The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: raymr on October 26, 2011, 07:14:11 PM
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Hi,
I'm new here and just wanted to say Hi. My R65 is a blue 1986 with 20K miles. It was owned by my dad, and it had been sitting for 5 years since he got ill and passed away. It had a winterizing service done 3 years ago and that's the last time it was touched.
It's in very nice shape but there are, as always with something this old, a few issues. I'm going over it and seeing a few things like the foot peg rubbers and kick stand bumpers need replacing. Since I'm ordering stuff online, are there other little assorted bits that I should just replace for good measure?
The battery still has a slight charge and I topped it off since it was low on water. The parts guide shows rubber straps as well as a screw down clamp. Right now it has neither, so the battery is kinda flopping around in its holder. Do I need both kinds of fasteners?
Anyway there's a lot more to check out. Hopefully I'll be cranking it over in the next few days. Thanks for any advice.
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Welcome to the forum!
The monolever bikes used a top screw-down plate type thing with (2) long threaded rods on each end of the battery to hold it in place. That is what was on my '88 R100RT - the older twinshock bikes prior to your model used the rubber straps.
I'd check all the fluid levels/condition to see about changing them before trying to light it up. Was the fuel tank stored dry with a light oil coating inside - or full of gas (hopefully, if it was full of gas it at least had a good dose of Stabil added, but I'd imagine that a fair amount of gas would still evaporate out over the years).
We can get ya fixed up and on the road again. How are you with tools, and is this your first motorcycle? First BMW airhead motorcycle?
W
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Hi Ray,
Congratulations on inheriting your late father's bike and for the opportunity to keep his love alive!
I hope you'll enjoy your R65 as much as we love ours! Quite a bike!
A real machine!
Like Mike suggests, probably good idea to change tranny, drive shaft and engine oil and add fresh fuel.
Check tires - you may want to replace those after you've established the mechanical worthiness of your ride. Check fuel lines for cracks and probably good idea to change fuel filters.
Hopefully you'll get her running in time before the snow flies!
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Sorry to hear your father passed away. It was my dad who introduced me to motorbikes when I was 9 yrs old. Welcome to the forum and enjoy tinkering with 65.
:^)
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Welcome to the forum!
The monolever bikes used a top screw-down plate type thing with (2) long threaded rods on each end of the battery to hold it in place. That is what was on my '88 R100RT - the older twinshock bikes prior to your model used the rubber straps.
I'd check all the fluid levels/condition to see about changing them before trying to light it up. Was the fuel tank stored dry with a light oil coating inside - or full of gas (hopefully, if it was full of gas it at least had a good dose of Stabil added, but I'd imagine that a fair amount of gas would still evaporate out over the years).
We can get ya fixed up and on the road again. How are you with tools, and is this your first motorcycle? First BMW airhead motorcycle?
W
The tank is pretty full. It smells normal, if that's anything to go by. I'm not a professional mechanic but I'm comfortable with tools. I wrench on my own cars, and have pulled motors, replaced exhausts, and been crawling under cars more than I care to think about. :) I've learned that patience and determination are the best tools to have.
I had a Kawasaki S2 many many moons ago. And yes this is my first BMW airhead.
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Welcome to the forum!
Before starting the engine for the first time pull the spark plugs and crank the engine till the oil light goes out. I'd crank it a while after that point as well. That will pump oil to everything that needs it, since it will all be dry after five years.
Then, once the bike is running - with it on the center stand - put it in gear and run it that way till it warms up. This will splash oil around in the transmission and final drive to hard to reach place that need lube - like the front output trans bearing.
This way you'll know that everything will be lubed with no bearings running dry when first loaded.
Also, lube the cable ends! Grease gets sticky after sitting so long and the barrel ends won't swivel as they should. What happens then is the cable flexes at the barrel with every move of the lever. Eventually the strands break and you're left with no control. Not any fun trying to ride without a clutch or throttle cable!
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Hi Ray,
Congratulations on inheriting your late father's bike and for the opportunity to keep his love alive!
I hope you'll enjoy your R65 as much as we love ours! Quite a bike!
A real machine!
Like Mike suggests, probably good idea to change tranny, drive shaft and engine oil and add fresh fuel.
