The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Red_Hen on July 13, 2012, 08:15:04 PM
-
Hi Gang,
Hope everyone on our side of the equator is having a nice summer!
Since getting my bike back from the shop (over 1 year ago already), I noticed my speedo instrument light wasn't working. After removing the instrument cowl, I discovered the person that worked on my bike used the instrument bulb wires to hook up my voltmeter - not real happy about it but I do know how to RX. ;)
Found one on Ebay - gonna buy a couple:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-BULB-SOCKET-R65-GAUGES-AIRHEADS-62141243799-62-14-1-243-799-62121244626-/300716008469?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4604122415&vxp=mtr#ht_1028wt_954
Also, would like to add - I bought the hyperlite bulbs last season - I believe Mike said he liked them. Removed the Tachometer and installed the LED bulb and WOW is it bright - thanks guys!
Other question: my bike has a brand new everything - the clutch cable, I purchased from Motobins a couple years back (Venhill) seems to be just about 1/2" too long. It works but the adjustment barrel on the handlebar is just about all the way out. I tried to adjust the rear but it seems the cable is just a tad too long - would be great if there was a way to block off on the back end - a split shot sinker comes to mind but I know it would never withstand the constant tension. I need to check my part number - wondering if the clutch cable the sell applies to a wide array of airhead models in my year range. May have to end of buying OEM from the dealer.
Hoping to meet some of you next week in Sedalia!
-
There should be an unused wire in the area of the instruments, a green wire with a black spiral band, you can use this as the power supply to the voltmeter .
You'll have to find a solid brown wire to splice into, in the area to use as a ground for the voltmeter .
There are different length clutch cables, if you have the narrow handlebars, the standard R65 cable, may not work on an LS bike .
-
Thanks Bob - he used the white wire with black stripe & brown wire to power the volt meter - guessing he snagged these from the speedo light socket wires - green wires are available - believe one is solid green and other green with a blue stripe.
I'll have to check my part # on the clutch cable purchased from Motobins - any suggestions on shortening cable?
-
Can't think of any suggestions on shortening the cable .
-
Hmmm, getting that 1/2" extra out of the clutch cable could be problematic - though if you aren't using bar end mirrors maybe out could slide the grip and entire clutch assembly just a tad further out on the bar...
I like the LED instrument light replacements alot, too.
-
The cable isn't problematic - yet - but as clutch wears will be!
Saw this link
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166
There's a welding shop nearby - will investigate further on feasibility to do this in a proper way.
-
If you are coming through Indianapolis, stop in and we can install my clutch cable for you.
Low bars, right?
The length of the cable doesn't matter (that is, it doesn't matter if it is made for high bars and used on low bars). What is important is the amount of cable showing outside of the sheath.
I measure 4 3/4" of cable exposed with it pulled toward the bottom end, and with the rubber boot slack against the far barrel.
As far as I know, all cables for a given clutch throwout type should have the same cable-to-sheathe ratio.
I don't see a different part # for the 2nd gen. Type 248s, so I expect they are the same.
In fact, I couldn't find a short cable for R65s on Max BMW or RealOEM. All they listed was a 1495mm long cable for the "high" or "US" bars.
I had to look at the R100S fiche to find a shorter cable - 1410mm.
I'm pretty sure those measurements are tip to tip.
-
You're too kind Rob!
Sedalia is a straight shot South thru Iowa & roads are great going thru Hanibal MO where Samuel Clemens lived.
Appreciate your info on cable length - will fiddle with this today & prepare wires for connecting to bulb socket on order for speedo light.
-
Another good reason to know your machine:
There is a barrel that attaches to the small nipple at the end of the clutch cable that attaches to the clutch lever on the handlebars. Well, I've been riding around on mine w/out the barrel. The same tech that spliced my speedo light socket wires to connect the voltmeter installed my clutch cable w/out the barrel. The barrel is important! I have one on order - they're easily lost in the event of a cable breakage, so I've read.
The long clutch cable may be ok w/out shortening - the adjustment barrel on the handlebar perch is super long - very awkward to turn but doable. If I were to shorten it, I'd take it to the local welder in town - it seems the nipple end is soldered on and is movable once free. It would take more than a home soldering gun but that would be my approach.
