The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: mendozeal on August 09, 2011, 03:20:50 AM
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hey guys, I have been lurking for a long time now, dreaming of the day I would buy my beemer boxer. Last saturday, I sealed the deal on a 79 dual spring r65, with the flat top 32 bing carbs with 19xxx miles, for 1500$
apparently she sat for about a year, (on the coast) with the very occasional start. had been backed into lightly, small dent on left tank, missing the right mirror. she made the 150 miles of twisty cali mountains. from sausalito to mendocino like a dream. all the low end torque I dreamed of. I have put about 200 or so miles on it since.
It was/is leaking a small amount of oil from the bolts on the little valve rods that are under the cylinder, (I have no idea what to call it) slow leak, figured I would replace as much as possible once I got it opened up. patch the rest. and a couple more little little leaks, (I have been keeping a close eye on all the fluids.) just old rubber needing attention. and then the list of things to change/upgrade/add, that has not stopped getting longer yet.
I have had no trouble with it (besides buying a new battery, and a little bit of playing with idle adjustments. (waiting for clymer and bing shop manual))until this morning, when it wouldnt start. It wanted to catch, and started a couple times for about 5-6 sec, once or twice on choke, once or tiwce without. seemed like it wanted to run, but couldnt get past the low start idle to warm up, and bogged out with even the smallest amount of throttle.
tried all the tweeks I know, after almost 2 hours frustration set in, so I pushed it in the garage, and got out my wrenches.
1st, put the new battery on the charger, just in case.
got the gas tank off, inspecting electricals, air filter, looks like it needs cleaning but nothing shocking...
my first thought was it had to be the carbs, pulled off the floater, and the flat top (waiting for shop manual) but from what I can see without disconnecting any thing more, It appears clean.
the plugs are a little dirty, but nothing that appears shocking
Ill check valve clearance as soon as my manual shows up.
I am not the greatest mechanic, but I am a quick learner... please bear with me... sorry if this is a repeater, but lurking gets old..
should I check the coils? Icu? starter, points, and well :-[ how?
timing? some random fluid that eludes me? it does sound a little rough when it doesnt catch and start.
is this worth taking to a shop?
PLEASE! any advice at all, ;D I am all ears, and just eager to finally post here!!!
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Where to start.
First off the leak under the cylinder sounds like your push rods seals are leaking and if they have never been changed you may need new ones. Not an easy first job to do so I'd put that at the back of the queue for now.
As for the starting problem you need compression, fuel and a spark.
Compression - might be a good idea to check the valve clearances. There is no easier engine to do it on. Get the engine at TDC by centring the OT mark in the flywheel inspection hole (rubber bung) and both valves on one side can be set. Inlet .004" and Ex .008". Rotate the crank 360 Degrees and set the other side. You can rotate the crank with the plugs out by using an allen key in the alternator screw. Remove the front cover for access but be sure to disconnect the battery first.
Fuel - after your starting attempt were the plugs wet ? if so fuel was not the problem unless you had too much. Try starting with no choke. The carbs may need a good clean and new O rings anyway.
Spark - If it's stock you have points ignition which is very straight forward. You may have tried this but crank the bike with the plugs connected and safely grounded on the heads so you can see how strong the spark is.
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Your R65 idles but immediately dies when throttle is applied?
I'd clean the carburetor jets and cavities thoroughly especially the small enricher intake at the carb bowls as they tend to clog up very often.
+1 also on the Valve clearances, proper settings here will make a world of difference.
Congrats on the R65; sometimes it would seem to be a good idea to drop kick it out of frustration but I assure you that your hard work will eventually pay off ;D
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Your short ride home may have sloshed some water pooling in the tank bottom on the side opposite the petcock. Might also consider removing the tank and draining it completely. Watch for bits of tank liner that may be clogging the petcock screen and keeping the engine silent.
Try carefully popping off the float bowls and look for some water droplets or junk.
Start with simple things before throwing difficult and/or non-productive tasks at the bike.
Welcome to the herd. Most of the BMW Airheads issues turn out to be the simple stuff.
Monte
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after months of lurking, it stokes me out that THE monte replied in less then 24 hrs to my first post. haha keep up the amazing work guys! really excited to be a part of this fourm!
