The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: mkocal on July 03, 2007, 09:31:22 AM
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Can anyone help me with aluminum cleaning? A strong cleaner (mainly for the cast parts,e.g. cylinder & head) that will take some of the labour out of the project.
I have read that Edelbrock (the engine parts company) recommends a product called OxiSov. I cannot find this product here in Canada.
Thanks
mk
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Watch out for some of the stronger alloy cleaners, they're really meant for disassembled parts where they can be more completely rinsed afterward. Using them on an assembled engine means some solution can find its way into hard to reach places and corrode the alloy there, with disastrous results.
There is no real substitute for elbow grease, and maybe some Simple Green or even just kerosene. Don't use steel wool or wire brushes. You can use stainless wool and brushes, or brass brushes (make sure they are brass as some have brass coated steel).
Everyone has their own favourite method, so get the pen and paper ready!!
Bill....................;-)
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I generally work with WD-40 spray on one of those green scrubbies that don't scratch. A certain patina is quite nice too!?? The dental section of your drugstore has a brush called a sucrabrush with small angled replaceable brushes at either end..it's great for those nasty crevices on the carbs. I often have to wrap a scrubby around a small paintbrush handle end to get at the really tight corners and a long wooden paint stir stick fits nicely between the cylinder head fins with a green scrubby wrapped around it for all those deep fins. Good old varsol is good too but I find WD-40 can go anywhere except into locks and not cause problems over time. I have been asked many times how i keep my bikes so clean and I just tell them I clean them and it takes lots of time...you've got to enjoy it or just not worry about it. Always choices.
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Ed and I will tell you our choice, if you want to hear it! ;)
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...or even if you don't. It's too much work.
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I use a green plastic scouring pad and some degreasant - anything from the new bio-degradable stuff to parafin. I then spray the engine with GT85 - which is a teflon spray and keeps the muck off a bit....its scented as well...which is nice.....in tough with my femine side!
Err...um...have to go and mess about with my tool box...and disturb some spiders or something....
Steve H
P.S. - Hate the over polished look - a lot of effort for a peculiar looking motor...my oppinion only.
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I'll have to agree with not using harsh cleaners, on an assembled engine. Most aluminum cleaners are either highly alkaline or acidic, and this can be absorbed by paper gaskets, and get into tiny joints, and unless properly cleaned or neutralized, it will cause you more problems than you want to deal with. About the only method is a very mild abrasive, and a lot of ' elbow grease'. Unless you keep up with the cleaned area, it will tarnish back to a grey color, it's what alloyed aluminum does best.
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I've been accused of having a "too clean bike" here but at the risk of making myself a target again...
for the cylinder and head fins a bit of Scotch Brite pad [the green pads sue mentioned] wrapped around or glued to a Popsicle stick / tounge depressor werks great. finish off with some Never Dull. Varsol or WD-40 helps the process with the pad as sue also said. For the cases, try some crumpled aluminum foil sprayed with WD-40. lots of elbow grease, radio on, and a cool beverage at hand.
rich
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Orthophosphoric acid. If you can find a cleaner containing this stuff it will work effectively and quickly on seriously furred and corroded engine cases and forks etc of your BM, restoring the finish to as new, without needing hours of elbow grease. A bronze spark plug cleaning brush helps for agitation too. This stuff is pretty strong though so take precautions for your own safety and it will, unfotunately spoil the finish on nuts and bolts and any bare steel components so be careful with those too. The newly cleaned aluminium will VERY quickly begin to oxidise again so a good rub with WD40 or similar oil after rinsing is important to keep the new finish. I've been using it for years, but I don't see orthophosphoric acid on sale so much these days. In England you can buy it as 'MER' from Halfords.
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The most common consumer product available here in the US, is called Naval Jelly, they have a specific product for aluminum. The active ingredient is orthophosphoric acid, also referred to as simply phosphoric acid.
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The most common consumer product available here in the US, is called Naval Jelly, they have a specific product for aluminum. The active ingredient is orthophosphoric acid, also referred to as simply phosphoric acid.
Gloves.
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I've used it, and I don't think I would use it on my bike, as there is no way to neutralize it once it gets into gaskets and small crevices, aluminum and acid is a recipe for corrosion. I've been working with alloyed aluminum since 1976, and it likes to turn a dull grey color, and I have come to terms with it, and do nothing to my bike to alter this appearance. Not worth the effort, and living here in a desert environment, it hasn't gotten any worse in the last 14 years.
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The trick to using acid based cleaners is to apply the cleaner to an old rag and polish small areas at a time re-cleaning each area to neutalize the acid.
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I use Simple Green followed by WD-40. Being careful with any locks as WD-40 will attract grime & gum em up. If I have to flush locks to get em working freely I use electrical contact cleaner from the commercial supply house followed with graphite.
As for applicators. I prefer the crumple foil that Rich mentioned. And ScotchBrite/Generic Scubbies. By the way the Scotch brand comes in various grits as I learned from my restoration work.
Also sponges never used dry. The many dental tools & Dremel / Rotary tool accessories.
Tip for Dremel / Rotory tool work:
Tack a chuck on the end of an old speedo cable & chuck the tranny end in a drill that has a trigger lock. Works great!
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Oh! I did't mention. My philosophy regarding bike cleaning. I keep it clean enough to know when I have a new leak. Or to prevent some other problem. If I have the time to clean I use the time to RIDE.
Everything to its season
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S&S 100 cleaner with a brush or scotch brite pads. Use it full strength then scrub away. Follow that up with Armor All. Use the Armor All every time you wash your bike. Eventually it work into the pores in your engine and displace the dirt and corrosion. Leaving your engine looking like new. This works particularly well on BMWs......Dew.
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I believe Armour All has some unexpected side affects. Or so some say. I know the alcohol in it draws the oil out of plastics & is not good for your cars trim or leather. It did a number on a car of mine in the 80's. The stuff will make it pretty for a while then it looks worse than before. I don't know if it still has Benzene in it. But it did.
http://madisonrecord.com/news/contentview.asp?c=166976
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I was told that once you have the aluminum clean.......to spray it with LPS #1 which is a greaseless lubricant. This coats the engine....gives it a sort of protective shield which helps keep it clean and makes future cleaning easier. This came from the guy that was the BMW dealer in Fort worth, Texas for 30 years and now restores old cycle. Seems to work good for me.
I have heard Armour all isn't so hot in the long run. So...........what are your using instead???? I am one of those who like to keep my cars and cycles clean, shinny and polished.
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Scotty
I use Simple Green & follow it with WD40 on metal & glycerin on non metal. I use glycerin sparingly & WD excessively.
If I have heavy cleaning to do. I will use phosphoric or hydrochloric acid.
BTW WD40 was also defendant in that lawsuit I referred to earlier. Never did find out how it all ended. Only know, Amour All is not something I will ever use again. Or any of that genre of products.
On paint I use Meguiars products.
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scotch brite and engine cleaner, followed by scotch brite and WD40 is my ally cleaning mix.
I've got to have a go at using a rev counter cable and a chuck to make a flexi attachment for a cleaning brush, thats a cracking idea!