The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: livingdeadhead on November 06, 2012, 11:25:34 AM
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bought a used seat today in vgc, slid it on the hinges pressed down , polished it tried it , couldnt get it open push button all the way in tug as hard as i dare , jammed ! any ideas? :'(
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Did you try sitting on the seat, or pushing down on the seat to lighten the load on the release mechanism ?
If this doesn't work, there are two Phillips head screws that hold the lock mechanism to the frame, it's a tight access area and you need something like a ratcheting 90 degree screwdriver to remove the screws .
Most likely they have never been off since the bike was built, so they will be a bit tough to get broke loose the first time .
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If you're dealing with an R65 -and please consider including your bike model and vintage in either your question, a sig line or with your avatar- you'll have an easier time removing the seat lock box after pulling the rear fender.
You may reach the Phillips screw heads on the back of the lock box with a 90 degree driver, but getting enough pressure on 'em to break them loose will give you bloody knuckles. [smiley=furious3.gif]
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Its probably off one of the hinges there are two small circlips on the end of the hinge pins if you can be bothered to fit the fiddly little buggers.
I have had this with mine and you need to be a bit brutal to release it, press the button while levering the seat up somewhere near the catch with a large screwdriver or tyre lever, it will release with out damage to the mechanism.
Lou
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thanks guys! yes it is a 79 r65 , ive tried putting weight on the seat and levering it , i put a small piece of wood under the seat not on the edge cos its vgc , thanks for the info , hey i've had bikes since i was sixteen , but i dont think i've ever met a more helpful friendly bunch before , i'll try those suggestions tomorrow, recuperating just now!
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[size=13]"It's like deja-vu, all over again."[/size] - Yogi Berra
Another perfect weather day in North Texas so rode the R100S to deliver a prescription to my 87-year-old mum. Stashed my gloves under the seat, hung my helmet on the frame loop and locked the seat. First time I'd used the seat lock. You can guess, right?
The seat lock "locked" but would not unlock when I was attempting to head home. [smiley=furious3.gif]
So here's ATGATT Monte riding down the highway wearing his leather bike jacket but no gloves and the helmet's floppin' on the side of the bike. Not a pretty picture.
Spent the next two hours getting the seat open. Using HD tie downs to compress the seat did nothing but help me bend, then eventually, crack the key. Ain't that just swell.
With the LWB bike and some fender clearance, I was able to get a 90[ch730] screwdriver behind the lock box and remove the two screws. This took some time and did draw a little blood.
With the lock box off, I could access the small screw and lock ring that holds the lock set in place. This chore required a short, small, flat-blade driver, a mirror and a flashlight.
After that struggle, it was possible to push the locking bar away from the seat peg and open the seat. Whew...
Examination of all the parts determined that the lock itself is gerfunken. "Someone" -most likely my late pal and PO Steve- had the same issue. The lock was beat up and had marks that appeared to be from a vise! Totally hammered, it is.
The pot metal seat lock box itself is cracked and bent from previous exorcisms. None of the damage is visible when all is installed. Lucky me, huh?
So, for now, the lock is in the dumpster and the seat latch is functional. I had previously purchased a new key lock for the '81 R65 and they ain't particularly cheap. Think I'll just ride commando for awhile.
Really glad the problem did not occur with either of the R65s. Those SWB scoots have all but zero space twix lock box and fender. And removing the fender requires an open seat to access the hardware.
I'm feeling your pain, livingdeadhead.
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thanks bud, been trying again today , solutions up to now are in no particular order, remove mudguard unscrew screws behind lock , cant access nuts of mudguard with seat on. 90 degree screwdriver, about 1" of
space clearance , sit on seat press button , (how will it open i'm on the seat?) hit seat while pressing button ,(bad seat! how dare you not open!) .
funny thing is i was in the upholsterers with my old seat and they said the place i'd just picked my spares up from had them , rang , they had 1 near new £80.00 about what it would have cost for reupholstery. rang them with my problem they said 'drop the mudguard' and 'fiddle with it'! the only solution i know will work involves stanley knives , hack saws and crowbars , but i doubt if i'll get a refund . >:(
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Wondering if it's possible to remove the 2 hinge pin c-clips, slide the seat off the hing pins and working the seat peg latch/lock from there? Possible?
I had a similar problem with the large seat peg that latches in the lock was ever so slightly bent causing a mis-alignment in the lock.
-Mike V. / San Diego
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i think that would only work by bending the hinges, ive tried pulling it back but its about a 1/4 inch its got to move and the hinges are shall we say ,substantial !. i think my best option is to trailer it back to the supplier
say its not fit for purpose , take it back and gimme a refund! i think youre probably right about the pin alignment.
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Only other advice I could lend is to have another body on the right side of the bike and either bumping the left side of the seat by smacking it with the palm of your hand, with the button depressed or pushing the left side of the seat with some force to the right trying to release the peg slot form the locking mechanism.
