The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Zamp on April 16, 2015, 04:55:17 PM
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Any suggestions on where I can get some steel braided brake lines for my 84 65ls. I recently got the bike, and see the bars are standard high, not original. I called Bob's BMW, and they suggested standard R65 kit, but isn't that for single disk front?
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You're probably going to have problems getting a set of lines for a dual disc with high bars .
You most likely will get a set for an LS with short bars .
Here's a suggestion for a source .
http://spieglerusa.com/
Call them up and tell them what you have .
Worst case scenario, is to send them the lines and they will fabricate new ones for you exactly the same as the ones that came off, with the exception, that all the hose ends will most likely have ' banjo ' fittings and hollow bolts, not threaded fittings .
Price is around $140US, plus shipping .
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You can also try here... http://www.pashnit.com/product/index.html and they are located in your state. I bought a set of Galfer stainless lines from them for my R65LS with standard high bars. While I no longer have the LS fairing I had no fitment problems at all. If you check the fitment page there is a specific set for R65LS dual brakes. I have had them installed for a couple of years now and it was the best investment in braking I have made.
You can get them in standard stainless or all sorts of colors for the covering over the stainless hose. They also can add colored banjo fittings if you are trying for a specific color scheme. All the extras add extra $$ to the price.
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If, and I stress the word "IF" you have a standard braking system for your year/model then you have:-
A rubber hose from the master cylinder to a point adjacent to the left hand handbar mount where the rubber hoses attaches to a roughly "U" shaped steel pipe. The steel pipe is connected to a bronze "splitter" which is bolted to the headlight/instrument support bracket. The "splitter" has a brake switch and two rubber hoses attached to it - the rubber hoses head downwards until they meet a steel pipe fitting which in turn connects to the caliper.
If you have this system, then all you need change to allow for higher bars is the hose from the master cylinder to the "U" pipe.
If you do not have a system as above then a PO has messed with it and you are on your own.
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The standard LS setup, is one rubber line from the master cylinder, to the brake line splitter, behind the head light bucket .
Both ends of the line , if it is stock, has banjo fittings on each end .
If a previous owner replaced the handlebars, hard to say what you may have there .
Suggestion, is to remove what needs to be, get a good look at your particular setup is .
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thanks everyone for your suggestions on steel braided lines. I am considering also changing the rotors, the ones that came on the bike are grooved quite a bit. That and new pads hopefully will improve braking substantially. I ride LA freeways to get to fun mountain road. Can use all the braking I can get, and yesterday a good size deer crossed my path on Hwy 2. Thanks again
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Don't expect a dramatic increase in braking power, with new lines, rotors and pads .
This is the only area of the R65, that I would like to see get better, the stock set up is not the most powerful brake system .
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I had my coated steel brake lines for my 82 LS made to fit at an automotive performance plumbing supply shop. Cost me about $115.
Don't know where you are in LA but I took my old lines to Earls Performance Plumbing shop in Lawndale. It's right off the 405 at Hawthorne Blvd. He did the job in about 45 min. He recommended not to get the clear coated, that they yellow over time and look bad. Got the brown coated... look great.
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I got a set for my LS, on standard LS bars, from Motobins, they cost about £80, and were a doodle to fit. The braided lines do improve performance, but not massively, and like Bob said its the one area where BMW got it wrong.
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After all the years and miles I spent on my 1953 Triumph, I believe the R65 has bloody marvelous brakes. :D
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I fitted high bars on my R65 and fitted braided lines, the pipe from the master cylinder to the brass splitter I had fabricated by a local hydraulic hose supplier. its a standard 1/4inch BSP male end with a 1/4inch "banjo" bolt fitting to the master cylinder.
Lou
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As a newest owner of the R65LS, it may be only guessing as to the maintenance performed by the PO.
Before spending too much dinero, suggest removing the disc brake pads and checking their condition. They may be worn thin, oil or hyd fluid soaked or the wrong compound. EBC produces an organic pad for the R65 that is quite good. Avoid any metallic impregnated pads as they do rapidly wear the BMW's stainless brake disc/s.
Completely flush the old brake juice from the system. Brake fluid is hygroscopic; it absorbs water which does a poor job when mixed with brake fluid. Water-infused brake fluid can also lead to corrosion and/or rust within the system.
Also, use a green ScotchBrite pad and a can of carb cleaner to do a scrubbing number on the discs. Both sides and the inside of every drilled hole should receive attention.
Completely drain the brake system and flush with new. Bleed all air from the lines. Speed Bleeders can make this process a one-man job. A hefty rubber band, used to tie back the brake lever, will aid in forcing the last tiny bubbles from the system when left in situ overnight.
New pads will need a couple hundred miles to conform to the existing wear patterns in the discs. After they bed in, braking performance should be much improved.
Stainless brakes hoses look terrific. However, they are not a cure all for a system needing basic maintenance.
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I'd say to contact cyclebrakes.com who do custom (galfer)lines at good prices, I've done several lines through them.
Also, I always use Galfer Green organic pads. Great stopping power and minimal wear on the discs.
You can also bypass the spliter and run two longer hoses up to the M/S and use a longer bolt.
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I really want some speed bleeders! Have spent a lovely afternoon in the sun fitting a set of braided lines to my LS. I had all the usual bleeding problems (mucho swearing) but sorted now :) even so am leaving over night with a cable tie round the leaver to flush out any last air bubbles.
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Everyone has their own preference for bleeding brakes, I've used a vacuum bleeder type for the last 20 years .