(lol Julio, no drop kicking yet, maybe a mild tempt, but this is my dream bike, since I was 16. Being in its presence still seems surreal... too much love for violence ;D)(thanks for the reassurance!!!)
push rod seals sounds accurate, and at 1 hr shop labor it seems worth it..
Today Im replacing the plugs, wires, air filter, o rings, fuel filter, running seafoam, and cleaning the carbs, cleaning electrical connections, changing all fluids, changing fuses, bleed brakes, maybe checking valve clearance (I may lack the confidence unless someone reassures me..(waiting for haynes download or clymer mail (what specialty tools required?) and some spot rust removal) and hoping it will fire up, to get to the shop tomorrow, and test charging system...
I got it pretty much dismantled last night, tank is off and drained, can you recommend a tank cleaner product?? or just some tedious elbow grease? (advice)
and I am doing headlight restoration, change/compact tail light cluster have to pull a small dent out of the tank, rust stop and bondo bottom of seat (or replace with a seat with extra interior cargo space?) do a sissy bar, and custom bag mounts (for my hiking gear (includes guitar, keyboard, ukulele, bass, and other music equip..) I would like a windshield (with hand protection)(call me what you want but I wanna put some miles on this thing in relative comfort.) and whatever else is on my list that isnt in front of me...
I have to ride it from CA to IL, with gear, hopefully in the next week.
my little brother IS somewhat of a mechanic and can help alot with further modification.
after IL, I ride back to CA, get my dog and a sidecar, (idea is to do a solo music tour, with just my dog, on a boxer, I have since recruited a girlfriend so the plan has changed a bit, but I still bought the r65!!!) and hopefully find a way to get a toyota rv to carry the r65 (at >400lbs shouldnt be too hard, and I can always dismantle and put the sidecar on the roof)
then tour the US, then Canada, Mexico, then back to NY where the r65 will be put on a boat and sent to meet me meet its forefathers (GERMANY) (then tour europe, asia, south america, and keep going and going and going till I die.)
I have a camera, and a 4g hotspot, so you guys will be by my side the whole time!!
Sorry for the wordy message, I have been waiting a long time to share this with you guys...
(I I just sold my babied e30 325is, in champagne, this r bike matched, so couldnt say no!)
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maybe checking valve clearance (I may lack the confidence unless someone reassures me..(waiting for haynes download or clymer mail (what specialty tools required?)
I promise you it's easy. No special tools needed just feeler gauges and a few spanners. The only thing to remotely worry about is not to over tighten the nuts when you put the valve covers back on. Just snug them up. The gaskets tend to last for ever and don't leak.
The manuals are a good resource but they are not going to give you the full story they'll leave things out and tell you to do things you shouldn't like re-torque the heads every time before checking the clearances. Now that's something to worry about as the torque figures they give will likely be a bit too high and you'll risk pulling threads. Re-torqing heads every time is not necessary in any case. Leave that job to when the pushrod seals are done as it has to be done then.
In fact why not just measure the clearances for now and report back. all you have to do is remove the valve covers and rotate the engine to TDC.
If you really want detail instructions you can trust and I do mean detail check out Snowbums web site. http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/setvalves.htm
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thanks barry, thats alot of help!
just got back from autozone with parts and paint ;D
getting to work after we dump the rv waste tanks :-X
Ill post results tonight
(you guys are amazing, best forum ever!)
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To make it even easier on yourself when you adjust the valves -
I don't bother with taking the front engine cover off to turn the engine by the rotor's bolt (I'm also concerned of possibly constantly overtightening the bolt). I just put the transmission into second or third gear with the bike on the center stand. I can then turn the rear wheel while sitting near the timing window hole in the engine case, and can easily watch the valves on the left hand side at least to tell when I'm getting close to TDC on the flywheel. This just seems easier to me than trying to hit TDC while squatting down at the front by the rotor, then getting up to check the mark in the window-oops, not there yet, going back to front of bike, etc....
It also means you have less to take apart. AND AN IMPORTANT BIT OF INFO - DO NOT TAKE OFF THE FRONT ENGINE COVER WHILE THE BATTERY CABLE IS STILL CONNECTED! IT is easy to short out a terminal on the diode board while trying to wrangle the cover out from behind the front crossover exhaust pipe, and if you do this while the battery is connected, well, then you'll get to learn about replacing a diode board.
