The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: skippyc on January 06, 2016, 09:21:01 PM
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I had to change the sump gasket for a roadworthy, as it was leaking. I did this in a hurry before researching this site. The new gasket leaks now as well. I put avaitation gasket Goog on it hoping it would be a good sealer.
The leak is at the curved in bit. I have measured the old gasket at that point and there is a .30mm taper inside to outside and the inside is .15mm bigger than the rest of it. It seems that this difference can cause an oil leak.
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You could clean everything up really good and use some silicone on both sides. Let it cure overnight and it should be good. If the tapering part is on the pan you cold put some sandpaper on a piece of glass and sun the pan over it in a figure 8 pattern and lap the surface flat.
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Don't know how much clearance there is between the bottom of the pan and the pickup screen
But if possible I would get rid of the gasket altogether and just use Ultra grey or Ultra black silicone. Do not use to much.
And do not use the old type silicone sealers they are to stringy and can clog up your pick up screen or small passages in the oiling system
It will not leak at all after doing that
But be warned you will have more difficulty removing it if you ever need to take it off
Putting silicone on both sides of a gasket can be tricky. The gasket may want to squeeze out.
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A new stock pan gasket is fairly rigid, quite thick, and rather hard so I doubt there would be much chance of squeezing it out. That being said ,though, after one swipe of the pan over the sandpaper should show if the problem is the pan. If the pan he can probably just use the silicone on the pan side.
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You can try one of these silicone gaskets. I am sure they would ship to Oz and I have never had one fail on me.
http://www.realgaskets.com/files/motorcycle.htm
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Thanks for the replies, I will get to it a bit later. It does seem a pity that the gaskets are so hard and don't conform to irregularity's.
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Markmax, My '81 R100 had the orange silicone valve cover gaskets when I first bought it and they seemed to want to "squirt" if I didn't hold my mouth just right when tightening. Maybe the wider oil pan gasket might be a little easier to get along with...
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Interesting note about the silicone rocker box gaskets from Real Gaskets. The instructions accompanying the gaskets state that the gasket must be washed in warm, soapy water to remove all traces of oil and allowed to dry prior to refit. Oil pan gasket likely the same protocol.
I have a pair on one of my R65s that cured a pesky weep; even after surfacing the cover. Valve adjustment procedure now means, Step 1: Wash gaskets...
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The instructions accompanying the gaskets state that the gasket must be washed in warm, soapy water to remove all traces of oil and allowed to dry prior to refit. Oil pan gasket likely the same protocol.
Ah Ha!
I fitted a set of silicone gaskets and they worked a treat. Then after the first valve adjustment (and the discovery that my cylinder heads have a certain Plasticine quality to them) they leaked, squeeezed out of position and myriad other things.
I replaced them with doubled up standard gaskets.
Perhaps if I had known to degrease them my problems may have been less.
Thank you Sir.
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The instructions accompanying the gaskets state that the gasket must be washed in warm, soapy water to remove all traces of oil and allowed to dry prior to refit. Oil pan gasket likely the same protocol.
Ah Ha!
I fitted a set of silicone gaskets and they worked a treat. Then after the first valve adjustment (and the discovery that my cylinder heads have a certain Plasticine quality to them) they leaked, squeeezed out of position and myriad other things.
I replaced them with doubled up standard gaskets.
Perhaps if I had known to degrease them my problems may have been less.
Thank you Sir.
And my wife says I don't take direction well. ;D
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Tony, that was my experience as well! I just resurfaced my covers and went back to stock gaskets and I'm pretty sure I tossed the silicone ones! Never occurred to me to look for instructions on how to use a freakin' gasket!
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Tony, that was my experience as well! I just resurfaced my covers and went back to stock gaskets and I'm pretty sure I tossed the silicone ones! Never occurred to me to look for instructions on how to use a freakin' gasket!
Thank you, I feel less foolish
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New Sump gaskets are said to have heat activated adhesive on one side which should go uppermost. That suggests completely clean and dry assembly needed as per Monte's comments.
I actually have a spare sump gasket which came with the bike but have never fitted it because the sump doesn't leak. Must have a look at it to see if I can figure out which side has the adhesive.
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Now you tell me! So the silicon rocker cover gasket needs washing before reuse? I fitted silicon Real Gaskets about 8,000 km ago, then checked clearances again a few weeks back. Looks like my gaskets have sealed up fine despite going back on oily.
I guess I will have to retract this statement very soon!
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Factory Gasket have a coating that helps seal with heat. The Real Gasket (silicone) do not. The Real Gaskets can be over torqued and can leak when this happens. Even the factory torque could be to much.
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After getting my sump pan welded to fix a couple of cracks from bottoming out off road (damn should've seen that corner!), I used a new OEM gasket and Hylomar blue sealant, as suggested by the Clymer manual. Although I didn't check if the sump pan was warped, it has not leaked for two years.
Not sure if you've already tried the hylomar blue as I recall reading it was originally used as an aviation sealant but it's not very expensive. The torque setting for the sump bolts is low - only 9Nm.
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After getting my sump pan welded to fix a couple of cracks from bottoming out off road (damn should've seen that corner!), I used a new OEM gasket and Hylomar blue sealant, as suggested by the Clymer manual. Although I didn't check if the sump pan was warped, it has not leaked for two years.
The rather extensive bolting arrangements on the sump will nicely take care of anything short of outrageous warping.
I really should either replace my sump or have it welded properly too. Preferred course is to buy a good 2nd hand one and then get mine fixed so that it can later be put on the R100.
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Hello Tunnelrider,
Actually, the torque is quite high. Bear in mind that they are 6 mm dia steel bolts in an aluminum thread.
It is far not uncommon to find some or all of these threads to have been stripped off. And, as it is difficult to put the bike upside down, not easy to Heli Coil them ;-)
I've a friend of mine who bought a very small preset torque wrench just for that purpose. He stripped all of the thread previously and had to remove the engine from the bike to have the thread repaired... Learn from your mistakes that is :(