The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Crossrodes on November 03, 2013, 01:02:34 PM
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I replaced the oil pressure switch on my 79 R65 about 3 years ago when I restored the bike. Now I have an oil leak and it appears to be coming from the oil pressure switch again. I seem to recall reading somewhere on here about an aftermarket switch that is not prone to leaking like the BMW switch is but I can't find that thread. Does anyone know what make of switch it is and where I might buy one?
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Monte has had sucess with an Italian made replacement switch sourced from Motobins.
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Monte was referring to the transmission neutral switch, not the low oil pressure switch .
I recall, seeing a reference for non-BMW parts for this part, I thought it was a VW oil pressure switch .
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wrap some PTFE plumbing tape on the threads.
It's kept mine dry for 2yrs now.
Hope it helps
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wrap some PTFE plumbing tape on the threads.
It's kept mine dry for 2yrs now.
Hope it helps
Problem is they can sometimes leak through the actual switch not via the threads.
Lou
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Does anyone know what make of switch it is and where I might buy one?
Go to a supplier of aircooled VW parts and buy a Brazilian/Mexican oil pressure switch. In fact they will be so cheap, buy two, then when it starts leaking, and they all do eventually, you can replace it then and there. A few minutes cleaning the thread, firstly with CRC/WD-40 etc, followed by a shot of aerostart (or equivalent) to ensure clean and dry threads, followed by some Loctite blue on the switch when you fit it will eliminate that early source of leaks.
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The switch (should) have an aluminum crush washer, it's not a tapered pipe thread .
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Use caution if attempting to use a VW/Audi OP switch as there have been notes about the www of different, non-BMW matching threads on the after-market parts.
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Monte makes a valid point. Having said that, I replaced the oil pressure switch on my R90/6 with one sourced from NAPA. Somewhere around here is a thread with the number, but no guarantees it will work for the R65 either. The correct pressure rating of the replacement switch is critical.
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Well thanks for the feedback guys. I'm guessing with all the potential issues I might as well just go with a BMW switch and be prepared to replace it every couple of years.
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Actually it's kind of a lottery. The first one I got in 84 lasted about 10 years, it's replacement leaked badly 10 000 km later and it's replacement still holds... And they where same make and model. So I would go the OEM route and cross my fingers.... After all it is easy to switch compared to the transmission switch...
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It's luck of the draw, my oil pressure switch failed at 2 years, the replacement switch has lasted 31 years, so go figure !!!!!
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Late coming to the thread but, two years ago when my NEUTRAL INDICATOR SWITCH was leaking, I took the advice of one of you gurus and slathered on 5-minute epoxy on the center portion of the switch. I also used a new aluminum crush washer. No leaks since then. It seems it is common for leaks to occur through the body of the switch and not the threads.
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The OEM neutral switch has thin, crimped aluminum folded over the plastic switch body. Poor design and/or manufacturing quality control all but stacks the odds against you. A few winners and many losers.
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The OEM neutral switch has thin, crimped aluminum folded over the plastic switch body.
Just received my new neutral switch (motobins repop) the other day. Looks like a solid design, one piece brass (?) outer with plastic insert of some kind where the male connectors come out.
Now I just need to find some time to install it.
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Replaced my low oil pressure switch 12 months ago with a pattern switch. It has just started to leak. SAeems to be around the thread/crush washer. I have gone the plumbers tape route and will see how it holds up.
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Sorry to bring this thread back to the top, but my oil pressure switch is also leaking! It seems like it is leaking through the switch, not around the threads. I'll need to order a new part.
So, dumb question. Do I need to drain the sump when replacing this part? Can I just lay the bike on it's side?
~B
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Lay the bike over on it's right side. Doesn't have to be completely horizontal. You won't lose any oil.
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I replaced mine recently too and left the bike standing straight up. It only dribbled the little bit that was in the oil passage that feeds the switch. I did spin the engine for oil pressure before letting it run under its own power again.
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Has anybody just binned the switch and replaced it with an oil pressure gage. I have this problem (again) and am are tired of throwing good money after bad. :(
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A mechanical gauge mounted up at the handlebars would have a greater potential to leak with all the plumbing to get the oil there. Mounted down on the engine it's not a very good warning device.
An electric oil pressure gauge would use a sending unit, which is pretty much the same thing as our our oil pressure switch except that it has a varistor in it instead of a binary switch.
It's not really a matter of the design, but the manufacturing quality. The thing to do would be to find a higher quality switch with the same threads (not a common size) and an equal or higher trip pressure. I've heard legends of such a switch, but never got the part number :-/
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I looked into this a few years ago, I don't have the paperwork on it right now, but if I remember correctly, a gauge and sending unit were around $50 US, this was 5 years ago .
The company is eGauges.com .
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I'm currently reading Ted Simons book 'Dreaming of Jupiter' where he rides around the world for the 2nd time on BMW. After 35,000 miles It's been incredibly reliable but guess what; the oil pressure switch leaked so bad he had to take it out and put a brass plug in to stop the leak.
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I looked into this a few years ago, I don't have the paperwork on it right now, but if I remember correctly, a gauge and sending unit were around $50 US, this was 5 years ago .
The company is eGauges.com .
This is my queue to say that I am messing about with getting "copies" made of a BMW accessory instrument pod made in blow-mold plastic. I have a pod which cannot be satisfactorily repaired and I intend to use it as a model. The problem is that whilst I have access to a blow-molding plant, thermoset plastic has significantly less structural strength than the industrial resin the original article was made from which requires extensive redesign of the mold. The secondary problem may be that by the time I can get enough structural strength in thermoset, the finished article might look just a little "silly", or have no worthwhile service life. I was really hoping to use thermoset as a friend owns a thermoset blow mold plant (he makes bottles and jars) and would let me use his left over plastic prior to weekend shutdown to make as many pods as I can - especially if I do not care if they are clear, green, white or orange.
As a long term project I may cast up some in industrial resin but the minimum quantity of the stuff I can buy will make about 100 pods and if I put any allowance for time casting them one by one, the price will be not cheap whereas if i can get the thermoset idea working, they will be giveaways.
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You should just have one machined out of aluminum. Paint it black if you wish.
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You should just have one machined out of aluminum. Paint it black if you wish.
Of course I could do that, and given that I will shortly own a universal milling machine, I could do it myself. But it is not repeatable, whereas if I am successful with a blow-mold, I can knock out a few and given them to people who want one. I've always regarded a voltmeter as a useful addition to any motorcycle.