The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Air4Life on June 26, 2012, 08:48:37 PM
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I replaced the fuel lines and came away feeling it should have been a faster operation. At first I had thought I was going to be able to fish the crossover piece through the lower forward corner of the airbox without a hitch. I lube and twisting the hose and got close...
I bet a wire hanger would have done the trick, but for some reason taking the airbox apart didnt seem like a bad Idea. Anyhow... now that I know how to take apart the airbox, next time I will try my coat hangar technique.
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I ran into that same problem when I tried fuel line that was too thick - got something at the hardware store - fuel line but a smaller diameter and it went thru airbox w/out a big hassle.
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You can open up the hole in the air box with a file, so the fuel line goes through easier next time .
Or use a length of .250 inch diameter steel tube through the air box, then put rubber hose on each end of the steel tube .
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Bob
Thats a good idea with the tubing. That would do away with alot of fuel line. I am going to have to do this also.
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Definitely Bob...
Its ideas like this I wish I could get back into plant 4's parts shed. Demolished for some time now.
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http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/mid/mid5722.htm
Do you think 3mm I.D. is sufficient being its only the right side?
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Do you think 3mm I.D. is sufficient being its only the right side?
Seems a little small as the rubber hose is 7mm ID. On the other hand at full throttle all the fuel has to pass through the main jet which is approx. 1.5mm so 3mm might be ok.
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... Or use a length of .250 inch diameter steel tube through the air box, then put rubber hose on each end of the steel tube.
Ask any plumber... The more joints you have in a system, the greater the potential for leaks
Something else to consider: The gasoline we have here in the USofA contains alcohol. Alcohol is hygroscopic. It absorbs water. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hygroscopy Water creates rust when in contact with steel. Reference the many rusted and leaky bottom seams in untended Airhead fuel tanks. This same alcohol/water/gasoline issue has begun to plague some owners of 4-wheelers whose steel fuel lines have low spots where water is now rusting out lines, creating fuel leakage.
Just run a piece of coat hanger through the case and push the new fuel line straight through. No biggie.
[smiley=2cents.gif]
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here's what my bike came as, and i don't know who like pinched gas lines, but i don't like pinched anything...
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F-K5TFv6yIJ4k%2FUAvWm0DDEkI%2FAAAAAAAAATo%2Fg1eSdaLP5lM%2Fs1600%2FIMG_0481.JPG&hash=51f90fc3ed0be3415c6261b1edd6ff5cdc0d6a4a)
so i bought 1/4" translucent blue lines, because i want to make sure gas is flowing if there is any problem, a 90 degree filter was like $3 at the cycle shop
yes i did take off the airbox but its only 1 bolt to undo it, just undid the Left side only and ran the lines through, make sure to spit on the tubing to get it on, its a tight fit
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F-riRjAKtnJJk%2FUAvWyFPKr3I%2FAAAAAAAAAT4%2F2rrE-6j28Vw%2Fs1600%2FIMG_0666.JPG&hash=0832bad3b658e6de6ad60dcfa10f4f04c1ec87e5)
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Great, thanks for sharing that one. I like that setup Sesssion101 I especially like that 90 filter. Have to find one like that for the next time its needed.
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Just run a piece of coat hanger through the case and push the new fuel line straight through. No biggie.
I guess I am tired or just slow Monte. Can you explain this technique in more words??? I have always worried about this fuel line crossover tight fit and thought it another BMW weird anomaly like the sidestand bolt under the header pipe hassle from way back before the Brown sidestand solution.
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Sure, Sue...
Cut the wire so that it will extend beyond both sides of the airbox. Poke the wire through the air box's fuel line passages and then slip the fuel tubing over the wire and start pushing. The wire is a guide to help the free end of the fuel tubing to reach the opening on the other side of the airbox. Sometimes necessary to reach over the seat and work both ends of the fuel line... wiggle, wiggle. Remove the wire guide. Trim and attach fuel line to fit as required.
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Yep, that hanger* technique sounds like a winner. Your time inside the hangar* probably helps give you the breadth and depth one can draw on in situations like this. Wiggle Wiggle :)
Funny thing is, when I disassembled the air box I thought I wouldn't be back in there for a while; and then a couple of weeks later I opened it all up again to slide the transmission back to perform the spline care.
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When you have the airbox off, take a file and open up the opening where the fuel line goes through, makes it easier the next time you replace fuel lines .
You may replace the fuel lines more frequently and not wait until it becomes a problem, if it isn't a pain of a job to perform .
A bit of dish washing detergent on the fuel line helps getting it through the airbox until you can increase the size of the opening in the airbox .
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What's the "blue" connection twix carb and head? Other side appears correct.
