The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Dave 2 on March 26, 2012, 09:47:34 AM
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Here are a few pictures of the progress that I am making on cleaning up the Cylinder Heads. They required a good deal of hand cleaning before I glass beaded them. They came out of the beading looking good if I do say so myself. I have one big concern about glass bead residue. I did not remove the valves before I blasted them and I used compressed air to clean off the beads when I was finished. They appear to be bead free but I'm wondering if I should have the valves removed and then clean everything again? Or is there some way of additional cleaning, without removing the valves, to be sure that any bead residue is gone? Any thoughts? I know that glass beads can do damage...Thanks D2
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I would suggest removing the valves and do a cleaning then, there's no way to get all of the blasting media out of there with them assembled .
To look at it another way, glass beads are just fused sand, so now you have an undetermined amount of 'sand' in there .
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I've heard too many stories of sand or glass beads remaining imbedded or lodged everywhere, even places blocked to them, to ever consider using that media for engine cleaning.
Guys who have successfully used this cleaning method also wash the parts many times over to ensure all grit is removed. I'd use a dental pick to ensure the plug threads are all clear. Make absolutely sure there's no grit in the head bolt channels, pull the valves (ensure no grit is on the top of the stem to score the valve guide) making sure to remove the ridge before withdrawing (standard practice).
Time may have been saved by blasting, but now it's best to spend it on cleaning. Bake the heads at 200 degrees, wash in hot soapy water, dry, and do it over again. You can't be too careful! Inspect every nook and cranny! And be meticulous about it.
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Thanks for the information and confirmation about just how damaging the beads can be. I will have the valves removed or get a tool to do it myself, and clean the daylights out of everything. [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif] D2
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Less aggressive blasting media is available, walnut shell, or other 'organic' materials, plastic, take a bit more time to get things cleaned up, but you don't have as much of a concern about contamination afterwards .
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Dave,
I'm in the process of getting my engine parts vapour blasted and have been advised to clean clean clean, the oilways could be an issue...
IMO, it's a small price to pay for the finish, just wish the P/O had looked after the bike properly and put it into storage properly, then I wouldn't have had to do so much cleaning!!!! >:( >:( >:(
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Then again, he'd probably have asked a whole lot more than you paid! ;)
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Wirespokes,
Yeah good point, I only paid $350 for it... 8-)
Boy, am I paying for it now...
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LOL
We call that "sweat equity". ;D
Good thing our time is free, huh?
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I was spending way too much time and effort trying to clean up some parts by hand and the results were disappointing. I love the finish that the glass beads give so I would rather take the time and be super careful with the post beading clean-up to get the "Look". Anyway the deed is done and now I will start to clean. D2
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I think it might make a difference how high you set the pressure when blasting - doesn't really need to be very high at all - maybe 30 - 40lbs. It's less aggressive that way, but also doesn't imbed the beads as badly either.
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I wonder, if the electrolysis method would work on aluminum ?
I know it works on iron / steel parts .
http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsaeta/electrolysis.html
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Don't forget about the soda blasting method. It's posted somewhere on the forum. As our British cousins would say, "works a treat" when cleaning grunge off of engine parts. I soda blasted a couple of Bing carbs I picked up on ebay. Monte soda blasted his fork legs. Makes 'em look really good and dirt cheap.
Aha! Found the original post from November 2009.
Soda Blaster for Carbs
Just enter that title into the search. Since then I've used this for numerous parts and can attest to it's efficacy.
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Dave (and others),
I got my first lot of parts back from the vapour blasting guy, the wheels look amazing and the rear drive hub casing looks like new. I will post some photos to show just how good the finish is.
The guy that did them said the reason the finish is so good is that the end result is only as good as the quality of the casting, shows BMW quality after 31 years, 33k miles and no real care or cleaning...
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I got my first lot of parts back from the vapour blasting guy, the wheels look amazing and the rear drive hub casing looks like new. I will post some photos to show just how good the finish is....
Chris will you Lacquer the parts or leave them alfresco?...i use walnut shell in my brass bullet casing cleaner which is non invasive and does a good job on black powder residue but not big enough for bike bits one of my friends does soda blasting which were i to do an engine rebuild i would use as the results are impressive and no risk of residue damage.
Lou
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Do ask what's involved in the vapor blasting! The name implies or gives the impression it's just water, but in fact usually involves sand and water. One of the 90S guys here in the states sent parts over to England to have them vapor blasted thinking it was the best way to go, only to have the engine fail prematurely due to contaminants.
So be wary - and do inquire how it's done. If they won't tell you, assume sand was used and do a very thorough cleaning!
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Guys,
Check out the website: http://www.vapour-blasting.co.uk/index.htm
The parts came back in pristine condition and completely clean, I really cannot believe just how amazing they look.
Time will tell if I have problems, my sense is that it will be fine.
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Lou,
I'm going to leave them alfresco, I have ben advised to use AFC 50 (?) to help protect the finish...and keep the bike clean!
Chris
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In their promo they say they do use some sort of abrasive, so I'd go over everything again, just to be sure! It's a bit late when parts are scored and oil pressure goes down.
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Will do Wirespokes,
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I caught that note of resignation! ;D
Thanks for humouring me.
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Wire,
I wasn't humouring you I can assure you!
I will ensure that they are clean before re-assembly :)
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Wire,
I wasn't humouring you I can assure you!
I will ensure that they are clean before re-assembly :)
Thanks! That makes me feel a LOT better! ;)
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Lou,
I'm going to leave them alfresco, I have ben advised to use AFC 50 (?) to help protect the finish...and keep the bike clean!
Chris
AFC 50 is supposed to be good, not everyone stocks it though eBay may be you best bet.
Lou
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Thanks Lou,
I'm on it,
Cheers
Chris