Check tires - you may want to replace those after you've established the mechanical worthiness of your ride. Check fuel lines for cracks and probably good idea to change fuel filters.
Hopefully you'll get her running in time before the snow flies!
It is quite the machine. It's more interesting to me than the Goldwing which my dad also left me. I'm not sure I can keep both bikes so the BMW would be the more sensible one IMHO.
I checked the fuel lines and they are a little dried out at the tank end. Probably best to replace them too.
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Make sure you get the same diameter fuel lines - I bought replacement hose at the auto parts store and it was just a little thicker in diameter and ended up being too thick to travel thru the little hole that goes to the starboard carb - mine is an R65LS '82.
Sounds like you're process of getting bike going is sound.
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You asked about any little bits to add to your order from the dealer....what about oil filter kit..pretty basic and some of those wee grommets for holding the battery sdie covers on, if you don't make your own like Monte did...there's a thread on that here on the forum somewhere. Other perishable items...hmmm...check the rubber holding the gas tank on front and rear rubber bits. Rubber around the gear shift foot lever. Rubber around the front turnsignals as they enter the 1/4 fairing. If it has the luggage racks, rubber bumpers sit in the wee holes and a rubber plug goes in the tranny viewing hole too. If you ever want to remove the emission control plumbing (on an '86???) those gear box rubber plugs can plug the holes left in the airbox.
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You asked about any little bits to add to your order from the dealer....what about oil filter kit..pretty basic and some of those wee grommets for holding the battery sdie covers on, if you don't make your own like Monte did...there's a thread on that here on the forum somewhere. Other perishable items...hmmm...check the rubber holding the gas tank on front and rear rubber bits. Rubber around the gear shift foot lever. Rubber around the front turnsignals as they enter the 1/4 fairing. If it has the luggage racks, rubber bumpers sit in the wee holes and a rubber plug goes in the tranny viewing hole too. If you ever want to remove the emission control plumbing (on an '86???) those gear box rubber plugs can plug the holes left in the airbox.
Good stuff, thanks!
My dad tended to make his own replacement parts since he worked for a fabricating company. I'm finding random neoprene bits here and there that I know aren't stock. He also created a stainless steel rack on the left side and bolted a briefcase to it, but it just looks a little too strange. I hope he forgives me for removing it. ;)
Are there any vendors that have better prices/service than others? Any to avoid?
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Chicago BMW used to offer discounts, but sadly, that has come to a close this summer. We usually use the online microfiche on either MAX BMW, or AScycles.com to look up parts #s, and shop for price. Some parts are fine to use alternates, others not so much. Most folks trust the Mahle brand oil filters (BMW OEM) or WIX, things have been a little hit or miss with Fram oil filter kits. Folks here will steer you right if you need help/ask assistance!
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I contacted MAX BMW and a helpful guy there told me that if we use a big battery, (7x7x5) then use the hold down clamp and threaded rods. The smaller battery uses the straps. The big battery requires a different tool tray.
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Thanks.
I got it cranking and did that a couple times. I was worried about the oil light since the wire partially melted on the front muffler but it seems fine. Now I'm tempted to get it started but I think I'll wait til I get the new fuel hoses installed.
Welcome to the forum!
Before starting the engine for the first time pull the spark plugs and crank the engine till the oil light goes out. I'd crank it a while after that point as well. That will pump oil to everything that needs it, since it will all be dry after five years.
Then, once the bike is running - with it on the center stand - put it in gear and run it that way till it warms up. This will splash oil around in the transmission and final drive to hard to reach place that need lube - like the front output trans bearing.
This way you'll know that everything will be lubed with no bearings running dry when first loaded.
Also, lube the cable ends! Grease gets sticky after sitting so long and the barrel ends won't swivel as they should. What happens then is the cable flexes at the barrel with every move of the lever. Eventually the strands break and you're left with no control. Not any fun trying to ride without a clutch or throttle cable!
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Welcome, I think you are starting off just fine with your Dad's gift. I can't think of anything that has not been already mentioned other than lights and tire pressure. Have Fun,D2
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Good stuff, thanks!
