The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: ross_g on July 17, 2013, 03:37:32 PM
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Hi Guys,
Just wondered if you wonderful people might be able to help me along the way a little with some info. So I bought a "project" R65 off someone and they've been chopping away at the wiring loom so its a little messed up now. As I want to trim this bike down a little the electrics / cabling are a target, however I want to understand them before diving in.
So in the first picture, can anyone tell me what the three wires going into the engine housing are for / do.
In the second picture the two wires shown going into the carb, I know the one on the left is the choke, the one on the right is a mystery, it seems to stem from the pod on the right handle bar.
In picture three, does this look stock to you or have I inherited some kind of frankenstein electrics? Also can anyone identify the crusty looking object in the bottom right of the picture with the two cables running into it? Starter motor?
Thanks again guys, sorry for being a complete novice.
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First picture, the three wires are one set to the ignition canister ccommonly refered to as the 'bean can', one is the output from the alternator to the positive post of the battery, the last one is for the voltage regulator for the alternator .
The second picture, the other cable is for the throttle on the carb .
Third picture, that is the dual output ignition coil .
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Thanks Bob,
Am I right in thinking that the "bean can" wires should not really be replaced / removed from the engine and I should be able to work with them / wire them into the custom loom from their non-engine bound ends?
Thanks for the pin pointing, I took the lid of that silver looking container and found a circuit board inside, more fact finding! My goal is to be able to simplify the wiring and colour code it all if at all possible.
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The part with the red tape on it, that you removed the top to, is the voltage regulator for the alternator .
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The thin, black element just forward of the VR is the Ignition Control Unit (ICU). Identified by a large connector at the bottom with multiple wires.
The ICU is mounted to an aluminum heat sink and should have a layer of heat sink paste between the two bits. Stop by Radio Shack (or whatever electronic supply is nearby) and purchase a small tube of heat sink paste. Remove the ICU from the heat sink body, clean off the hardened paste and replenish with fresh. Use enough to get a nice squeeze out. Poor, hardened or non-existent heat sink paste will lead to random and irritating ignition failures. As will that...
... "crusty looking object," the infamous Bosch "Crack-O-Matic" ignition coil. Plan on replacing it with a Dyna "Brown" ignition coil... soon. Really.
The best early on investment you can make is a shop manual; Clymer, Haynes or both.
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Another helpful tip...
Always remove the battery's ground (earth) cable before removing the engine front cover. There is a live electrical terminal inside the front cover and if the cover should accidentally contact this hot spot, you'll likely fry some expensive electrical bits throughout the bike.
Forewarned is Forearmed.
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Has nothing to do with wiring... but....
I noticed in your pictures that you have pod filters. However, I also noticed that the stud in picture #2 has no nut on it. That stud holds the (I presume now removed) airbox in place... but it is also a transmission mounting point! There is also a bolt on the left side with the same function. There are only two other bolts to hold the transmission on the bike (in the lower corners). You can replace the upper right hand stud with a bolt if you want.
Also, your transmission has a threaded hole in the top center. Another bolt from the airbox goes in that. There is no bolt there on your bike... and that will let water into the transmission and oil out. Drain and refill the tranny and plug the hole it if you dont have an airbox.
DON'T remove that philips head screw on the top of the transmission.
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Thanks for all the advice guys, I have a haynes manual for the bike but in truth im struggling to get the answers I want from it.
Have any of you re-wired a R65, its starting to look like I can keep the fundamentals in place and run fresh wire to / from them all.
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Ross,
I 'rewired' my red R65.
What I did was simplify the loom when I removed the indicators and accessory wiring. This removed half the loom!
I reused my existing wire, to keep to the colour coding of the loom.
However, it is not necessarily advantageous being without indicators.
Mine is still running the points ignition as it was originally a 79 model.
However I am using a BMW K100 coil for sparks instead of the two coils originally fitted to the 79 model.
Let me know if you want me to drop by.........Have a cold one in the fridge though.
Rev Light
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Cheers Rev,
Your help would be greatly appreciated, I will probably be doing some work on it on Sunday if you're free at all.
I'll put a crate in the fridge if you are able to help me make sense of it :)
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Good to see ya, lunch time today. Plenty of work to do by the looks of it.
As far as the seat base is concerned, it occured to me that we could make 2, one lash-up, quick and dirty, to get you going and the other for best which could be fettled slow time to get it right before getting trimmers involved. We could get the mounts and bearers sorted with the rough job, and at east get you on the road for a while, whilst the weather is good.
As with all things like this - make a list of jobs, tackle them one at a time and then start ticking them off. Rolling Restoration......
Rev. light
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Rev, what happened mate? Missed you this evening.
I've spent some time cleaning up some of the wires, re-routing them and getting rid of the choke cables - you did say you had some bike spokes lying around right? It's actually looking a bit tidier now.
Good idea about the seat, I've given it some thought and the missus raised a good point, if I ever have a backpack on and the missus on the back things might get snug if I chop the seat down, so I reckon im just going to leave it long and maybe just kick up the back a bit.
List of jobs:
- Bike spokes on carbs for choke.
