The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: mrm on June 13, 2012, 08:05:10 PM
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is there an 'S' type fairing (like the R90S/R100S) available for the R65?
probably not, but maybe someone has seen something !?!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/33954075@N07/3390466896/in/photostream/
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Hello there!!
I bought a replica by EMGO, there´s a bunch of vendors in ebay that sells them at prices near $100... it looks pretty solid, usually comes only in black, and is made of plastic of fiber glass (not so sure about it).
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=cafe+fairing&_sacat=0
I haven´t installed it, but there are two things you need to know...
The brackets that come with it are not designed for BMW, so you will need to customize them somehow... and you will need to drill a couple of holes to make the front "turn lights" fit...
Ah yes!! the headlight hole is for the 7" diameter unit, there was some discussion about the fact that R65s come with 7" or 6" headlights... at least in my bike, the size was correct...
I will probably have it installed this week, should not be hard to do... I will post some pics...
I´m planning to do a paint job on the whole bike, so I want to try the fairing first just to confirm I like the way it works regarding wind and noise...
Good luck my friend!!
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One of our members here, marcmax, put from what I remember, looked like a replica of something like an S fairing on his LS, looks great on the bike .
Send him a PM to post a picture of it here, he may have something in the photo gallery, I don't have an account there, so I don't know for sure .
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The Wasp (Emgo) fairing is available at Dime City Cycles in Florida for $62. Easy and enthusiastic people to deal with. It has the 7" gap which fits the R65. Made of plastic in gloss black
Before you splash out and buy one I have encountered a couple of problems. The front brake master cyclinder (standard bars) interferes with the right side of the fairing forcing the fairing to sit about an inch higher than the headlight. The lower surface of the fairing also sits on the indicator stems at this level.
I intend to remove the R65 headlight bracket in one piece so I can reuse it if need be. I don't wish to butcher it as a replacement one costs a few quid. As I have an old RS instrument backet I will fit this and a universal headlight bracket currently on order from Motorworks in the UK. I need about a five inch extension on the side brackets. Dime City also has these for sale.
As for the indicators I am still deciding what to do there but will probably go for an aftermarket bolt on set or modify an old rear indicator stem. As the headlight will probably sit a little higher and a forward I may decide I don't like it after all. As the front brake plumbing passes through the instrument bracket each removal will result in a brake bleed, so I would like to avoid any reptition here. I will fabricate my own brackets for the fairing, probably in alluminium.
I should be able to fit the R65 rubber instrument surround with not much room for anything else inside the fairing, as it is quite small. I doubt I will be able to fit a clock/voltmeter combo in there.
At the end of the day I want a bolt on/bolt off system without butchering the original style of the bike. And mine is a black '84 R65 with red/white pinstripe. A gorgeous bike if I ever get it back to original.
I hope this helps someone if they consider going down the same path. I just have a thing about the 'S' style fairing.
Great forum and tons of ideas out there.
Cheers, Burt.
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Before you splash out and buy one I have encountered a couple of problems. The front brake master cyclinder (standard bars) interferes with the right side of the fairing forcing the fairing to sit about an inch higher than the headlight. The lower surface of the fairing also sits on the indicator stems at this level.
... I will fit this and a universal headlight bracket ...
As for the indicators I am still deciding what to do there but will probably go for an aftermarket bolt on set or modify an old rear indicator stem... ...I will fabricate my own brackets for the fairing, probably in alluminium.
At the end of the day I want a bolt on/bolt off system without butchering the original style of the bike. And mine is a black '84 R65 with red/white pinstripe...
I hope this helps someone if they consider going down the same path. I just have a thing about the 'S' style fairing.
Cheers, Burt.
Old Bengt Phorqs and I did the Barber Motorsports & AHRMA event year before last. The swap meet takes two days to properly shop. That's where I found a brand new and complete with hardware EMGO fairing, the same as Burt discusses, for thirty bucks.
My '81 R65 has the Euro bars. A Trail Tech Vapor digital instrument replaced the entire OEM gauge pod. The headlight, turn sig and instrument cluster bracket went into storage; replaced with a pair of headlight brackets which clamp to the fork uppers. These are also EMGO products.
