The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: jpbpe on February 27, 2013, 06:18:17 PM
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Just got my new 79 R65 with OEM(?) bars, about 5" tall. I want something lower/flatter. Would BMW S bars be appropriate? Thanks
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Check out this site...http://www.sideroadcycles.com/ImportedMotorcycles/ImportHandlebars/ImportHandlebarsBMW.html
They are the 22mm handlebar size we need without having to file down the 3/4 inch American handlebars. Another bonus is they are about $70 cheaper than the R65 OEM low bars.
If you can find a used pair of OEM on ebay, etc. good luck. There are several high bars out there, but no low ones that I could find.
I just ordered the A20 Low Euro Bar. Should get here tomorrow so we'll see if I need to alter the brake line, clutch cable, etc. to get them to install. I am planning on redoing my ATE caliper, so went ahead and bought the bars thinking I'd only have to bleed the system once after the entire install, which I heard can be a pain.
Good luck.
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i run my R65 with a pair of renthals from an enduro bike.
For me it gives a nice position i can sit in all day.
hope it helps
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I just ordered the A20 Low Euro Bar. Should get here tomorrow so we'll see if I need to alter the brake line, clutch cable, etc. to get them to install.
disco51 - Was curious how the handlebar install went. Did you need to alter any of your cabling / brake lines with the A20?
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Just noticed motobins has bars for the RS. That look significantly lower with about half the cost of flanders bars. Has anyone had any luck with those on an R65?
Below is the part #
Part No.61016
BMW Part No.
32 71 2 303 041
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The install went pretty well. I bought new brake lines and rebuilt the ATE caliper as well. You definitely need a shorter upper brake line to the splitter. I have bee able to use the throttle cables so far. I have noticed with extreme rotation of the handlebars (either right or left), I do get an increase in my idle rpms up to about 3000. I didn't notice this when I rode about 30 miles yesterday. Not sure if shorter cables will help. I probably need to pull the tank and check the throttle cables pathway. I lubed the cables at the carb as well to see if this will help. The new handlebars look great and I love the more forward position. I'm happy so far.
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Assuming you've got enough free play in the cables it might be the routing. Even on a stock setup the cables need to be free to move under the tank. I have the low bars and as I turn them side to side the cables move back and forwards under the tank.
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As Barry states. [smiley=thumbup.gif]
Resist the urge to do a little under-tank tidy-up by firmly zip-tying the throttle cables to the frame. Doing so can aggravate the rev up phenomenon with full lock bar movements.
If the cables must be held in a specific position for a reason, use an open-loop zip tie that will freely permit the needed fore n' aft movements.
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I have had my 82 R65 since new. I installed a Don Vesco fairing soon after. It came with low bars with about a 2" inch rise. I did not change any cables or brake lines. After I bought my 75 R90/6 and installed the RS fairing I changed to RS bars on the R65. After all these years had final change all the cables.
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I pulled the tank yesterday and both cables are "loosely" zip tied (different ties) to the frame. Not sure if this is the stock set up or not. I thought the problem was going to be the speedometer cable - it seems to move a good bit with handlebar rotation and would pull on the left side throttle cable. However, after putting the tank back on and starting it up, I had the same problem. Only reving to 2500 or so with rotation both ways. Frustrating. Should I snip all of the cable ties under the tank that touch the throttle cables? Would lubing the cables at the right hand grip make a difference?
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I don't have any of my cables tied on any of my bikes. My 82 did not have any from the factory.
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I pulled the tank yesterday and both cables are "loosely" zip tied (different ties) to the frame. Not sure if this is the stock set up or not. I thought the problem was going to be the speedometer cable - it seems to move a good bit with handlebar rotation and would pull on the left side throttle cable. However, after putting the tank back on and starting it up, I had the same problem. Only reving to 2500 or so with rotation both ways. Frustrating. Should I snip all of the cable ties under the tank that touch the throttle cables? Would lubing the cables at the right hand grip make a difference?
You're on the right thinking pathway, Disco Inferno. Look for anything that may intrude on smooth throttle cable movement. Are the forks pinching a cable at full lock -preventing smooth ops? Also, on your '79, do you have the single cable at the twistgrip with the junction box under the tank? Can't recall when the cable swaps, if any, occurred. Might be a hang up inside the under-tank cable connection.
Wouldn't hurt to snip the zips and see what happens. 34 years -lots of changes between POs could have happened.
It's something simple. Usually is. So don't go off on a big tangent chasing ghosts.
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79 should be twin cable setup and mine has no zip ties at all. The only routing decisions are:-
Which side of the headstock - My RH cable goes to the right and LH cable to the left.
Which cables are top and bottom at the throttle outlet - RH cable is bottom on mine but not sure if it makes much difference.
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THis may be the death of me. Extremely frustrating. Spent all kinds of time rerouting cables, cutting zip ties, etc. to find that I now still get a high idle - around 3000 rpms. How about the speedometer cable - Is that zip tied to the frame? I understand the increase in rpms when I move the handlebar, but why would it stay high at baseline with the wheel in the center?
Again, thanks for all of the help...
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Did we establish how much free play you have on the cables at the carb adjuster ? There must be 1 -2 mm and even with perfectly routed cables it does get used up with the bars at full lock.
Can't remember about the speedo cable but the clutch cable for definite should not be tightly tied at any point because it does move with the bars.
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Got it all figured out. Monte was right as usual - something simple. The throttle cables were fine with the tank pulled. As soon as I put the tank back on it was pushing down on the right throttle cable enough to give the high rpm. Found yet another way to route the right cable and problem was fixed.
Thanks again for all the insight.