The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: luckyd20 on September 07, 2012, 01:11:28 PM
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Can anyone shoot me the torque specs to the Timing Chain Cover. Again the Clymers manual does a great job of not specifying the torque values. I've tried search but no luck.
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I seldom use a torgue wrench for anything other than head studs. Practise doing it by feel. Use a suitable sized ring spanner or a 3/8 " socket set with a short to medium length handle (or a long arm allen key if it's a socket head bolt).
If the fastener is into an alloy thread snug it up hand tight and give it a fraction more, if its a steel bolt through to a nut you can safely use a little more effort.
The last time I remember stripping a thread was when I used a torque wrench on the fork drain bolt, now I use a small ring spanner and go very easy.
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I just checked the BMW shop manual, there is no specified torque value for the bolts .
I know you don't want to hear this, but it's a 'feel' you get with working with steel bolts threaded into an aluminum casting .
About the only advice I can give, is to get a 1/4 inch drive tool, that has a screwdriver handle, you can put 1/4 inch drive sockets on it and tighten them up .
The method I use, is to use my non-dominant hand to do the tightening .
Don't know if it helps at all !!!!
You can always tighten up a little more, if you have any oil leakage, kinda hard to untighten a stripped thread .
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Got to agree. It is more of a "feel" thing and I have been guilty of over torquing by hand in the past. I tend to use standard length spanners not the long or short ones so have developed my own version of feel.
With low torque settings on nuts that are regularly removed for access or whatever I will tend to replace them frequently even though they may not look like they need replacement. I carry a standard selection of metric nuts as part of the toolkit.
When I worked in aviation we regularly used torque wrenches and they were religiously checked against a master so am always dubious about over the counter torque wrenches and their accuracy. More so at low end of the scale.
Just my two bobs worth as experience is a great teacher!
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Having replaced a timing chain and guides on the '81, IIRC the timing chain case is attached to the block with Allen head machine screws.
Most all the screws are well "buried" in recessed attach points. Use a cross-pattern tightening sequence with the Allen wrench and bring them up to an equal "that feels right" hand torque.
Screws should be installed dry. Don't forget the two small "donut" washers at the top of the case. These washers seal nothing but do prevent actually bending the timing case out of true as all the screws are tightened up.
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Thanks guys!!