The fairing's "universal" mounting hardware was tossed as it was never going to work with the short, low bars. And besides that, it looked universal.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R65%2FR65Screen02-1.jpg&hash=3df7c59b2060b829d7432a08087ebe4969817e07)
The R65 headlight fits just fine using the new headlight brackets. They, too, are EMGO products and allow for adjustments in the vertical and horizontal. Surprisingly, the small screen does a good job of knocking down much of the wind encountered while "sporting" down the highways.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R65%2FR65Screen01-1.jpg&hash=d941e99cee2b34fc2f04db1b48d2c6cfc7c62bd4)
Quarter front view but without the small, black streamlined LED turn signals installed on the fairing body. Was necessary to swap in a different turn signal flasher relay; one designed for use with LEDS and/or conventional filament bulbs as those are the rear sigs on the bike.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R65%2FR65ScreenBrkt02-1.jpg&hash=c4aa80095864dfbb63c480eea5989e0c8b55b9f2)
With the OEM light and gauge bracket removed, there is a tapped hole at the top of each upper triple clamp. It is a perfect place to anchor a simple steel bracket. The attach point at the fairing is in the position indicated on the fairing by a factory applied paint spot. Got lucky on this deal.
The lower attach brackets ar enothing more than small, straight steel tabs that also attach to tapped holes originally securing the bottom of the headlight metal plate. Two holes drilled in the lower part of the fairing ties it all together.
A word about the brackets: I began with card stock to determine approximate shapes. The attach point at the fairing is a straight bend. However, the bend at the triple clamp attach point runs diagonally across the width of the brackets.
Satisfied with the cardboard, I next made brackets from 0.75" wide hardware store, soft, architectural-grade aluminum. After confirming drilling locations and correct fairing position, I made the final brackets from 0.75" mild steel strip.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R65%2FR65ScreenBrkt01-1.jpg&hash=391d698fc744ad1897cd3b0f761fa69df34199a5)
Same top bracket on both sides. It was necessary to trim a little bit of the fairing to clear the master cylinder. Not noticeable. The fairing to screen hardware shown did not meet my expectations so all was replaced with cad-plated, aircraft grade AN hardware. No extra screw threads to catch you and NyLok nuts snugged but not crushingly tight -which may stress the screen and fairing plastic. Thin rubber washers utilized throughout the install.
With the simple brackets and QD front turn signal wiring, I have timed the complete removal of the fairing assembly in less than six minutes. The two upper clamp bolts. two nut/bolt combos on the bottom and disconnect two wire leads.
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I mounted a period correct Firth Designs Pirannah fairing that I picked up at a m/c flea market in Daytona a few years ago. It is fiberglass and was unused when I got it. Fabricating mounting brackets was not difficult but I did have an issue with the master cylinder clearance. Running straight drag bars I had to mount them slightly off center (approx 1/2" to the right) to even get the fairing mounted. I later switched to dropped clubman bars and clearance is no longer a problem but long rides are a pain in the back. Master cylinder clearance is seems to be the biggest issue with any of the "S" style fairings.
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thank you all for the info and pics.
beautiful bikes you have there.
the firth designs is an eye catcher.
i've been looking at the airtech offerings today.
http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/bmw/bmwboxer.htm
any experience with these?
thanks again for all the advice.
michael
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No experience with their fairings but I did buy one of the cafe seats from them. Nicely made, substantial fiberglass with an almost paint ready finish. A little sanding and primer and it was good to go.
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Marcmax, hello!! thanks for the tip...
This will sound dumb, but, living on a spanish spoken country gives me some "language" barriers from time to time...
What do you mean by "master cylinder"... the silver tubes that go down on both sides of the front wheel?
Thanks!!!
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Hi Fbenach. The master cylinder is the reservoir for brake fluid mounted at the brake lever on the handle bars. If you look closely at the picture I posted you will see that the fairing rests on the top cover of it. There is no way to open the top and add brake fluid without loosening the fairing mount on that side.
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Ohhh!! I get it!! I dint notice that on the pic!!!
I will take note of that... Im supposed to mount my fairing this week!!
I was wondering another thing... what about changing the headlight inner lamp? Is there any space to loose the screw that tights the silver ring?
Thank you so much!
