The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: crguy on February 23, 2014, 04:33:39 PM
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Hello, converting to twin front disc and wondering where the stock 3 way hose splitter mounts. thank you.
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It bolts to the headlight/instrument bracket, right in front of the steering head.
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Thanks Al...
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Since I wasn't using the stock headlight mount on mine R65LS, this is what I came up with.
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Marc thanks!
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Can I add further that using the otherwise redundant 4th "port" on the splitter you can install a VW Kombi (1968-1974) brake light pressure switch, which is orders of magnitude more reliable than the stock handlebar switch.
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And one less wire on the handle bar.... Did you remove the brake lever switch and plug the hole somehow, or just leave it disconnected?
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Mine('79) had the switch on the splitter stock, or at least that's how it was when I received it:
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FIMG_0093_zpsd0a1f00a.jpg&hash=6366e05a7617cc390c0ea0ce67a435488f406f87) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/IMG_0093_zpsd0a1f00a.jpg.html)
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Mine('79) had the switch on the splitter stock, or at least that's how it was when I received it:
Thanks for this - I have this unit too and now I know exactly where it belongs - that VW switch is very useful to know too ;)
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Mine('79) had the switch on the splitter stock, or at least that's how it was when I received it:
Ah! I didn't know what was stock, let's face it we are dealing with 35 year old motorbikes. My wife's came stock with a single disc and a friend visiting Germany bought the complete twin disc conversion. Whilst fitting it I noticed that the handlebar switch was dodgy and investigation revealed that a VW brake light switch screwed in perfectly in place of the blanking bolt.
To answer someone else's question I removed the wiring from the handlebars and decided that the hole where the switch had been was virtually invisible. I looked this morning and a wasp has long ago made a nest in the hole and sealed it with mud.
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To answer someone else's question I removed the wiring from the handlebars and decided that the hole where the switch had been was virtually invisible. I looked this morning and a wasp has long ago made a nest in the hole and sealed it with mud.
That sounds just like my place! I was replacing a screw-in bulb light fixture in my shop with a big, bright fluorescent one, and the old porcelain fixture was completely full of mud and wasp nests. All uninhabited, thankfully.
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Mine('79) had the switch on the splitter stock, or at least that's how it was when I received it:
That was the set-up on the '79-'80 (and '78 in Europe) R65s.
I had to replace my switch when I ignored the brake fluid maintenance long enough for the switch to gum up, as well. :-[
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pbase.com%2Ftomfarr%2Fimage%2F64538398%2Fmedium.jpg&hash=629cf9ce5dff92c3d460cb2c7952caece882860d)
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If course you could ditch the lot and use banjo bolts fittings and two brake lines. One leading from the master cylinder down to the right hand caliper, and then another leading from the right hand caliper to the left. Hydraulic operation of the brakes will be fine, and it will be a lot tidier. Have to make other arrangement for brake light operation - i.e. dab the back brake - which you should be doing anyway. Parts List:
2 normal banjo bolts and copper washers.
1 double banjo bolt with copper washers to be used on right hand caliper.
2 brake lines, one longer that the other.
Banjo fittings, the ones on the calipers should have a bind in them to aid routing. The one on the master cylinder end should straight.
Here is a picture.
Rev Light
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If course you could ditch the lot and use banjo bolts fittings and two brake lines.
That's a nice clean look. I thought about doing that, kinda wish I had. There are banjo bolts available with a built-in switch also.
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Steve gave me an idea, how about removing left caliber bleed and run line from left port to the right caliber and leaving the stock line from MC to left caliber.
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In theory that would work, but the bleeders screws have a smaller thread diameter than the line fittings. Sourcing a hose might be difficult, and the internal diameter of the line, if available, would probably be very small and more prone to blockage.
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Ah..good point.
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I've seen some methods of doing this, using lines with ' banjo ' fittings and hollow bolts at the caliper, so you leave the bleeder port alone .