Moral to the story: Be Familiar With Your Machine!
-
I just took a look at the parts illustration for the clutch cable, there used to be 4 or 5 different lengths to choose from, you didn't know which one to order .
They made it simple now, one cable regardless of which handlebar you have .
How much free play do you have at the clutch lever ?
Supposed to be 2-3 mm .
-
Like Rob said, the free length is what's important, not the overall length. The free length of the exposed cable should all be the same.
I think your idea of reducing the length of the inner cable by repositioning the end is the best one.
It's stuff like this that makes it important the owner knows his machine and can work on it himself. As for the wiring, I've always said electrical is the hardest system for guys to wrap their wits around. And here is a tech at a reputable shop bodging things up!
-
Ken
Where would I find the hypelite bulbs for the tach & speedo?
Also, I'm riding "Poppy" to Sedalia, 82 LS. Looking forward to hooking up.
Jim
Michigan
-
My thread last year on LED instrument lighting upgrade-
http://www.bmwr65.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1318297528/0#0
-
... it seems the nipple end is soldered on and is movable once free. It would take more than a home soldering gun but that would be my approach...
Ken, You're correct in that an electric soldering gun would not be the best choice in attempting to de-solder the cable end fitting. However, one of the small and relatively economical butane torches would do the job in short order.
Secure the braided cable length in a vice held between some soft wood blocks. Torch the end fitting and pull it free with a pair of pliers. After cleaning off excess solder, reposition the fitting where needed and silver solder into position. Cut away excess cable and dress the end.
Check local big box home improvement stores for one. I use mine mini torch frequently.
Also, for those interested in such things, building your own cables from components can be done with parts from Flanders Cables. http://www.flanderscables.com/index.html
-
Thanks Monte for your suggestion & resource and thanks Mike for providing link to Jim for the LED lights.
I'd bought my LED's last year and hadn't installed them because I loathe taking off the cowling - not really such a big deal but it is mentally! To swap the traditional light bulb with the LED bulb, I removed the tach from the bike, turned it over and removed the (3) phillips screws - one is longer than the other 2. I took a picture to make sure I put it back the same way I took it apart. Was surprised how easy it was - was a little tricky fitting the black plastic knob like bulb socket holder back in - required a couple tries but got her done. Amazing how bright the light is!
Since cowl is off and I'm waiting for the new bulb sockets for the turn signals & speedo light, I'm sending my speedo to Wirespokes to repair the broken trip meter. I did some electrical work today and added a new hot wire to the green wire with black stripe with my trusty soldering gun - and also spliced a brown wire to an existing ground for the second wire.
Regarding clutch cable & adjustment - before I realized the cable length is a tad longer than I think it should be, I tried adjusting the clutch activation lever behind the transmission but the bolt is all the way in - no way to make the cable shorter. My only means of adjusting cable will be at handlebar perch but the barrel is super long and the clutch has been great for the past 1,000 miles - just needing a minor adjustment. If it becomes problematic, I will shorten the cable.
Was flirting with the idea of riding Tina to the rally but will riding my K75s as it is currently better equipped for a road trip than Tina. But I'm sure a road trip on an R65LS would be a blast!
Wish all of our great group were meeting in Sedalia but I'm equally grateful how we meet right here!
-
The warning about not using an LED in the headlamp bucket "parking" light is wise , nevertheless I have had a white LED from Superbrights in mine for a couple of years with no problems.
-
The turn signal "blinker unit" under the tank can be replaced with a solid state unit the timing of which is preset and not dependant on the current draw of the bulbs. Superbright has those units. Can't give you the part number yet because I don't know which automotive part the unit crosses to. Put one in my car which is now all LED, turn, stop, and marker. LED's will confuse "burned out bulb" systems in cars, however the burned out bulb indication for turn signals is fast ("ricer) ticking, and the solid state unit won't do that. Downside, you don't get a fast tick warning if a turn signal bulb is out, but, the leds last for thousands of hours. I still check, and stick my hand in front of the headlamp to be sure IT is still working during the day.