The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Bob_Roller on September 24, 2012, 07:15:55 PM
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I got a Centech fuseblock today .
http://centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml
My original intention, was to replace the OEM fuse box, plus integrate the driving lights and an OEM accessory outlet, for charging from a battery tender .
Upon looking at the fuse block from Centech, it's going to be a bit more work than I had anticipated .
I had envisioned that you would connect a circuit to the fuse and then the output would go to the circuit down-line .
Well, there is a threaded stud that supplies power to all of the fuses, they are all 'ganged' together, a common power source .
My first thought, was to use the headlight circuit to use as the power for a relay to power the fuse block, but on the US bikes, the headlight circuit goes through a relay and the headlight cuts out during starter operation .
Anyone know offhand, if there is a spare terminal on the ignition switch that I could use as a switched power source to operate a relay to supply power to the fuse block ?
I've got a 30 amp rated relay from an airhorn installation, that got taken out by a thrown cap off of a truck tire about 8 years ago .
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I would have expected that they would have included the power relay in their design, and simply left you with the large terminals to wire straight into the battery and small terminals to wire for the relay switch power. Sounds like an area for design improvement, I think.
Do you already have a voltmeter connected to the spare green/black (I think it was black strip) wire up by the instruments? that should be switched from the ignition key and not disabled by the headlight relay, and it already has a connector on it - you'd have to run a wire back from there to the relay (under the tank I presume), and then from that back to where ever you are putting the fusebox.
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That circuit runs through one of the OEM fuses . :D :D :D
The fusebox showed up about an hour ago and I haven't gotten a chance to look at a wiring diagram yet .
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After looking at the wiring diagram for a while, here's what I came up with .
There's a gray wire and a green wire coming from the switch, the gray wire goes to one fuse, it provides power for tail light and instrument lighting, the green wire goes to the 'KILL' switch, then goes to the other fuse, that fuse provides power to the ignition .
My thought now, is to have the green wire from the 'KILL' switch provide the power to pull a heavy duty relay in when the switch is in the 'RUN' position, the relay will power the fuse box .
The wires that are on the down stream, or protected side of the two OEM fuses, will go directly to the output side of the new fuse box .
I wanted to run the auxiliary accessory outlet through the fuse box for battery charging, but that is not possible with the fuse block being a switched power source .
Now I need to fabricate a mounting plate for the fuse box, using .125 inch ( 3mm) thick aluminum .
My plan, is to mount the plate and fuse box under the left battery cover .
There is a hole in the upper left hand corner for a fastener and a metal tab at the lower right hand corner with a hole in it for another fastener in the left side cover area .
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Bob - I did essentially the same thing but I put a waterproof micro switch in with power right from the battery on my R75/7. Works great but I have to remember to turn off the switch. I like your idea and want to see how that works. As for the battery tender I ended up just connecting a cable to the battery for that.
Let us know how the kill switch works.