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There is room to wiggle your hand in and change the headlight bulb with the fairing in place but it is not that easy. The fairing is mounted with 4 bolts and quick disconnects for the turn signals. It comes off in 5 minutes and is the way to go if you need to do anything up front.
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Here's my Wudo fairing, purchased used, mounted for fit before eventual re-painting. Scaled for an R65. Available new from Germany. Plenty of room for master cylinder. I have 90S bars installed. Mounts on turn signal stalks and two upper brackets, tilts down for access. I used the PO holes for instruments, which you can see were drilled off center.
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Nice looking, Steve. [smiley=thumbup.gif]
Your install technique is the same as the R90S fairing I'm currently wrestling with for Bengt Phorqs. About ready to shoot some primer after a wee bit more tweaking of the fairing to screen fit.
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i've been looking at the airtech offerings today.
http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/bmw/bmwboxer.htm
any experience with these?
thanks again for all the advice.
michael
Michael, that's the place where I bought my S fairing that Monte is working on. FYI, the headlight opening will be too large for an R65. Quality is generally pretty good but they do not sell the wind screen and there has been a certain amount of howling coming out of Planet Parkside in Denton about the screen/fairing mating surfaces. [smiley=beehive.gif]
But Monte was able to get a good fit but it took a considerable amount of effort on his part. Not doubt this will cost me an extra six of Shiner. I do have a fairing from an R65 at my house. If you would like to come take a look at it some time I'd be glad to show you. Send me a PM and we'll talk. -Mike
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Thanks for the info Mont. Kinda gives me a couple of new ideas.
All the photos posted just make me want to finish it sooner. When the &^%$ parts arrive .....
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Thanks Monte. Here's what I discovered about the install on our R65's:
With the turn signals removed, and the headlight mounting bracket unbolted from the bike, and pulled out a bit, there is room to slide the fairing over the hard mounted stalks, first all the way to one side which gives enough room to slide the other side in, which is just about impossible with the bracket on the bike due to interference with the forks. Then bolt the headlight bracket back in place. Voila. Of course a good idea to have a helper to hold the fairing while you do this.
I purchased the factory wiring harness for my instruments, which you can duplicate in about ten minutes. Except for the one aux plug, the green/black wire, everything is a piggyback tail using the existing instrument wiring under the tach. Just make certain your new harness is long enough when the fairing is flipped down.
I still have to make some slotted brackets to allow the headlight to be slid forward after the fairing is in position.
Have fun.
Steve
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I fitted an EMGO fairing to my R65 last year.
With some judicious and careful jigsawing, I made it fit and used the standard brackets that came with it. Some judicious bending on the brackets was needed.
Sourced from Harber's Cycles, Viola , Arkansas thru fleabay, US $69.95. The headlight fairing comes in black but can be spray painted if you are so inclined.
A few details on fitting http://www.bmwr65.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1310686799/16#16
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Well, here is my experience with the EMGO fairing... we finally installed last friday with a couple of surprises:
1. The master cylinder actually ended up clear from the fairing, so no problem there...
2. The brackets that came with it fitted from the box and no customizing was necessary (I read this was not the case)
3. There is a small (about 1/2") space between the headlight and the hole in the fairing, we will use a gasket from a R65LS to cover that.
We managed to sit the upper part of the fairing (without the windshield) on the back of the instruments housing, so it doesn´t move anywhere... it actually helped a lot regarding wind vs vibration...
Its a little bit noisy but with the helmet on, you can´t tell the difference...
Here are the pics, hope it helps!!
Take care!!
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Very neat job, much neater than my attempt at the indicator cut outs!
I would advise to add some lock nuts on the brackets, I even ended up adding lock nuts to all of the screen to headlight fairing bolt points as I lost one completely as it worked free after a bit of riding. Be very careful tightening these, don't over tighten! I did and caused a hairline crack, though luckily its not spread and is not very noticeable.
Also if you feel its vibing a bit too much, I found adding a couple of cable ties underneath to attache to the headlight mount helped.
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Good tip RSMike, I will do that!!!
Thanks!!
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Well done fbenach,
I've been looking at these fairings and wondering how they would look.
Thanks for the pics. I ordered one today based on your results.
A few questions if you don't mind answering them.