Oh, and welcome aboard!
-Mike
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halfway finished, the basics at least... still disassembled. Chickened out on valve clearance till I read more. Carbs clean as a whistle. plugs replaced, tank removed and drained completely (definitely dirty). thinking of upgrading cables, starter, and charging systems. dynacoil brown? yay or nay?
does anybody think this will help reliability? or any other quick upgrades for the quickly upcoming cross country?I have to order parts like yesterday.
Ill get back when I have it reassembled tomorrow.
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dynacoil brown? yay or nay?
Dyna coils are considered an excellent replacement. From memory it's the dyna green coil you need for a points ignition. Which ever colour it is the primary resistance of a replacement 12 volt dual output coil should ideally be 3 ohms to match the pair of stock 1.5 ohm 6V coils. A little higher than 3 ohms would be OK but it certainly should not be less than 3 ohms.
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... dynacoil brown? yay or nay? does anybody think this will help reliability? or any other quick upgrades for the quickly upcoming cross country?I have to order parts like yesterday...
Not the "Brownie", the other one. For all questions, concerns and purchases regarding your R65's electrical and charging systems, call Rick Jones at Motorrad Elektrik. http://www.motoelekt.com/index.html Rick handles the Dyna coil product line. His on-line catalog is an education in itself so bookmark him.
Rick runs a one-man band (note here the music reference, Sparrow) up in Northern Alabama. He supports the Airhead culture big time. Both the telephone call and the advice are free... even if you're not buying something that day.
The Dyna coil is excellent insurance. I would also suggest new tires capable of handling your soon-to-be new hack rig. Carry on.
And do listen to New Hamp Mike's front cover and battery cable advice.
See if you can spot my problem... [smiley=rolleyes.gif]
Monte
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R65%2FDiodeBoard-Toast.jpg&hash=aa2579c4f233ff31767cffddd49cb74ce2ce64a7)
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It's possible the bike wouldn't start because of improper technique. The throttle should be off (or mostly so) for the choke to work. Once it starts to catch, open the throttle a little bit.
Get connected to the Airheads group and find someone near you to show you the ropes. These are simple bikes, but can be frustrating till you know what you're looking at. Fellow airhead riders tend to be very willing to help out another rider. Also, in your travels you'd be connected to that group as well and could meet up with them at the end of the day.
Since your bike was running well up to the point of not starting, I'd assume the problem is something simple. Just not knowing the proper starting technique might have been all it was.
Oh, and welcome to the forum and beemer ownership! I love that color!
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See if you can spot my problem...
Monte
I was beginning to think the "front cover shorting out the diode board" was largely a myth because of the grey paint insulating the soldered joints. I see the problem there in terms of burnt components but just for our edification do you know exactly which part of the diode board shorted out on the front cover.
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The top part of the diode board is the common, or grounded, side. Touching there isn't a problem.
But the lower side is the hot - and directly connected to the battery. That large spade terminal on the right is the one.
So contacting anywhere on the bottom half would do it.
I took my covers off for years without disconnecting the positive lead, and if you're careful there won't be a problem. But since seeing that warning I pull the negative lead every time.
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That large spade terminal on the right is the one. So contacting anywhere on the bottom half would do it.
I figured that but my live spade connections have insulating boots. That's why I'm curious how the shorting occurs. I even went over my diode board with a meter to check if anything really exposed was live and there's nothing as far as I can see. On the other hand I'm sure if you clout it hard enough with the cover...
Don't get me wrong I'm not advocating people taking risks here. Just curious and want to understand what's behind this long standing "Rule"
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[smiley=thumbup.gif][size=16]+[/size] Exactly what wirespokes said.
Considering the number of first-time Airhead, or any other motorcycle buyers we see just on this forum alone, I would be doubtful if any would be aware of the voltage "hot points" on the diode board- nor if the spades have insulation boots or not- prior to removing the front cover for the first time.
Jeez! What was that spark? And what's that funny smell? Why won't it start anymore? [smiley=furious3.gif]
Monte
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Your R65 idles but immediately dies when throttle is applied?