My dad tended to make his own replacement parts since he worked for a fabricating company. I'm finding random neoprene bits here and there that I know aren't stock. He also created a stainless steel rack on the left side and bolted a briefcase to it, but it just looks a little too strange. I hope he forgives me for removing it. ;)
Your dad sounds to be a lot like my late father-in-law. I also inherited his r65 (AND an old Goldwing) when he passed away two years ago. He too just built his own solutions when something broke. ;D I'm in the middle of getting his (my) r65 back on the road after a year-long layover.
These bikes are fun to work on, and very EASY to work on. That's coming from a newbie shadetree mechanic. And if I can do it, you can. There is lots of knowledge and great people on this site. Don't be afraid to ask questions.
Welcome! Looking forward to seeing some photos of your r65!
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Wow. Are airheads and Goldwings a popular combination? What years are your bikes? Are you keeping them both? My dad was a German with a capital "D". He did a lot of clever stuff, but his fixes are wearing out and I'd rather get the original type stuff where possible.
Your dad sounds to be a lot like my late father-in-law. I also inherited his r65 (AND an old Goldwing) when he passed away two years ago. He too just built his own solutions when something broke. ;D I'm in the middle of getting his (my) r65 back on the road after a year-long layover.
These bikes are fun to work on, and very EASY to work on. That's coming from a newbie shadetree mechanic. And if I can do it, you can. There is lots of knowledge and great people on this site. Don't be afraid to ask questions.
Welcome! Looking forward to seeing some photos of your r65!
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Wow. Are airheads and Goldwings a popular combination? What years are your bikes? Are you keeping them both? My dad was a German with a capital "D". He did a lot of clever stuff, but his fixes are wearing out and I'd rather get the original type stuff where possible.
My FIL actually built a hybrid Goldwing/BMW sidecar rig that was shown in several motorcycling magazines in the late 1990's. I have the article posted around here somewhere if you're interested.
I believe my father-in-law was of German ancestry, with quite a bit of Scottish in there, too. I'm definitely keeping the r65 (it's a 1981). You can see my transmission/clutch rebuild thread here. (http://www.bmwr65.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1318011644) As to the Goldwing: It is a complete basketcase 1976 "naked" (stripped of all the fairings and bags, etc). It's too far gone for me to save and I've been trying to sell it. Unfortunately, my bro-in-law, who is taking care of my father-in-law's property, left the 'wing out in the rain and rain got down into the engine, so it's frozen solid. Might be salvageable but *I* am not going to do it.
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My FIL actually built a hybrid Goldwing/BMW sidecar rig that was shown in several motorcycling magazines in the late 1990's. I have the article posted around here somewhere if you're interested.
I believe my father-in-law was of German ancestry, with quite a bit of Scottish in there, too. I'm definitely keeping the r65 (it's a 1981). You can see my transmission/clutch rebuild thread here. (http://www.bmwr65.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1318011644) As to the Goldwing: It is a complete basketcase 1976 "naked" (stripped of all the fairings and bags, etc). It's too far gone for me to save and I've been trying to sell it. Unfortunately, my bro-in-law, who is taking care of my father-in-law's property, left the 'wing out in the rain and rain got down into the engine, so it's frozen solid. Might be salvageable but *I* am not going to do it.
Its a shame about the Goldwing. Mine is a 1989 in pristine condition. To me it looks like a big blob of fiberglass and plastic. I don't even know where it opens to find the battery! ::) I'm torn about selling it because its so nice, but I can't have it just sitting in the garage.
I am getting more excited about the BMW. I'm looking at replacement windscreens, since the NC one is old and cracking. The Givi A32 I've seen somewhere on here looks pretty nice. Good luck with yours!
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I have a fondness for the original goldwing having almost bought one in the mid 70'S but there were a few things not to like such as weight and the black painted exhaust and overall quality of finish compared to european bikes.
I think a very early one would appreciate in value as there is no doubt it was a landmark motorcycle of it's type with an astonishingly sophisticated engine by the standards of it's time.
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I too have an R65LS and a 1996 Gold Wing. These two bikes couldn't be more different but they both have endearing features.