The more detail the better.
1. How did you determine where to drill the holes for the indicator stems? I have an idea but you seem to have got it pretty damn close.
2. Would you do it any differently?
3. How/what did you use to cut the holes out so neatly?
4. I have read somewhere that ABS plastic cracks/chips easily when cut or sanded. Did you find this problem?
Thanks and great job. [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif]
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Well done fbenach,
I've been looking at these fairings and wondering how they would look.
Thanks for the pics. I ordered one today based on your results.
A few questions if you don't mind answering them.
The more detail the better.
1. How did you determine where to drill the holes for the indicator stems? I have an idea but you seem to have got it pretty damn close.
2. Would you do it any differently?
3. How/what did you use to cut the holes out so neatly?
4. I have read somewhere that ABS plastic cracks/chips easily when cut or sanded. Did you find this problem?
Thanks and great job. [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif]
Based on my experiences fitting an EMGO fairing on my 1981 R65 plus mounting an Airtech fairing on Bengt Phorqs R90/6...
With the EMGO product, I noticed some paint marks on the interior but these proved to be only 'general area" assists. Removing the turn signals and running a trimmed to length small dowel through the headlight bracket tube can get you close... after you've mocked up the fairing's position using tape, sticks, another pair of hands, whatever it takes.
Conventional drill bits will not bore the larger, tidy holes for the turn signal stalks. Purchase a Forstner bit of the hole diameter you desire. Big box home improvement stores are your tool source. ALWAYS back up the substrate before drilling. Position a block of wood where the drill will break through. Secure the block and drill the hole through the fairing and into the wood.
I cut ABS material using a Dremel tool mounting a reinforced cut-off wheel. Get close to the final trim line but do not try to get a finished cut using the Dremel. The plastic will overheat so go slowly and let the material cool frequently. A belt sander plus a hard sanding block with a 150 grit paper will get you where you want to be. Large dowels or small tin cans are also helpful sanding blocks.
The raw edges can be wet sanded up through 1000 grit and will provide quite a polished edge.
http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/bmw/bmwboxer.htm
For information on fitting the Airtech fairing the Mike's R90, see:
http://www.bmwr65.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1339369244
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After riding with my Wudo fairing for some time now I have noticed several things: 1. Looks great and I like the added instruments; 2. More noise; 3. Much more susceptible to cross winds and buffeting from other vehicles at higher speed, meaning on the freeway. Be prepared.; 4. The leading edge of the fairing will take a similar beating to the leading edge of your front fender from the wind and grit out there; 5. A tank bag smoothes out the airflow. Without it there is some added turbulence.; and 6. The windscreen channels air right into your face, so be prepared for bugs and debris bouncing off your face shield.
I suggest rubber washers between the fairing and the mounting brackets as well as lock washers and/or some thread locking goo.
Just my two cents.
Steve
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[smiley=thumbup.gif][size=14]+[/size] on Steve's comments regarding the use of rubber washers. Get the sizes you need in the plumbing dept of the Big Boxers.
Personally, I never use split ring lock washers. They seem to easily damage aluminum and even steel components. BMW-style spring washers -also available at Big Boxes- are great when used in conjunction with vibration proof Ny-Lok nuts. Produces a very sanitary install.
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Agree with Monte on the spring style lock washers. Just buy a handful and keep them in your toolbox. You can't use a torque wrench with nylock nuts or split lock washers. Well, you can use it but the readings won't be accurate.
Steve
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Thanks Steve + Monte,
Steve are you more comfortable on the bike with the fairing? I'm led to believe (everything on the internet being true) that cockpits generally relieve body wind blast + therefore fatigue on big rides. Would you agree? Monte as a chippy (carpenter) I had envisioned using a good quality hole saw, the type with a central twist/guide bit and an outer ring of teeth. To aggressive? I've used forstner bits in timber but I'd imagine you might need a small pilot hole and maybe even set in a drill press with the fairing secured to prevent wondering :'(. From memory there's little difference in height between the outer blades and the central guide and bites in quite strongly once all cutting edges engage.
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Hello guys!!!
Well, I see that Montmil pretty much covered everything...
