The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: DerekM on April 04, 2014, 12:35:42 PM
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The rubber on my front brake lines were cracked, and need to be replaced. After a valve adjustment last night I managed to get the block and lines removed, and would like to run a single line from the lever to the caliper. i'm a bit at a loss of where to source steel lines, that aren't uber expensive? additionally,is there another alternative to running the block that would allow for a brake light switch?
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Additionally, how do you tell the difference between low bars and high bars? i have the ATE calipers if that makes a difference.
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This is not an R65 but these are the Euro low bars. The USA market high bars will have a 2-3 inch rise. Euro bars place the rider in a sporty position while the high bars provide an upright seating position that's terribly uncomfortable bucking the wind blast at a 60+ mph cruise speed.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520Steering%2FBMWeurobars_zps6e8107a0.jpg&hash=909548f3a0965de5447cbe91f4c926321ab5c029) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/montmil/media/BMW%20Steering/BMWeurobars_zps6e8107a0.jpg.html)
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Some of the better automotive supply stores can offer custom made brake lines for you . Also, Bob's BMW had a supplier that would build a set - you just had to tell them what you had for hardware to hookup and what you had for handlebars. I got the custom set for my LS from Bob's BMW. I recently bought a new braided SS brake line from MAX BMW for my /7 (has under tank master cylinder) and Max has some sets of pre-made brake lines from Spiegler.
Or you can buy a new OEM brake line/set - though they will come in lengths assuming that you have the splitter installed. If you want to get ride of the splitter entirely, then you'll be going the custom route.
Actually, for an ever day sort of bike, I like keeping the splitter in place because then if I need to change the handlebars to a different height/length I just need to replace that short upper cable and I'm done. But, every has different tastes/needs.
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You can make the steel lines yourself. You need some 3/16" brake line, two tube nuts, a small pipe cutter, and an ISO bubble flare tool. The bubble flare is a single-step flare and not the same as the double flare you might find on American cars and trucks. A tubing bender might be handy, but I was able to bend the short line by hand without kinking it.
I bought a bubble flare tool at NAPA years ago for less than $40. More recently, I brought them the lower rubber brake hoses (from junction box to steel line) and had them find a close replacement. Hoses were $20 a piece there and I was on a budget.
You might be able to borrow a bubble flare tool from your local auto parts store instead of buying one.
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Here's the tool I bought. $25... Shoulda got it on Amazon!
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4504-Stinger-Bubble-Flaring/dp/B0015PMZMU
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Use a banjo bolt fitting on the master cylinder, and a brake light switch like this:
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1195/25925/Tusk-Hydraulic-Brake-Switch-Nissin-Brakes
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Use a banjo bolt fitting on the master cylinder, and a brake light switch like this:
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1195/25925/Tusk-Hydraulic-Brake-Switch-Nissin-Brakes
That looks like the ticket. Thanks!
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I'm not certain that's the exact version you need, it'll need to match the threads of the master cylinder, obviously.
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Indeed, but the banjo bolt/switch setup looks like the way to go.