The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: mtpica on August 31, 2007, 12:32:50 AM
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I replaced the fork seals on my 1984 R65 and I've got a problem putting things back together.
When I try to tighten the large allen bolt that fits into the very bottom of the slider, it snugs up slightly and then the damper rod starts to turn.
How do I stop the damper rod from turning so that I can get the allen bolt torqued correctly?
thanks!
mark
1984 R65
1982 R100RT
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Not had this problem myself but the tension of the spring should hold the rod in place so long as the small damper piston is in good nick. Sorry to say that it looks like you'll have to strip the fork down and check that out as there are three little rings that sit on the piston and a rubber bush in the assembly and one of them may have gone/collapsed.
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The top of the damper should have , I believe a 13 mm hex at the top, you need to get a socket down there to hold the damper while you torque the allen head screw/bolt at the bottom of the fork.
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Yes, sometimes one gets lucky and doesn't need to do it, but there are times when you need to get a LOOONG
extension for your socket set, and, some of the more paranoid among us also duct tape the socket onto the extension
so it really won't fall off and get lost down in there. Use a flashlight to locate your target down in the fork tube, and lower
away with the extended socket wrench. This really works best if you have a buddy help you...
;)
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<<The top of the damper should have , I believe a 13 mm hex at the top, you need to get a socket down there to hold the damper while you torque the allen head screw/bolt at the bottom of the fork.>>
I gather this means that I need to remove the circlip, top plug, and other bits to accomplish this?
thanks!
mark
1984 R65
1982 R100RT
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Unfortunately, you need to get the spring out before you gain access to the top of the damper tube.
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This is driving me nuts! I removed the circlip and though it popped up past the ring that that circlip sat in, something still seems to be holding the top plug in place.
Am I still missing something, or do I just need to be more forceful in my pursuation?
thanks!
Mark
1984 R65
1982 R100RT
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Make sure there isn't a burr of metal hanging over the inner lip of the fork tube stopping the plug coming out.
A PO on Bimbo2 at some point used a hammer (and a large socket at a guess) to drift the RHS fork leg into the yoke and I had a right old argument with the plug before it came out.
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Are you certain that you got all of the circlip out ? MAybe a piece of it broke off and is still stuck in there, or perhaps there was
a bit of rust or crud that jammed between the side of the plug and the inside of the tube ? It should come out pretty easily - go gently
so as not to chisel up the inside of the fork tube, but try pushing down on the plug (you should feel the inside spring compress)
past the circlip area and inspect that area again. Sometime just doing compressing the spring a few times works out what bit of stuff might
be plugging the works and the plug comes shooting out the top when the spring is released (try not to let it shoot out the top !)
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Most likely, the plug at the top has cocked slightly, take a suitable tool, and push down on the plug, and it should come out after a few tries.
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Thanks folks!
The top of the tube I started working on has two flattened areas across from each other that are so symetrical I thought they were supposed to be there. Each of these areas has "mushroomed" the edge of the tube enough that the plug was prevented from sliding past them.
Who knows what a previous owner must have been trying to do........
mark
1984 R65
1982 R100RT
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Were you able to tighten up the bolt that was giving you trouble ?
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Bob,
I did finally get the bolts at the bottom of the forks tightened. The ratchet extensions and 13mm socket duct taped together did the trick!
mark
1984 R65
1982 R100RT
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I am preparing for a fork rebuild this winter. May I please ask for a parts list & permission to bring this topic up again?
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There is a photo of the dismatled fork internals and a few comments about when I uprated the springs in my 65RT on my webpage .
Tony
http://www.thrang.freeserve.co.uk/uprating.htm
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I am preparing for a fork rebuild this winter. May I please ask for a parts list & permission to bring this topic up again?
Troy, unless you are changing the springs, the only parts you need are an o-ring for the top plug, and a crush washer under the bolt head at the bottom of the fork, another crush washer for the fill plug, and the oil seal for the fork tube. And yes you do have permission to bring this up again in the dead of winter in the Wasatch Mountain region.