One member here had issues with speed bleeder screws, the threads have a Loctite type material on them and the bleeder screw bound up and came close to stripping all the threads in the caliper .
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While the wife (aka the boss, or 'she who is to be obeyed (SWISTBO) was doing the Morrisons shopping I was wandering about Halford's (I have a trade card so always have a nose about when we're in Kendal) and found a one way valve bleeder kit for under a £10, which having tested on SWISTBO's Suzuki works rather well.
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After all the years and miles I spent on my 1953 Triumph, I believe the R65 has bloody marvelous brakes.
Not all of us were raised to brake Flintstones style.
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After all the years and miles I spent on my 1953 Triumph, I believe the R65 has bloody marvelous brakes. :D
Not to mention R100s with ATE "swinging" calipers - The major reason BMW quickly went to twin ATE swingers was that a single brake did not perform as well as the drum it was replacing.
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After all the years and miles I spent on my 1953 Triumph, I believe the R65 has bloody marvelous brakes. :D
Not to mention R100s with ATE "swinging" calipers - The major reason BMW quickly went to twin ATE swingers was that a single brake did not perform as well as the drum it was replacing.
I'll certainly grant you that ill-adjusted ATE swingers can be frown-inducing.
When first acquired, the front brakes on my '78 R100S were in poor operating condition due to serious neglect. Spent many hours in the shop sorting this n' that, including a replacement caliper, both pistons, brake pads, juice, MC rework, hyd hose, the whole enchilada. Then dealing with aligning the calipers and pads to the disc. Back n' forth, one side to the other.
Most any issue can be righted, if enough time and money is thrown at it. I now enjoy those twin ATEs as they are scary strong. Forum member Mike Valenti gets a tip o' the hat for his assistance.
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The standard LS setup, is one rubber line from the master cylinder, to the brake line splitter, behind the head light bucket .
Both ends of the line , if it is stock, has banjo fittings on each end .
Not in this part of the world Barry.
The stuff below was taken from what started life as a 1981 LS, I have known this bike since it was new. In the early 90s the owner was drunk and left it parked in the St in Townsville and it was vandalised which resulted in it being repaired using standard r65 instruments, "dashboard" and seat, I know the braking system was untouched because I swapped the parts over.
There is only one brake line there now - I removed the other to use for something else in th ecourse of my own r65 rebuild.
The LS/R65 is now in its third incarnation, it now has a Cagiva elefant front end, a G/S swingarm and subframe, tank, Seat, lights and instruments. The frame was modified to monoshock by simply replicating the upper mount and welding it onto the R65 frame. in that configuration it has served its owner well, having done a number of very long tours around Australia. Along the way it picked up a late model R100 engine so there is little but the frame, gearbox and some of the harness to give away its origins as an LS.
BUT! The saga continues.
For a year now he has been amassing the "bits" to turn it into a pseudo RS using a R100RS fairing and mounts, K100 front end and a late monolever swingarm and subframe.
Anyone know of any BMW that has had more incarnations?
I have suggested several times that he should amalgamate all the photos of the various conversions and the photos of the places its been and write a book - his answer "maybe when I get old" (he's turning 71 in a few weeks time)
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Forgot the photos
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I'll certainly grant you that ill-adjusted ATE swingers can be frown-inducing.
Most any issue can be righted, if enough time and money is thrown at it. I now enjoy those twin ATEs as they are scary strong. Forum member Mike Valenti gets a tip o' the hat for his assistance.
I worked out my own method of adjusting them as when I first got the bike the internet did not exist and i wasn't going near the local dealer again as each time I walked through the door I felt the way a lamb feels on its way to the shearing shed.....
Initially i used talcum powder on the disc so that I could see the contact area, then I realized that i could use the poser of hydraulics to assist me. Remove bottom access cap to you can insert a allen key into the caliper eccentric axle, apply brakes. Wriggle axle around till you get to the point where you have a small "dead" zone prior to meeting stern resistance to further rotation. You now have pads pretty flat against the disc, any remaining lack of "squareness" will be rapidly taken up by wear in the bedding in process.
I used sintered pads for a while, then after i bought my first set of replacement discs I realized my error. Not shown in my recent photo of the bike (which really means that it is not a recent photo at all is the mehanite discs it now wears (have spent their first 100 years or so as a sewer manhole cover. Switching to mehanite discs means that sintered pads are back on the agenda.
BTW, you may notice that my R65 has a cast iron disc - also sintered pads courtesy of bevel heaven.
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I am very happy with Venhill. They're from the UK but have good US distribution and support. They also have a ebay store with good prices.
I installed a new line a few months ago for my low bars and they were able to get 10mm adapter to me in a few days for less then $5.
When I changed to a standard bar, I replaced the line with something longer for about $30.
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Thank you all for the good advise. Here is an update. I held off on the steel braided lines, after looking at the brake pads, and rotors. They were both in pretty bad condition, so I replaced brake pads, and rotors.
After 200 mile ride, she stops much better. Thanks
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Thank you all for the good advise. Here is an update. I held off on the steel braided lines, after looking at the brake pads, and rotors. They were both in pretty bad condition, so I replaced brake pads, and rotors.
After 200 mile ride, she stops much better. Thanks
Don't overlook cleaning the i.d. surfaces on all the holes on the disc rotors. All sorts of oily gunk can hide there and foul brake pads. Carb cleaner and a small bottle brush is a nice way to spend a few hours outside. Those new pads will wear to "fit" the grooves in the brake rotors after some miles and fairly aggressive braking.