The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: craig@pmpress.org on December 20, 2012, 04:54:34 PM
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Hi fellas,
I need to remove the rear (and probably the front) wheel of the bike (1983 R65). The manual says to use a drift tool from the tool kit. I ain't got one. What should I buy or use to get the axles out without harming anything? Thanks
Craig
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Easy,
either an Allen key fitting in the hole or a screwdriver of a suitable diameter.
The "device" is used to rotate the axles while you pull them out. And of course prevent them from rotating while you torque the nut on the other end.
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A # 3 Phillips screwdriver can be placed into the hole at the end of the axle, you pull and rotate to get the axle out .
You may need to use a rubber or plastic hammer on the nut end to get it started .
Grease or antiseize compound on the axle will make installation and removal easier next time .
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like they said - a short rod is needed - maybe nine to twelve inches long. There's a hole in the un-threaded end of the axle.
The manuals say to grease the axle when re-installing and it's a good idea. Just about every axle I've ever seen is rusty. A thin layer of grease will protect it and make it easier to remove next time - as already mentioned.
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I think any substantial whacking with drift should be a last resort and even if you have to use one I'd rotate the axle with a tommy bar first to free it up. A 10mm bar fits perfectly in the hole and won't cause a burr if you have to use some force to turn it. Fortunately the previous owner really looked after my bike so I've never needed a drift to remove either axle. I keep them greased especially that exposed part of the rear axle which can soon rust and look unsightly.
I would have thought the axles might have originally had some corrosion protection when new. Anyone know if they were plated ?
If they weren't it was probably BMW being concerned about hydrogen embrittlement which can be a problem when electroplating high strength steels.
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At least on my '81 R65, there was nothing on the axle to prevent rusting .
When the bike was put away for the winter, a bit of surface rust would develop in the 5-6 months of inactivity .
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do they have winter in arizona? cold dull and miserable here!
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At least on my '81 R65, there was nothing on the axle to prevent rusting .
Bob
While we are on the subject of bits susceptible to surface rust. Were the various steel oil filler/drain plugs plated ?
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I'm not real sure, I'll have to look when I get home from work today, it's a little after 0900 here now . .
My '81 has all of the original fill and drain plugs .
They may have had a zinc coating on them .
Since I moved to a dry desert region, I haven't seen any rust in over 19 years .
Except in two fuel tanks .
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My 82 I don't see any rust on axles or drain plugs. Here I Louisiana the humidy is normally above 50% most of the time.
Don
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The original tool kit hat a tommy bar about 7 inches long by 5/16 (or 10 mm) thick. I have made a couple out of some nice stainless rod for my friends - pretty!
That tommy bar goes in the hole at the left side of the rear axle and cams out the axle as you rotate it about 90 degrees.
When you replace the axle, ensure the hole on the left side faces aft and the swing arm is not sprung (check the pinch nut loose and bop the axle a couple of times toward the right with a piece of wood to let everything spring back to neutral set).
The same bar will work for the front axle except there is no camming surface.
Grease the axles lightly before you slide them back in.
Teo