I'd clean the carburetor jets and cavities thoroughly especially the small enricher intake at the carb bowls as they tend to clog up very often.
+1 also on the Valve clearances, proper settings here will make a world of difference.
Congrats on the R65; sometimes it would seem to be a good idea to drop kick it out of frustration but I assure you that your hard work will eventually pay off ;D
I agree with Julio, sounds like fraud has gotten into your carbs jets. Might be good to put a whole new carb kit in if it's been sitting for a year. For you to have ridden 200 miles right off the bat leads me to believe something got loose is an is clocking your system.
Do you have a fuel filter in the fuel line? Maybe crud from the tank has broken loose.
Good luck!
Dell
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so it looks like I have another 10 business days to be in touring condition.
I totally agree that I need to hookup with another compassionate airhead owner for some hands on experience. I am willing to pay for service, but I want to learn, and I am a visual person, shown how to check valve clearance and I got it, teach a man to fish ya know. :D
any advice on where to find a group in northern california? I am about 200 odd miles north of san fran on the coast. mendocino county.
about to reassemble and see how she fires.
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and yeah I had totally removed the front cove prior to reading any of this.
luckily or maybe instinctively disconnected and removed the battery, first thing. no problems (i couldnt imagine leaving the battery on, when not needed. for any maintenance being a good idea) before I even took off the gas tank
bullet dodged, phew.
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down for a carb kit, can you recommend one, and where to buy? ebay?
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sorry for the multiple posts my attention span is short.
but yes I just replaced the cruddy a** fuel filter, cleaned the petcock drained the tank (flipped over to drain opposite side), jetted the carbs, and figured I would use sea foam to clean the tank, unless someone can reccomend other wise
(newbie warning) can you define clocking?
I know a lot of my questions are embarrassing, thanks for bearing with me.
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(newbie warning) can you define clocking?
"clocking" in the UK is slang for illegal tampering with the indicated mileage on the speedo
Did I miss the context of this somewhere ?
Edit: OK I got it I think Dell meant "choking"
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"clocking" in the UK is slang for illegal tampering with the indicated mileage on the speedo
In the US, it's akin to punching, or in this case, damaging via force.
See also: Clean his clock; [expr]
Usage:
Guy No. 1: I'm taking your R65 for a ride!
Guy No. 2: No you're not! <clock>
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Sparrow - it will cost more, but many of us would recommend going to the source (BING - no not that Micro$oft monstrosity, but Bing USA, the official distributor for all things to do with our carburetors. There are knock off/pattern copy parts kits available, but like many imitations, sometimes they don't work right, and then debugging/diagnosing things gets even more complicated. Buy it from Bing USA (they'll also sell you a catalog/manual with all the parts and info about your carbs for $11) and you'll have no worries or second guess. They also sell a DVD of a complete "how-to" for overhauling your carbs.
http://www.bingcarburetor.com/
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Sounds like a fun project!
Mine sat for a few years or more and I had to do everything you're describing - I took everything down - sandblasted & painted the frame, new pushrod seals, valve job, rings, brakes, tires, shocks, clutch, transmission, POR coated tank - WHEW - getting tired thinking about all the work I put into my R65 - but well worth it!
Really enjoying mine now that she runs - I couldn't start her the other day - guess what the RX was? (no gas ::))
Mendocino is a beautiful place on earth - I rode my K75 out there last summer to visit my good friend Steve Lancaster.
Good luck! Better make sure everything is solid before riding all the way out to Chicago! That's a long ride, bro!
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I replaced the plugs, fuel filter, ran seafoam, cleaned the life out of the carbs, cleaned electrical connections, scrubbed the petcock and screen, replaced the fuel line, inspected valves and rockers, and confirmed spark.
fired right up, thanks for all the help. :D ;D
The fuel tank looks like the red/orange inside line is peeling, the petcock was filthy. solutions?
I will buy a carb kit from bing, calling tomorrow.
