The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Matt Chapter on January 19, 2016, 10:29:47 AM
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Hint: The item in question is in the middle of the photo.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1494/24081009809_f7c042fdd2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CFXtfi)
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Dipstick is close to the middle
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Recent tranny work so I'm going to guess <drum roll, please> CLUTCH.
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Recent tranny work so I'm going to guess <drum roll, please> CLUTCH.
Or what he broke taking the transmission off???
Looks to me like there is a chunk of aluminum that has been repaired in the engine case/bell housing just below the timing plug.
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Broke the clip off the airbox ?
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It's the damn fuel line that goes under the airbox. Had some leaky line from tank to filter so figured I'd swap it all out at once. Such a frustrating repair to undertake, mostly consisted of taking things apart to get to the line.
The clutch seems fine, as far as I can tell! No repairs to the engine case, I think those streaks are gasoline / crud residue. All of the airbox clips jumped overboard during the repair, but none of them broke.
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I've replaced the rubber fuel line under the airbox, with .250 inch diameter steel tubing that's about 6 ish mm, I used brake lines from an auto store .
I agree, way too much work involved to replace a rubber fuel line !!!!
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When I replaced my fuel line I used a length of stiff wire from a coat hanger. Slid it in from one side and slid the fuel line over it from the other side. No problem finding the hole on the other side. Took about 5 minutes of wiggling and didn't have to remove anything.
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When I replaced my fuel line I used a length of stiff wire from a coat hanger. Slid it in from one side and slid the fuel line over it from the other side. No problem finding the hole on the other side. Took about 5 minutes of wiggling and didn't have to remove anything.
He beat me to it!
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You get the credit Monte. I didn't come up with it. I'm pretty sure I got it from one of your posts from a while ago.
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I tried the easy way (this ain't my first rodeo), but the outer diameter of the fuel line I acquired was ever so slightly too big.
Next time I'm going with Bob's steel pipe idea, wish I had thought of it this time. How did you make sure the T fitting stays in the pipe?
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Last time I changed my fuel lines I switched to an ethanol resistant Tygon fuel line I picked up at the local mower repair shop. Thinner walled line so there was no problem snaking it through. And it hasn't started to break down yet.
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The data I have on the correct size fuel line is 7mm ID x 11mm OD. A lot of fuel line available these days is the high pressure reinforced type intended for fuel injection systems and that can have an OD that's too big.
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I replaced that section of line on my bike using the high pressure type which would not thread through, but I did it as an add on to a larger project when I pulled the transmission to replace the neutral switch, and lube the input splines. It was a snug fit, but I'm hoping it will last a good long time.
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A lot of fuel line available these days is the high pressure reinforced type intended for fuel injection systems and that can have an OD that's too big.
Ding Ding. That's what I get for going to the FLAPS.
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Am I the only one that has used a fine-cut chain saw file to slightly open up the passage for the larger O.D. high-pressure fuel line? Does not require the removal of too much aluminum to create an airtight yet easier to service pass through.
With an almost total absence of carburetors on both 4-wheelers and motorcycles, there are fewer sources for the thinner-walled, low pressure fuel hose. Just another joy of owning classic -and now near vintage class- BMWs.
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I have no problem getting regular fuel line at either a chain type auto parts store, or NAPA .