The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: wilcom on February 06, 2012, 07:34:24 AM
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Does anyone have one of these? Looks like a pretty good cure for the $2000 "O" ring. It was listed at 219.00 Euro's which sounds awfully cheap for all that machining...........is this "snake oil" or is it really $900 +shipping? I want one !!!!
http://www.largiader.com/tech/oilpan/
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi457.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fqq292%2F1980r65%2Fspinonfilter.jpg&hash=d8e4fa958948e0719c63423dce0f3950d3f4e13c)
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Good lord! Talk about an oil filter in harm's way...
Bob Roller daily rides his R65 through the streets of hell; excuse me, make that Phoenix, Arizona, and has done so for decades. I'd enjoy hearing his comments on the "item". [smiley=thumbdown.gif]
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It appears to be a "sump extender" as well as an oil -filter relocation device. So, your ground clearance would be reduced, as well as placing the oil filter right up front where the front wheel will throw things at it all day.
Might be OK if you rode on tarmac roads all the time, but I wouldn't want it on a G/S, that's for sure!
The Motoren Israel guys do come up with some ingenious/good stuff, but personally, I don't favor this one.
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I'm just trying to figure out how it works .
It looks like the right hand round portion with an o-ring is meant to fit into something on the engine block .
I've only had the oil pan off of my bike once and I don't remember seeing anything in there that would work with this part .
I'm thinking you may need to machine the engine block to make this work .
I think I'd pass on it, too many unanswered questions and quite pricey !!!!!
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You will have to remove the oil filter housing to install this.
Don
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You will have to remove the oil filter housing to install this.
Yes I agree the filter tube will definitely have to be removed and then the device presumably seals in its place with guess what - an O ring.
One thing not mentioned is that you effectively get an oil cooler with the filter stuck out in the breeze.
As the very last thing I need is cooler oil I think I'd pass too.
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After seeing where the oil pan ends and the distance from there to the front of the timing cover, I think there's plenty of room.
As for using off road, I'm thinking it would be easy enough to create a shield to protect it. Maybe even a bash plate that extends far enough.
Another idea would be to mock up an insulated shield to encapsulate the filter. That would keep it warmer and protect it as well.
And just think of the increased crankcase volume, besides the bit of extra oil carried in the filter.
The filter change really isn't a big deal once you've got it all sorted out, but if this set-up can take cheaper filters, it could save ten to fifteen bucks every oil change. That's something to consider.
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The filter change really isn't a big deal once you've got it all sorted out,
Of all the great things my R65 does for me( and other Beemers along the way)the two most frustrating things it does is require me to lube the splines and lay on my side on the floor dismantle my fairing to remove the filter. Plus the fact that I have to worry about depth and do I use a paper gasket, was it the white "O" ring, was it a black "O" ring? Jeez lets go to the Bum's site and make sure........
So what happens is, I say screw it, and don't change the oil. Then I hate myself for being such a A-hole about it. This conversion would allow me to change my oil at will. The cost isn't bad if the site is correct about $300-$350( after conversion). That's only 1/2 the money I'm going to spend to rebuild my tranny cus I didn't lube it's lil splines.
I'm hearing a lot of bashing and negativity, the ADV site hammered it pretty hard... but yet to find a review from anyone that has it one on their bike........I'll keep poking around
If I could just find that Zerk fitting for the splines, life would be good.
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I never saw it come up on Adventure Rider. I'll have to check out the thread. Also, I must have read that wrong - I thought it was $220 instead of $220 euros. That makes it more like $300 plus shipping - starts adding up fast. And that's a lot of money to me these days, especially when it's not that much of a problem changing the oem.
Joe, it's better to change the oil and leave the filter for every other oil change. Filters actually filter better the more used they are - you just don't want to let them go too long, otherwise they'll restrict the flow too much and collapse. But for every other oil change, it's fine. And just inspect the O-Ring coming out - if it's compressed - squashed about the right amount - you're good to go.
And I'm with you on the rediculous situation of how difficult we have it changing a dumb filter! I guess it goes to show the rest of the machine must be pretty spectacular if we put up with such nonsense. I'm of the view that nothing on this blasted planet is perfect so the solution is to find what comes closest to my purpose and either suffer the down-side or fix if possible.
Joe, are you talking about the transmission input splines? If it shifts fine, don't worry about them. And I agree there too - it's pretty silly these things can wear out and you don't hear of cars and trucks having this problem. But working as an auto mechanic I was tought to put a very thin layer of grease on the splines when doing a clutch. So that part isn't so different.
But back to the filter thing - I think it's a great idea! If it wasn't so damn expensive, I'd try it out.
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But back to the filter thing - I think it's a great idea! If it wasn't so damn expensive, I'd try it out.
Back to top
Is it "snake oil" or a good thing? We are about to find out.........I just ordered one !
Subtotal €193.77 EUR
Shipping and handling 48.00 EUR
Total €241.77 EUR
Payment €241.77 EUR
Payment sent to info@motoren-israel.de
From amount $325.86 USD
To amount €241.77 EUR
Exchange rate: 1 U.S. Dollar = 0.741944 Euros
It was $325 US delivered with gaskets. That's a bunch of machining and engineering for little more than the price of a new brake rotor.
Seems like a deal to me, we will see, I might have a box of "snake oil" on it's way to my door step..............
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...the two most frustrating things it does is require me to lube the splines and lay on my side on the floor dismantle my fairing to remove the filter.
The spin on filter thing is not for me but I do know guys with fairings who curse at the prospect of a filter change. In fact I just met someone who's new to airheads, has a fairing and can't believe it's so involved.
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...the two most frustrating things it does is require me to lube the splines and lay on my side on the floor dismantle my fairing to remove the filter.