I still have to test charging system, change cables and starter wires, change all fluids, changing fuses, bleed brakes, dial in valve clearance and rocker end play, and replace air filter (k&n?) I may replace the starter and alternator, though they seem strong now...
still to, pull a small dent out of the tank, get seat cover, rust stop and bondo bottom of seat, paint the ferings, batt box, touch up frame, headers, valve covers, and bmw logo on starter cover black do a sissy bar, and custom bag mounts. I want to get a bright a** headlight, maybe fog lights? I also want a windshield for long trips, is that unreasonable? also should I replace gaskets before the 2000 mile trip? any other preps I should be making?
I am going to take it to the local shop for the push rod seals, and have him "help me" "dial in" the carbs and timing.
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Quote:
"clocking" in the UK is slang for illegal tampering with the indicated mileage on the speedo
In the US, it's akin to punching,
Yep clock can mean face so it can be a smack in the face here in the UK too.
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I've heard NOT to put a K&N filter on these bikes - no gain. Go with stock.
If starter & alternator are working, I'd check brushes & clean up but otherwise, leave it in place.
Sounds like you're making great progress!
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The top part of the diode board is the common, or grounded, side. Touching there isn't a problem.
But the lower side is the hot - and directly connected to the battery. That large spade terminal on the right is the one.
So contacting anywhere on the bottom half would do it.
Just to satisfy my curiosity I checked it again and you are quite correct although the large spade connector has an insulating boot when connected the whole lower metal busbar is live. The two metal tabs arrowed that protrude either end of the board will be the bits likely to be touched when removing the cover. I think they could have designed it a bit better.
I'm happy now I know what the fuss is about.
(http://)
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Sparrow, there's an R65 riders handbook- in pdf format- in the FAQs section. It's for the 1981-84 model year R65s but much of the info with relate directly to your '79 model.
Worth printing a copy for shop reference and maintenance chores.
Monte
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great advice, going with stock filters.
my bike had the original riders manual under the seat.
and I found a pdf of the haynes twin workshop manual
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ordering parts online today...
just got new (used) headers w/o rust... 40 bones including shipping!
I will be posting my old ones on the trading post for frees, open for the forum, just paypal me shipping!
they are spot rusted, crossbars are pretty eaten up, but definitely still in usable condition, new cross bars and a great canditate for restore.
ill be doing this with any usable part I retire so keep your eyes open or email me at mendozeal@gmail.com.
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The fuel tank looks like the red/orange inside line is peeling, the petcock was filthy. solutions? <snip> push rod seals <snip>
The sea foam does this. No worries though. Finish the process with some nails or screws and some acetone and a whole lottta shakin'. Get everything out and let the tank completely dry. Then buy a Casewell kit and line the tank. The Casewell epoxy will cover and seal what ever is left of the red paint. Take the petcocks apart and clean the screens and the tubes.
On the push rod seals. If new seals doesn't cure the "seep" of oil, no worries, just have you mechanic tap the seal holders down the tubes towards the the seal once it is all back together. This puts more pressure on the seal making it seal better. Then either put on a hose clamp behind the collar or spot weld the collar in place and keep it from moving back up the push rod tub away from the block of the motor. They are just pressed on and can move around over time.
Another source of of "seep" oil is the two oil galley plugs on the LH side of the motor below and to the right of the oil pressure switch. Although these are almost impossibe to remove, they will sometimes seep oil. I have just gotten used to this on my 1980. One faces aft on the transmission end of the block, the other is below and to the right of the oil pressure switch.
When it comes time for your first spline lube (every 15,000 miles), do not put grease in the (female) friction plate splines like the picture in the CLYMER manual. You will contaminate your clutch with grease (bad bad bad). Only put Honda Moly 60 (or your favorite NLGI2 moly grease) on your transmission input splines and on the rod on the tip of said tranny input spline. Some mix a little Honda Moly 60 with their favorite NLGI2 grease and put it on.
Also the 1979 1980 R65 clutch asembly has six UNDOCUMENTED 6mm screws. Do not put the clutch pack together with the torque setting for the thicker 8mm screws that every other airhead from those years has. You will twist the heads off! Just snug 'em tight with some blue locktite and a small 1/4" drive ratchet.
My K&N filter has worked just fine for over 70,000 miles now. I have the filter cleaner and the oil which I do every 25,000 miles whether it needs it or not! :D
Most of us put a single tye wrap though the fins of the side cover around the frame tube because the plastic gets old and cracks or the rubbers wear out and go away and we don't want to loose an expensive side cover...