Just in case, here is my experience on the one in the pics:
1. We did not do any special maesurement to determine the position of the holes... You will see that once you have the fairing in your hands, you will be able to tell pretty close where they go. Although, we discover that the fairing is not perfectly symmetric when we fitted it and realize there was a slight difference on the indicator steem position on both sides... so, one ended up a little bit closer to the egde of the hole than the other, but you can hardly notice it when you see it.
2. What would I do the next time? I will try to drill the holes a little bit smaller. I might want to use a homemade rubber gasket for the separation that is between the headlight and the fairing main hole. The R65LS gasket we used is not thick enough to cover it, so that´s a pending task.
3-4.We used a 1.5" (I think) metal hole driller, and actually, we didin´t need to use any sand paper to finish it, the cut went out clean from the begining... we used a 4 speed driller, being 4 the fastest, we used speed 3. There was a little bit of heating... now that I read what Monte says, next time I will be more careful about the heating issue.
About driving, I agree with Steve, there is a little bit more noise and you feel a little bit more the crossed winds (nothing to worry about). The body resistance against wind was not noticeable, but I discovered, when riding above the 100kph, if you lower your head, it does get a lot better. But there ir a bonus, as far as I live in the tropics, where it rains a lot and heavy, the fairing kinda forms an air protection barrier, whch has made more confortable riding under water.
Besides that, I suggest replacing the bolts that attaches the windshield to the fairing, as long as they are not stainless steel, and got a little bit of corrosion pretty fast.
The bottom line is, the fairing is mostly a "looks" accesory more than "functional", which was my main reason to install it.
In the future, I will try one of those "fly screen" cafe ones, they look nice and kinda easy to install!!!
Take care guys, hope it helps!!
Fernando
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... Monte as a chippy (carpenter) I had envisioned using a good quality hole saw, the type with a central twist/guide bit and an outer ring of teeth. To aggressive? I've used forstner bits in timber but I'd imagine you might need a small pilot hole and maybe even set in a drill press with the fairing secured to prevent wondering ...
A working "chippy" would probably be comfortable using a good hole hole saw. It may heat the ABS which would mean just a simple smoothing after drilling. Tool experience is the key here. You're good to go.
For those wondering what a Forstner bit is, it's a drill bit that bores a flat bottomed hole, has cutting spurs on the outer diameter of the bit and scrapers in the interior. I love 'em. BTW, I used Forstners on Bengt Phorqs high-dollar fiberglas R90S fairing... freehand. No pilot holes req'd but I did have a very accurate "dot" marking the start point. Mike knows this as he was the "hold down clamp" for the work. ;)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R90%2520S-fairing%2520install%2FMikesR90603.jpg&hash=fa66649a8ae5e3e9ff1c190836bfa3955d917850)
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Thanks for the replies fbenach and Monte.
Monte you are dead right to recommend a forstner bit. I have since found other sites cautioning against using anything other than a forstner with ABS.
"A regular bit is too aggressive for drilling ABS; it will tend to jam itself into the plastic within one turn of the drill. Forstner bits work better."
Sorry I questioned your sage advice. [smiley=deal2.gif]
Beautiful looking bike Mike. Good job Monte.
Just have to wait for the fairing to arrive. Tick................................................................................................................tock.........................................
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... Sorry I questioned your sage advice.[smiley=deal2.gif]
Too funny. I really need to show this to Pretty Wife. She will certainly be [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif]
Couple other thoughts on finishing out (that's a chippy term) a fairing install:
Rubber grommets in a variety of sizes are available where ever hardware is sold. These cheap bits add a professional look to holes cut for turn signal stalks. They can also hide minor oops issues.
Both the ABS material and the plex windscreen can be edge polished after any reshaping via trims and/or sanding. Try to maintain a 90-degree sanding block-to-plastic contact. A tiny round over is OK but do not get carried away. I usually start with 400 and work up thru the grits to 1000. Wet-or-Dry used wet. Rinse the windscreen often but do not wipe the swarf away with a rag. The screen may be scratched. Rinse and blot dry.
There are several plastic polish products available that will remove or reduce hazing on the windscreen... although I've never been able to get my head down behind the low EMGO screen to check for bugs.