- Seat
- Reattach rear mud guard and rewire in tail light.
- Mount ignition key on frame near tank.
- Do something about that strange single light.
- Get rid of the chock block wiring in the headlight.
- Ride it!
What'ya reckon?
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Oops forgot two jobs,
- Remove old speedo cable
- Create battery cradle
There are probably more.
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It doesn't look like this had been mentioned in this thread, but the red 'GEN' light is an important part of the charging system .
If you cut the wires, the alternator will not charge, so you either keep some sort of incancescent light bulb in the circuit, or place a 330 ohm resistor in it's place .
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Ross,
I turned up at just before 6pm. I had two spokes on me at the time.
Could not get an answer from the front or the back so went home and spent some time drinking.....
Sorry to have missed you.
Put the back pack on the missus......I still can take a pillion on mine.
Steve
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Bollocks, we got back at like 6:15. Do you have a mobile number? might be easier in future.
Couple questions for the forum, surprise surprise!
My ignition switch seems to be royal stuck in the horrible makeshift instrument panel I have on the bike, was thinking of just getting a new one. Anyone know if this would do the trick or if there is something specific I need to be looking for.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/BargainBitz-Universal-Ignition-Position-Motorbike/dp/B007OUXQJQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1374515660&sr=8-2&keywords=motorbike+ignition+switch
Also I want to rewire in some of my instrument lights, Rev or anyone else, where did you get your little bulbs / holders from?
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I don't have much to add here except the golden rule: if you have a passenger, by rule, they must wear the back pack.
After all, they're sitting in the cargo area!
If you have more cargo than that, consider saddle bags or a second bike.
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My tank bag has backpack straps that you can deploy when you remove it from the bike. It's not the biggest, but comparable to a small backpack... and it keeps the weight off the backs of your bike and passenger.
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My reason primarily for getting rid of my GSXR and grabbing an R65 was one of comfort, while I appreciate all your comments 2 years back the missus and I did a 2 week tour on the GSXR and needed panniers, huge tank bag and a backpack each. The idea of having less flexibility and / or potential luggage space than that of a sports bike doesn't sit well with me.
My desire for a great looking custom can stretch to having a slightly longer seat :)
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You are going to have to learn to travel lighter!
You might find BMW hard luggage too restrictive, and you need to watch what type of throw over panniers you have.
Throw over saddle bags and a tank bag is all I would be taking. The tent you can stow on the bike elsewhere, external to the bags, but it going to have to be small and light. But your bed rolls, sleeping bags, emergency rations, and cooking equipement, etc, are going to be in the panniers - divided equally between the two. It don't leave much room for clothes. You are going to need to wash them. And they are all gonna need to be in water proof bags.
Your maps, docs and valuables are going to be in the tank bag.
I am not actually happy riding with a rucksack on for any distance at all. But might go with a small light 'day sack' for when I am camped at a base came and am riding out from that location.
Leave the kitchen sink at home, keep changes of clothes, i.e. non riding gear, to a minimum, stuff that folds up small and does not need ironing. Restrict the Missus to one pair of shoes other than her riding boots - and not heels.
Boots - you are going to have to be able to walk in them as well as ride. Many riding boots these days are not really comfortable enough to walk in. Same with your other gear. Everything has to be multi-functional and not too focused. I am a fan of Army High legs, rather riding boots.
The trick is to have the sort of riding gear that can be adapted to the conditions, usually meaning a textile suite that has cooling vents and is still waterproof. Black leathers are probably not the answer.
Either that or do hotels - that way you do not have to take camping gear. Or at least have to flexibiltiy to revert to hotels, etc, for when the weather turns on us.
But you alrready know this don't you?
Rev. Light
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<snip>My ignition switch seems to be royal stuck in the horrible makeshift instrument panel I have on the bike, was thinking of just getting a new one. Anyone know if this would do the trick or if there is something specific I need to be looking for.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/BargainBitz-Universal-Ignition-Position-Motorbike/dp/B007OUXQJQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1374515660&sr=8-2&keywords=motorbike+ignition+switch
Also I want to rewire in some of my instrument lights, Rev or anyone else, where did you get your little bulbs / holders from?
With any after market ignition switch, you'd first need to confirm the terminal connections are correct for the R65's wiring. If the item is cheap but doesn't work, it's certainly not a bargain.
I forget the bulb's number but I bought a package at FLAPS. Check your manual for the specs. Those plastic bulb holders are BMW specific and will cost much more than that eBay ignition switch. I have a few spare holders that I keep in a bank safety deposit box. ;)
Two weeks two-up on an R65 with all that life support gear? Oh My Word! I don't think the R65 will happily tow a trailer but a side car would be way cool.
If you still have the OEM Boge shock boingers on back, that's the first bit of touring kit that really needs to be replaced.
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The dash light I have are wired in in exactly the same way as the originals in the instruments. The lights themselves were basic auto lights from an auto factor, in fact at one point you could get them from Halfrauds - only its full of camping gear and rubbish now....
It works - probably more through luck than judgement.....
A picture from the old Cafe Racer days