I feel your pain. Let us know what develops and what the cause was - if you get that far.
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pic
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I've had this happen too many times now not to have worked out a way out that works for me. Invariably the seat won't open because the seat is NOT properly on the two hinges ....one pin is just not in it's hinge hole! It is usually the front hinge hole. The pin is jammed on the side of the hinge. I take a large screwdriver to that front hinge and misaligned pin and wedge it a bit so that it goes into the hinge hole. All works then. I am paranoid now about closing the seat without an absolute confirmation that the pin is IN the hinge hole. WAPITA!
Why I don't put a circlip on the back pin??? Well it just keeps falling off and they are special circlips with a wedging-off lip that are hard to find for me. Also, the gas tank and battery come off easier if seat can open all the way up and over. Stays there better too...and won't just shut with a bang that usually ends up with the pin and hinge all messed up again!
So lesson...always use a strong flashlight to confirm proper alignment of pin and hole before shutting seat down!! It is one of my "arrrgghh" moments and usually happens when I am in a hurry.
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With the LWB bike and some fender clearance, I was able to get a 90[ch730] screwdriver behind the lock box and remove the two screws. This took some time and did draw a little blood.
Monte, now that you've taken the clasp off will you consider tracing a template for me? (I told you it could be done!)
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Monte, now that you've taken the clasp off will you consider tracing a template for me? (I told you it could be done!)
Just can't do it on an R65 SWB. No way on God's Green Earth to reach the lock set ring and screw without chopping up the rear fender.
I might advise livingdeadhead to yank the rear wheel and Dremel off the under-seat fender hardware to remove the fender, sans damage to it.
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yes its on the hinges ok, the tailpiece isnt on the seat and i can see the pin in the lock, i tried uploading a pic but its huge , dunno why
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tempted to saw through the hinges and take it back as is.....
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should i really be spending hours trying to sort a s/h seat? where do i stand legally , refund wise?
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Does the button feel like it is depressing fully, maybe you can get someone to lift the seat up while you tap the little tab that is the end of the locking lever. If you have a look at the front of the lock (facing towards the tank) you will see this small tab. If you hit it backwards it will force the locking tab as far forward as it can go and maybe release the seat lock post.
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tried that , a friends coming round tonight one of us will lift , one will press! fingers crossed!
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Don't just press the putton, hit the small tab at the side with a drift and hammer to get maximum movement of the locking bar. Even if it bends the thin backing plate of the lock it's better than cutting stuff off.
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i might give that a go, i have found tho i can get my hand up the side of the mudguard and get my finger on the left nut, i can possibly get an adapted spanner (bent!) on it , if i can drop the guard i can take the lock off , think that might work?
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... if i can drop the guard i can take the lock off , think that might work?
Yes.
The fender bolts are of a cheap, hardware store variety. I still vote for using a Dremel to quickly remove the items and get on with removing the lock set.
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be okay but my centre stands in for welding , watch this space!
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finally its off , the pin looks no different than the old one , can see NO reason it jammed, gonna take it back and have my old one recovered , wont be as original but ..... hey can you get replica covers in the us? :D by the way i used a bent spanner which i ground down to hold the top bolts . have i invented this method? lol
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Poor ol' Bengt Phorqs has been bugging me to pull apart the seat lock box on the R One-Hunert and make a pattern of the sliding lock bar for him.
I have no idea what he has done with his R-90's OEM piece, but he has ramped up his whining to the point where I spent a good part of Saturday doing his bidding. The things I'll do for free Shiners...
Prior to reinstalling the two long machine screws that hold everything together, I used my Dremel with a small cut-off wheel to notch the threaded ends of the screws. Now, if I should ever have a repeat performance of being locked out, a small flat-blade screwdriver will remove the screws from the outside. No more skinned knuckles.
Dabbed some black paint on the screw ends and the blade slots are all but indivisible. :D
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indivisible?
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indivisible?
So you're the one reading my stuff. SpellChek said I was golden. [smiley=whistling.gif]
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I'll bet a sixer of Shiners is to blame here !!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Texas, one Nation under God, indivisible, with liberty and justice for all.
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Texas, one Nation under God, indivisible, with liberty and justice for all.
Until a relatively short number of years ago, the Texas Constitution had a section that would permit Texas, by vote of the people, to subdivide itself into five separate states. The big question was always, "Who gets the Alamo?"
Would be interesting to see ten US Senators, all Texans. ::)
That loophole has been closed along with the law prohibiting the carrying of wire cutters in an individual's pocket. Think open range...
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Then that would make it, the United States of Texas !!! [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif] [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif] [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif] [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif] [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif] [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif] [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif] [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif] [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif] [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif]
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Formerly known as The Republic of Texas.
We're getting off topic... again.