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Monte did do an exemplary job on my fairing but then he is a craftsman about these things. I must step in here though and say that the pin striping on the R90 are by Phorqs. Various colors and widths are available from your local auto supply store. Application is simple but do take time to plan the pin stripe design and where cuts are needed. I'm a proponent of Less is More.
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So here's another way to mount the Emgo viper/cafe/cockpit fairing.
I decided very quickly I didn't want to be drilling holes into the fairing until I tried it out on the road first and as I have low,short, flat non oem bars and a later model reservoir. Making it work meant new bars or major mods to the fairing.
So I sat the fairing on the indicator stalks and calculated the dimensions of extension brackets needed to make it work, bringing the headlight up and forward as little as possible whilst leaving the lower instrument shroud intact.
I fabricated two 55mm x 25mm x 2mm plates out of old aluminium angle, drilled elongated holes for M8 allen screws 3mm in from each end. Then I reshaped (bent) the supplied brackets to fit flat against the inner surface of the fairing,trimmed the lower tail of the bracket to accommodate the large chrome headlight washer, cold gal (supplied brackets and washers) and painted them all matt black in under 20 mins.
The kit included 14 rubber and seven metal washers.I placed the rubbers between the screw/screen and screen/body and the metals between the nut and body.
LOCKTITE every fixing!!!
I did have to elongate the four rear body holes with a fine round file to properly align the screen.
I placed the extension bracket at approx 45' to horizontal between the large chrome and rubber headlight washers with a SS washer and lock/nylock nut behind the headlight mount. As can be seen in the bracket pic I did have to bring the final position forward so the length of the bracket could have been longer by 5mm+.
The supplied brackets although identical didn't sit in the fairing symmetrically and the headlight was a tight fit in the fairing also, so this created a delay in what could have been an easy fit until I achieved the best result. An extra pair of hands would have been handy here.
I used SS M8 allen screws and washers to connect the headlight to the extension brackets. As I opted for a slightly forward tilt I used black electrical tape as a temp to prevent glare on the inside of the fairing at night.
I latter fabricated stiffeners running between the upper screen/fairing tails and the instrument shroud screws to stop pivoting and vibration using the same angle as for the extension brackets.
All up I reckon on 4+ hours of fiddling,fettling and twatting about to get it right.
The only down side to this method is that there is a noticeable gap between the fairing dash and instruments, which exaggerates any alignment issues.
I'm very happy with the fairing both visually and practically.
It works well in deflecting wind blast off my torso, I'm 6ft', so the wind is felt around the shoulders, arms and knees but not in a negative way. It performs really well at higher speeds, braking the "Ton'' comfortably.
Pics on there way.
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Neat!! for a second I thought I was seeing my own bike!!!
Excellent work, those extensions never came to my mind!!
Congrats!!
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Nice job! Now I suppose I will have to quit stalling and make my headlight extension brackets...
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after much time and many c notes...
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi648.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu204%2Ffreedom64%2FBEVO%2Fth_IMG_0491.jpg&hash=bea0a1b34a066ccbade7baae5c19c8a191315108) (http://s648.photobucket.com/albums/uu204/freedom64/BEVO/?action=view¤t=IMG_0491.jpg)
click on image for larger view
in all her oily mess, i present to you, 'Bevo', my lil' R 65 S 'ette'
still much to do, but i'm gettin' there.
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VERY nice, Mike. Hmmm... BEVO. Burnt Orange. Oh, now I get it!
What's your take on next weekends Texas v Okie game? Mr Ash and Company are looking pretty good.
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Interesting mirrors Mike. What brand are those and where did you find them?
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Interesting mirrors Mike. What brand are those and where did you find them?
they're large, inexpensive. not the final choice but they got me rollin' for now. ken sean is the package name i have.
they're online at the bay - brandless.
here's a link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BAR-END-MIRROR-REVERSABLE-VINTAGE-PART-BLACK-/150828072806#vi-content
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VERY nice, Mike. Hmmm... BEVO. Burnt Orange. Oh, now I get it!
What's your take on next weekends Texas v Okie game? Mr Ash and Company are looking pretty good.
thanks, and Thank You to all that contributed to the thread. so very helpful.
it's a different, better bike for me.
goin' with the horns even with brown down for wv.
it's fun either way.