The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: jakebass12 on July 10, 2012, 12:26:41 PM
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i found a couple of links explaining how to do this. here they are.
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/pulseair.htm
http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-technical-articles/pulse-air/
and i think i found all the parts i need to do it on motobins. here are the part numbers.(i havent got the parts to see if they actually fit but when i get them ill post on this topic if they do or not. so order at your own risk, i dont want to be responsible for you ordering something that doesn't fit.)
here are the part numbers for motobins-
timing hole plugs-11680
oil drain plugs(stainless steel)-80041s
oil drain plug crush washers-04430
screws for the vacuum take-offs under the carburetors-60280
and the washers for the screws vacuum take-offs said it wasn't necessary.
and when i get the parts ill take a better picture of them and post it. ;)
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I yanked the pulse air system off both my R65s. I left the vacuum 'nipple' as-is on the carbs and sealed it off with a vacuum cap. Makes things much easier when you want to hook up your $4.00 manometer for a carb balance job. Otherwise, you'll need to keep up with the removed nipples and reinstall them for any carb tuning. Airhead simple.
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monte, what did you use to plug the hole on the cylinder? and did you notice a performance or increase of MPG when you took it off?
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The holes left in the cylinders, after tossing the air hoser mess, were secured with drain plugs purchased from Hucky's. You'll need drain plugs that use an Allen wrench to secure them in place. IIRC, there was no room for a socket.
I've noticed no gain nor loss in MPG nor any seat o' the pants change in engine ops with either the '81 or '83 R65s.
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I removed the system off of my '81 R65, in '83, no change in engine performance or fuel consumption .
The pulse air system, just puts fresh air into the exhaust, to continue burning fuel that didn't get consumed in the cylinder, to meet exhaust emission standards .
To the best of my knowledge, the counties around the Phoenix and Tucson areas are the only locations in the US, that require motorcycles to under go exhaust emission testing every year, as part of the registration renewal process .
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Here's a few pics of the conversion on my R100...
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thanks for the pictures Justin.
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If there is no performance gain, they why take the system off? As a purist I get it, and it looks better, but...
Steve
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Thankfully we never had that system fitted in the UK but if it had been I'd be offended because it's ugly and adds weight. Perhaps more important is that any sort of after burn in the exhaust would increase temperatures unnecessarily which can't be a good thing.
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If there is no performance gain, they why take the system off? As a purist I get it, and it looks better, but...
Steve
This question has been asked before. The best reason for removal of the Gubmint-mandated system was provided by Justin. He stated that air injected into the exhaust valve area increased the burn of gases and also had the potential of accelerating wear and failure of the exhaust valve and seat. This concern has been bounced around on several Airhead-related forums.
Secondly, the rusty steel piping looks so much better in the trash bin.
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I had one of the vacuum activated valves in the airbox go bad and had a vacuum leak that took a long time to find .
That's when it came off of my '81 R65 .
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Points well made. It always seemed a little Rube Goldberg to me. I'm sure it sounds better without the air injection too. Maybe I'll pull mine, after I get through the rest of the to do list.
Steve
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Mine got removed when I had the motor swap done and the mechanic said "well, I figured you didn't want to pay extra for me to hook it back up!"
That my friend is why you keep getting my business, it's like you read my mind!
(Less money on motorcycle = more money on beer.) [smiley=beerchug.gif]
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Is there any reason it can't or shouldn't come off my '86 R65?
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If you want it off, take it off .
Only caution I can think of, is that the metal part that is threaded into the head, may not want to come out after 26 years .
I don't know how common it is to strip the threads out on the head trying to remove this part .
You just need to plug the holes in the head and airbox and cap the ports on the carbs .
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Only caution I can think of, is that the metal part that is threaded into the head, may not want to come out after 26 years.
I don't know how common it is to strip the threads out on the head trying to remove this part.
That was a very real concern of mine when I made the decision to dump the system.
I placed some cardboard on the floor, under the heads, and did two days of frequent shots with PB Blaster. Kept the union damp for 48 hours. Slight tug on the socket wrench and away we go with no problems. Both R65s got the same procedure. Same results. YMMV
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I've been telling the kids at the bike shop who drool over the old girl that the PAIR system is a proto-type injection system, sorta like an after burner on a jet fighter. They think its cool.
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If you want it off, take it off .
Only caution I can think of, is that the metal part that is threaded into the head, may not want to come out after 26 years .
I don't know how common it is to strip the threads out on the head trying to remove this part . You just need to plug the holes in the head and airbox and cap the ports on the carbs .
Threads coming with the old parts is very common because of galling, mine went 2 for 2 and left me stuck but a 3/8ths NPT -18 saved the day, cut new threads in the head no drilling necessary, tape up and install 2 tapered pipe plugs not to tight to break the head castings, and off you go no replacing the heads for this now minor problem.
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i ordered the drain plugs off of motobins and they said that all the drain plugs are the same size. but the hole in the head is 16mm and the plugs they sent me are 18mm. :o so now i have 2 stainless plugs that i cant use. why wouldn't it fit. what are your sizes?
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What part number did you order ?
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the part number i ordered is 80041S. i contacted motobins asking if 18mm plugs was standard on all airhead models and they said yes.
What part number did you order ?
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I think I have your problem solved .
Here's the link to Snowbums airhead tech site .
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/pulseair.htm
If you read the article, it states you need the drain plugs from an R11XX series bike, oilheads, not airhead bikes .
The oilhead bikes have a 16X1.5 mm drainplug .
The airheads have 18X1.5 mm drainplugs .
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ok thanks :) i guess im going to order another set of plugs. ::)
I think I have your problem solved .
Here's the link to Snowbums airhead tech site .
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/pulseair.htm
If you read the article, it states you need the drain plugs from an R11XX series bike, oilheads, not airhead bikes .
The oilhead bikes have a 16X1.5 mm drainplug .
The airheads have 18X1.5 mm drainplugs .
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Another good solution is a pipe cap which fits the threads on the cylinder head fitting the injection pipe connector screwed on to. "Some say" you can get them in the proper metric size, but I'll be darned if I can find any. 16 X 1.5 "not tapered " is what Snow Bum suggests. Tried all manor of websites. Be nice not to have to worry about getting the cylinder head fitting out. I would pay DEARLY... :)
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This is what I did to plug the hole on the head. It is the original adapter with the hose end cut off, sealing it off with a neat brazing job that a local shop did for me. The holes in the air box where plugged with stainless steel bolts and nuts. Vacuum at the air box and carbs where capped off with rubber auto zone plugs.
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Check the hardware aisle at the big box home improvement stores for a bin labeled "hole plugs / grommets". Plastic or metal, there's one to fit the air box hole after the pulse air system is dumped. Black looks best with a dab of sealer on the inside to keep dust out. Looks factory.
Of course, there's always the BMW timing port rubber plugs but there goes your lunch money.
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OK, anybody looking for 16x1.5 pipe caps try the BATINC website and look for their part number 929 - M16. BATINC.net
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i already bought some timing hole plugs. XD but i still have enogh money for lunch. ;)
Check the hardware aisle at the big box home improvement stores for a bin labeled "hole plugs / grommets". Plastic or metal, there's one to fit the air box hole after the pulse air system is dumped. Black looks best with a dab of sealer on the inside to keep dust out. Looks factory.
Of course, there's always the BMW timing port rubber plugs but there goes your lunch money.