The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: revperry on March 17, 2012, 01:58:50 PM
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I can't seem to find a photo of the neutral switch on the bottom of the tranny. Anyone know where I can find one? I'm in the process of installing a new neutral switch (J B weld applied) on my '82 R65.
revperry
Lake Havasu Ctiy, AZ
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www.maxbmwmotorcyle.com has a schematic, but not from the angle you seem to be looking for. Having replaced this switch before, note their suggestion below and follow it. I initially tried to replace it without doing this and it was extremely difficult if not impossible. Once I realized how easy it is to remove the shelf spacer, the job was nearly a breeze.
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51897&rnd=03252011
To replace the transmission switch, we suggest the following technique. Remove rear engine stud #7. Then using a long aluminum drift (wooden dowel would work) drive the “engine rear shelf spacer” back (towards the rear wheel) about ½ inch. You will be working on the left side of the engine, using a hammer and drift. Don’t forget to use a new aluminum washer on the new neutral switch.
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Here's a picture of one installed on a transmission .
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=bmw+motorcyle+neutral+switch&view=detail&id=99AA019CEAB7B789E88C8FCC2524AC925C24A36A&first=0
There's a few pictures in there that show the switch removed from the transmission .
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Once the new one is in, check it for operation. I've replaced a few of these that needed two washers to work properly. It's not much fun to re-do the whole job just to add a second washer! 8-)
And don't overtighten the switch as that can torque the body and cause it to start leaking.
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Any Words of Wisdom on how to drive the “engine rear shelf spacer” back to gain access to install the new switch?????
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Ok... the spacer is in the freezer Chillin'
The trick is to drive the spacer forward and it will come free.
Replace (and test) the neutral switch then drive the spacer back in place from the back.
She's a tight fit so I'll heat the pan with a heat gun then drive in the chilled spacer.
That's the plan at least.....
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I used a small sharp file on the various edges as the original fit is very tight. Basically a clean-up. I'm sorry to admit that the only drift and crowbar marks on the bike are on that spacer. It's never going in by hand and you can't get a soft blow to it without the poxy thing going too high. Once it gets started, chisel on top to stop it going up, crowbar to encourage it forwards and tappy-tappy with 3/4lb hammer to edge/wiggle it in. The alloys are very good quality so it's hard to properly mutilate.
Bending the switch connector slightly is guaranteed. Getting the spacer 1mm too far forward also guaranteed. long tapered punch down the hole, tapped sideways useful for sorting that one. Cracking the fresh JBWeld is optional.
The very long bolt needs tapping back in no matter how central the spacer and how clean the bolt.
A relatively memorable experience ;D
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Wow… done!
Thank you, it was just as you described.
What I should have said in my description was to Remove the old switch then drive the spacer forward to remove. Yes a rather memorable experience. A little too much hammering for my liking. :smash: