate (it started life as the un-needed center from a blank rear sprocket for something big) that bolted to the drive flange that I could then get purchase on with my gear puller. The cost of the tool to do the drive flange is the main reason I wouldn't disturb it unless I really felt I had to.
-
Hello !
Actually moving th engine forward is the latest method advised in the factory manual, just before it disappeared in oblivion.
It is easy, provided you detach the header pipes from the mufflers... but won't give you enough room to stick your arm in.