The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: tc80211 on June 25, 2014, 12:22:44 AM
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Well the build is finally done... 1983 R65
It fired up on first push of the starter button... however when I went to disengage the clutch, nothing. So i tightened the cable and again nothing.
Pulling the clutch lever with all the slack out of the line still nothing...
So what do I do now? Pull the tranny and pull the clutch and most likely replace?
Any input would be great.
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I suspect that the adjustment required will be associated with the clutch actuation lever at the back of the transmission. It will take a bit of fettling but I need to do a similar job on my R100gs who's clutch only engages at the last moment before the hand lever is released. Tightening the cable only makes it worse.
I have not completed this job yet as letting all the slack out of the cable made the bike a little more rideable, so it is on my to do list but I suspect that you will need to take all the admen tout of the cable and then at the rear of the transmission you will need to adjust the screw and lock nut so that the clutch is just fully engaged and then adjust the cable until the hand lever disengages it at a point that is comfortable.
I am sure someone more experienced will be along in a minute for the full storey!
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So what do I do now? Pull the tranny and pull the clutch and most .
Not just yet you don't.
Firstly check your cable for correct tension , actuating arm etc. If it all feels like it *should* be working you may in fact have no bigger problem than a clutch plate that has managed to weld itself a little bit to the flywheel.
Start her up and get the engine nice and warm, then roll the bike out to the road. Now I use the gutter to do this by myself, but you may want an accomplice present.
Start up again and either roll down the gutter or have your assistant push you, as soon as you are moving, drop the gearbox into 1st gear. Ride off with the clutch pulled in and vary the revs up and down a little bit abruptly.
If I am correct in my assumption of what has happened it should all free up nicely in about 100 metres or so. I will admit to once riding an airhead nearly 20km with the clutch lever pulled in before the clutch let go, but then that bike had been sitting since 1968.
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so it is on my to do list
I would rush to get it off my list as it is a 3 minutes job!
You loosen the nut around the bolt, drive bolt in our out according what you need, tighten the bolt and try again. Adjust if necessary.
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Haines manual has a pretty concise explanation. But I have not got it in front of me.
The clutch actuating arm has to be more or less parallel with the rear of the transmission case. Adjusting nut on the back of the actuating arm is coarse adjust and handlebar is fine adjust. Look to have 2m of slack at the handle bar lever.
Cheers
Rev Light
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Thanks guys... gonna try the warm up and ride in 1st method Tony described... this bike was sitting for 3 years before i got my hands on it and took it apart... Will update later today!
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I think even the R65 Rider's Manual (which we have a PDF copy of in the tech/faq section) covers how to adjust the clutch cable. As other have said, it should be parallel to the rear flat surface of the gearbox witht eh handlebar lever at rest. There is a measurement (201mm? IIRC - hae to check the manual) that should be the length of cable from the engine casing boss that retains the clutch cable to the pivot on the end of the arm.
Are you sure that you got all the throwout bearing & piston assembly parts installed correctly under that little rubber belows at the back of the transmission?
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Case to cable pivot measurement is easy if you first clip a piece of coathanger wire to the spec'd length.
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I think even the R65 Rider's Manual (which we have a PDF copy of in the tech/faq section) covers how to adjust the clutch cable. As other have said, it should be parallel to the rear flat surface of the gearbox witht eh handlebar lever at rest. There is a measurement (201mm? IIRC - hae to check the manual) that should be the length of cable from the engine casing boss that retains the clutch cable to the pivot on the end of the arm.
Are you sure that you got all the throwout bearing & piston assembly parts installed correctly under that little rubber belows at the back of the transmission?
It actuates that is for certain... Just does not disengage the clutch... I have resistance etc...
Checked and the lever in back on tranny is parallel with tranny rear.
Also notices it sounds like my drive shaft is rubbing inside of swing arm now? It was fine. ugh. Need to re-adjust
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It worked!!!! Kept my revs around 4000 and held clutch lever and shifted into 1st... boom clutch is back!!!
And shifts smooth... The clunking i heard and felt in drive shaft is also gone.... so will need to inspect more closely later but so pumped!! Sounds great too... will post vid soon as these aftermarket mufflers are sweet
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Not suggesting it's this critical but just for the record...
What the measured 201mm does is ensure the clutch actuating lever is parallel to the gearbox when the handlebar lever is at half travel. That way you get the best mechanical advantage over the full range of lever travel.
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It worked!!!! Kept my revs around 4000 and held clutch lever and shifted into 1st... boom clutch is back!!!
SHUDDER!
You got away with that, congrats. There was a reason I suggested that you actually get the bike mobile and simply ride with the clutch pulled in.
What would have happened if the clutch had not freed? To my way of thinking quite apart from the potential catastrophic damage to various parts of the drive train, the bike could have simply launched which would have been a bit interesting.
A warmed up R65 engine will happily pull 1st gear at around walkign pace, hence all you needed to do was have the bike moving, either down a slope or an assistant pushing and drop it into gear - no strain to the drive train.
At the end of the day, your bike and all that, but I reckon what you did was plain scary.
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SHUDDER!
You got away with that, congrats. There was a reason I suggested that you actually get the bike mobile and simply ride with the clutch pulled in.
What would have happened if the clutch had not freed? To my way of thinking quite apart from the potential catastrophic damage to various parts of the drive train, the bike could have simply launched which would have been a bit interesting.
A warmed up R65 engine will happily pull 1st gear at around walkign pace, hence all you needed to do was have the bike moving, either down a slope or an assistant pushing and drop it into gear - no strain to the drive train.
At the end of the day, your bike and all that, but I reckon what you did was plain scary.
If it didnt work I would have stalled and then I would have needed to take the whole thing apart anyways... Been riding on it and oh man it feels good... 3rd gear has such good pull.