The spin on filter thing is not for me but I do know guys with fairings who curse at the prospect of a filter change. In fact I just met someone who's new to airheads, has a fairing and can't believe it's so involved.
He's really gonna be torked if he ever steps up to a faired oil/hex head BMW. [smiley=tongue.gif]
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...As for using off road, I'm thinking it would be easy enough to create a shield to protect it. Maybe even a bash plate that extends far enough...
That's exactly what a very few Suzuki 'Wee'Strom 650 riders -and a couple bike magazine reviews- keep wondering about. A fairly decent dual-purpose bike but that "punch me now" oil filter...
Suzuki's response is that their customer and market surveys reveal that more than 90% of the buyers of this particular model never leave a paved road. Gosh, are there really such things as ADV poseurs? ::)
Monte
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Looking at this a bit closer .
If the filter was at the front, wouldn't the oil filter canister area be on the opposite side of where the round part with the o-ring on it, would fit into it ?
Even if you rotated the part 180 degrees, it still wouldn't mate up to anything in the oil pan area .
It's not making much sense to me !!!!!
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We can all look forward to Joe's install. I imagine it'll fit. I'm kinda wondering about any "trimming" that may be needed on the Herr Head's fairing.
Please post up some snaps, Joe, when you git 'er done. [smiley=camera_sm.jpg]
Monte
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Even if you rotated the part 180 degrees, it still wouldn't mate up to anything in the oil pan area .
It's not making much sense to me !!!!!
What if the filter tube is removed and that cylindrical bit that looks like it has an O ring mates up in it's place ?
I don't expect they come out that easy though. If they did we'd all be putting in the rolled edge ones to do away with the shim.
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To the best of my knowledge, the filter is located on the right side of the engine ( at least on my R65's it is), that round part on the adapter is on the left side .
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This kit is a spacer between the oil pan and engine. The oil filter canister will come out and the round part of the spacer goes where the canister slides into the engine block up inside the engine. The oil filter cover will go back on to cover up this hole that will no longer have a filter.
Don
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Does anyone have picture of the bottom of the engine with the pan removed ?
I've only had the oil pan on my R65 off once and that was about 29 years ago .
If you remove the canister, is there an opening in the bottom of the engine for this part to go into ?
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Crikey, I change the filter every second oil change, buy a filter that fits well from NAPA for ten bucks; takes 15 minutes and I'm done. What's the big deal? But I don't have a fairing on the little R65.
Now we could talk about changing the oil and filter on a TDI Jetta. Two hour job with the underbody cowling. . .and it is easy to crimp the O-ring.
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Here's the actual installation instructions. I take "dismantle the outer steering column" to mean remove the filter tube. I think that lost some clarity in translation.
Incidentally I was right to be concerned about the oil cooler effect. They claim a 10 to 15 Deg (presumably deg C) reduction in oil temperature. That would be a very bad thing for the engine in our climate. Those of you living in desert climates would welcome it no doubt.
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Is it "snake oil" or a good thing? We are about to find out.........I just ordered one !
Hi Wilcom - this is a great idea I think. I'm still pulling my bike down as I work thru its resto. I'm thinking of fitting an extension to the pan anyway so this might just be the better option for me here in Oz where I can sometimes be riding in 35 to 40 degree temps. Would you be kind enough to PM me when you have it all fitted (or otherwise) so that I can check out your experience. I don't get on to the site very often and I would hate to miss the end result. Good luck and Thanks mate ...............Adian
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The lower oil temperatures are a welcome addition here.
Although the fact that is lowers the oil pan further and puts an external filter in a very vulnerable spot does not appeal to me. I have already experienced a bashed-in old oil pan due to flying road debris and broke a centerstand spring due to a deformed speed bump.
But even so, that looks like a good piece of kit. I'd be interested how it works out on your R65.
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Would you be kind enough to PM me when you have it all fitted (or otherwise) so that I can check out your experience. I don't get on to the site very often and I would hate to miss the end result. Good luck and Thanks mate ...............Adrian
I will Adrian. It will be a month or so before I get to it as I am in the process of putting the fairing back on and that project has been stagnated for some time.
I'm going to put on a oil pressure gauge and see what I have now for a base line and then document the conversion. The abbreviated installation instructions are kinda scary. I hope steps 9-16 weren't lost in translation LOL
I know, to most folks this is tossing 3 bills at an issue that really isn't an issue, but as my state of antiquity advances I get a tad more "pissy" at lil things that bother me and laying on the floor taking my fairing apart to change the oil filter bothers me.
I got notice this morning from DHL that it shipped so the bundle of snake oil is heading my way.................
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Although the fact that is lowers the oil pan further and puts an external filter in a very vulnerable spot does not appeal to me. I have already experienced a bashed-in old oil pan due to flying road debris and broke a centerstand spring due to a deformed speed bump.
To keep the stock ground clearance, one could always replace the oil sump with the shallower G/S sump, and even mount a bash plate.
I'm looking forward to this conversion! Hurry up DHL!!!
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Thanks wilcom - I have ME/CFS and a fair bit of Fybro Myalger as well so anything that will reduce the effort needed to do proper maintenance is also welcome in my life. Look forward to hearing from you and seeing more piks ............... Adrian
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Looking at this a bit closer .
If the filter was at the front, wouldn't the oil filter canister area be on the opposite side of where the round part with the o-ring on it, would fit into it ?
Even if you rotated the part 180 degrees, it still wouldn't mate up to anything in the oil pan area .
It's not making much sense to me !!!!!
I'm almost tempted to suggest that the image has been reversed, accidentally. Although I can't imagine them making such an obvious blunder.
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I could have sworn that there was an oil pan spacer out there that had a spin off filter in the BACK. i believe it rendered the center stand useless but it was really cool lol. I know i have so now i'm hunting it down...