Whereas the R65LS is small, light and nimble, the GL1500 Gold Wing is very large and heavy. The 6-cylinder Gold Wing engine runs like a sewing machine. It has no vibration and pulls like a freight train. I can set the cruise control and ride one-handed (left hand!) on the highway.
Servicing the two bikes is very different as well. You'll find the Gold Wing is a pain when it comes to removing the Tupperware to change oil and filter. Air filter replacement is also painful. Fortunately, the machine will go 7,500 miles between oil changes and air cleaner change intervals are much longer. There's no valves to adjust and the rear drive unit is solidly reliable.
The BMW boxer is probably the easiest motorcycle around to self-service.
Its a shame about the Goldwing. Mine is a 1989 in pristine condition. To me it looks like a big blob of fiberglass and plastic. I don't even know where it opens to find the battery! ::) I'm torn about selling it because its so nice, but I can't have it just sitting in the garage.
I am getting more excited about the BMW. I'm looking at replacement windscreens, since the NC one is old and cracking. The Givi A32 I've seen somewhere on here looks pretty nice. Good luck with yours!
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Pictures?
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Here is a photo of my basketcase 1976:
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi50.tinypic.com%2F1h5n4x.jpg&hash=544d50ff158b3cb64eda6695da82f0ac42386108)
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IT LIVES!!
Fuel hoses arrived today and I spent the afternoon putting them on in addition to other little tidbits.
It fired up after 3 tries. I kept it on the center stand and ran it in gear for a few minutes as suggested. It sounds great, just a mild ticking on the left side.
I also managed to take apart and repair the light switch. I filed down the contact plates until they were shiny copper again. It seems like a sturdy unit since it took some twisting and bending to get it back together. And that little ball bearing was a bugger to get back in. After seeing the price of new switches I figured it was worth a shot.
So now I have a question. How do you route the front brake line and speedo cable so they don't interfere with the steering lock? After some more cleaning and inspecting, I found the brake line worn through to the inner braiding in that area. I guess I won't be going anywhere past my driveway until I replace it.
Are there any closeup pics showing how cables and wires should be routed and fastened?
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It was a nice day out, so I gave it a quick wash and snapped some pics.
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Ray, what a nice bike! Mine is a 1986 R65 also, same color (Azure Blue). I'm sure you will enjoy riding it as much as I do as it's a perfect all around cruiser. I bought it in March of 2010 with 32,000 miles and in very clean condition. One thing to check is speedo accuracy. Mine was reading about 8 mph too fast and I was a hazard on the road. The kind folks on this site turned me onto Foreign Speedo in San Diego. They repaired it for under $100.
Wavy Dave - Northern Michigan
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Dave,
I think I have the same speedo situation. An indicated "60" MPH feels much slower (by 8-10 MPH as you say), but since this is the first time on a bike in many years, I wasn't sure. What had to be done to get it fixed? Did you have to send it to their shop? Is there a DIY remedy?
Your R65 looks pretty fine too!
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Nice bike mate, make sure you check the front and rear brakes for good strong opperation and feel. swap out the old fluid as that stuff would have sucked up a lot of water over the years, brakes may feel good cold but if water in them they will fade out when warm.
and yes keep the Beemer and sell the Jap thing to buy parts.
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I took a hand held GPS (Garmin Nuvi) along for a ride and that told me the real speed. I sent just the speedo head to Foreign Speedo, after taking it out of the instrument pod. They had to reglue a gear to a shaft. While some guys may want to try to fix it themselves, there are many many tiny parts in there... and a new head is around $400.
Good Luck!
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A free speedo check involves a safe driving buddy in a late model vehicle with a digi speedo and you on the R65. Use a lightly traveled multi-lane road and let car guy roll at a steady 60 mph -or whatever speed you may choose. Ride in the adjoining lane and pace him. Ta Da!
There's a calculation on this site somewhere that provides rate of speed at specific revs in each gear. That could be helpful, too.
Here's a tip... If you're passing everyone on the road, you may be exceeding the posted limit. Ride safe - arrive safely.
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Nice bike... on the speedo issue i did some research in the interests of science and found that in top gear you do 15mph / 1000 revs depending on final drive, i did have some pictures of the cable routing which i posted on another thread but i cannot find them ?? i will post them if they turn up.
Lou