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Looks like non-OEM rubber hose .
Also, wouldn't be a bad idea to install worm gear type clamps on both ends of the hose .
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Just my own 2 cents, I've switched to Tygon and Vyton fuel line replacing the OEM cloth braided fuel line, a little more expensive but will hold up quite well with the corn juice being introduced into our gas these days. My OEM fuel lines were turning gummy and seemed to be degrading at a rapid pace. Another thing I like about the Tygon is the smooth outer surface, with some patience you can feed it through the air box. The correct ±7mm tube size will prevent the use of clamping hardware for a secure fit on petcock, carb & "T" fitting nipples. Non-metric fuel line is either too large or too small in my experience. The Tygon is very flexible and to this point has held up quite well in my applications.
I've used hangers and copper tubing inside the crossover fuel line to stiffen the tubing aiding to fish it through the airbox opening... with success some of the time.
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Looks like non-OEM rubber hose .
Also, wouldn't be a bad idea to install worm gear type clamps on both ends of the hose .
One healthy "spit back" and that carb may likely detach. Easy air leaks to screw up the mixture, too. I'd be OEM fixing that pronto.
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I've been using the Bing alcohol resistant blue polyurethane line for the past several years and I'm sold on it!
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A4L,
Justin recommends another great fuel line alternative. Session's improvement pictures say a thousand words. Night and day improvement. Here's a link (below) to some smaller good quality filters. Correct sized quality fuel lines and smaller filters will give you a much improved routing system with more relaxed fitment without the need for bulky clamping hardware and pinching of lines. Here's a link to some filters to give you an idea. I purchase mine from Bike Bandit, no personal affiliation. My guess would be most bike shops carry these filters in their inventory.
http://www.bikebandit.com/visu-filter/n4294966686
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I tried the right angle filter.
Total PITA getting it on, if your line is new and/or tight.
Impossible to get off.
I ended up breaking the filter in the line and had to replace both.
Maybe I was having a bad day?
But a mate of mine tried one with his GB500 with the same impression/result.
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Am I to assume that the following Bing fuel line is superior to the polyurethane line listed two below it:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ep/hose_fuel.html
I'd much rather have the poly fuel line for color matching considerations.
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At the Sedalia Rally, Paul Glaves said exactly the same thing - suggesting we use ethanol resistant fuel lines on our bikes about the rapid deterioration caused from Ethanol.
Good call by Mike V! Mine is fairly new, procured at the hardware store a year or two ago - probably used on lawn mowers - I'm keeping an eye on it.
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Air4 - I have used both and see no appreciable difference in performance and the price difference is so small it's a toss-up.
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The "Briggs & Stratton" lawnmower fuel filters are always more economically priced at hardware stores than the identical products over-priced at the bike dealers.
I also have had difficulty getting the filters on and even tougher getting them off. The fuel hose fits the Bings just fine but the hose i.d. is just a bit too small to easily slip onto the filter. So...
The filter body is plastic. The raised ridge on both inlet and outlet can be dressed down just a smidgen -that's a shop technical word here in Texas- using a mill file or sandpaper. Little bit off is all you need.
Both my R65s have these "race modified" filters. Snug fit, no clamps required and easier to remove when the tank needs to come off or whatever.
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I put some Superlube grease on the stock braided line and it slid right through the airbox. That stuff is right on the edge of being too large.
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What's the "blue" connection twix carb and head? Other side appears correct.
its high pressure fuel hose i picked up here in town about $1.75 an inch.. its double walled and works great, its rated up to 500 degrees, i could paint or color it but didn't want to, i wouldn't know how much OEM costs on that, mine were hard rubber and cracked
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Or just put a short length of hanger wire (or baling wire will do) into the old hose still in position, put the new hose over it to butt up to the old one, and push through. No need to jiggle or wiggle.
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Thanks Monte, Bob and Constellation for all the advice. Now I will not be so reluctant to do this job. LRB's last time at a mechanics for the rear main seal job resulted in him getting the best fuel line for anti-degradation...do you guys think it is still smart to change every 2 years or 3 years??? The reason I ask is the old saw..if it ain't broke, don't fix it"! But then there is that day at the hot, hot parking lot far from home and there it is...a leaking line!!! Gee and no coat hanger...oh yes there is..in the motel room!!
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A nice feature of the clear plastic filters is that you can easily lay the Mk1 eyeball on it and confirm if the interior of the line is shedding bits or not. Another good reason to use alcohol-resistant lines.
Unless you use the cloth-covered OEM style fuel hose, an occasional check for surface cracking due to ozone and sunlight degradation ought to put any hose angst to rest.