Good luck and welcome.
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side covers already gone :( searching for replacements :-X
and I bought the k&n, might not help but it couldnt hurt right?
ordering casewell.
and so the oil "seep" is pretty customary? I am going to have a go through with a mechanic (anyone in the SF bay area?) but wasnt actually too "worried" about it.
I tested my charging system today. not charging. died out in service. not stressing, just gives me some time to paint. I talked to rick jones this morning at motorrad elektrik. awesome help. getting me a dynacoil green, mounting bracket, wires, alternator coil, other alternator components. a starter lead kit (hopefully) and honestly whatever else he recommends.
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and gumby thank you, that was all insanely useful. printing it now under title notes for mechanic....
also my tank rattles something fierce in the low rpms, any clever reinforcing ideas?
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It is possible that the rubber bumpers that are at the fuel tank mount/contact points have gotten brittle, stiff, contracted, or disintegrated. There should be a rubber pad up toward the steering head that is maybe 3" long and semi-cylindrical, that fits into a "cup" or hollowed brace at the front of the tank. there should also be one or two soft rubber cushions at the back of the tank where the wirespring "bail" loops under the frame's backbone. If this is gone, I'd expect things to rattle back there. Someone will post a link to a microfiche with the part numbers - I'm having some PC issues at the moment.
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It is possible that the rubber bumpers that are at the fuel tank mount/contact points have gotten brittle, stiff, contracted, or disintegrated. There should be a rubber pad up toward the steering head that is maybe 3" long and semi-cylindrical, that fits into a "cup" or hollowed brace at the front of the tank. there should also be one or two soft rubber cushions at the back of the tank where the wirespring "bail" loops under the frame's backbone. If this is gone, I'd expect things to rattle back there. Someone will post a link to a microfiche with the part numbers - I'm having some PC issues at the moment.
Parts 2, 3 & 4, also a rubber sleeve on clip part 13 that can wear through, mine has almost had it!
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.maxbmwmotorcycles.com%2Ffiche%2FDiagramsMid%2FB0000408.png&hash=4646f52ee73d5417b693c9a074b6168560bbd7e8)
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51897&rnd=03252011
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... also my tank rattles something fierce in the low rpms, any clever reinforcing ideas?
You've mentioned the need for some carb work. After replacing worn Bing bits, a proper carb synchronization will do wonders with quelling the vibration uprising.
Monte
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awesome! perfect!
so much work being done!
and I ordered a carb sync kit (the plug short type) it includes instructions but I am taking her to BMW of santa rosa for push rod seals, and help show me all the proper syncing techniques.)
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... I am taking her to BMW of santa rosa for...help show(ing) me all the proper syncing techniques.
Sparrow, you reminded me of a way back sign I once saw in an indy bike shop...
LABOR RATES
$50.00 Per Hour
$100.00 if you watch
$150.00 if you help
Are you still planning on your Iron Butt Chicago run? Take some cool snaps for us. [smiley=camera_sm.jpg]
Monte
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haha
they woulda charged me 200 to help.... beautiful!
you shoulda read the email I sent to bmw of santa rosa... "please, Ill behave and just sit in the corner all quiet like!"
I also bought a 14mpxl tough camera, like I said, you guys will be with me the whole "Iron butt" trek!
and this restore is going great! ill post pics in the end too!
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I also bought a 14mpxl tough camera, like I said, you guys will be with me the whole "Iron butt" trek!
Cool when are you attempting this?
My first IBA ride on the R65 was a 50 hours Jax to San Deigo (Sept 2006Z). I'm on "the list".
http://www.ironbutt.com/rides/rideslogin.cfm
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Cool when are you attempting this?
My first IBA ride on the R65 was a 50 hours Jax to San Deigo (Sept 2006Z).I'm on "the list"
Ha I had no idea this was a real thing!?!?...
Hopefully I leave by the first of september. I am going to register now!
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hi sparrow, just got my own r65 ls, 1982 vintage . Good luck with the trip and all the best , look forward to seeing those pictures.
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aight.
so beginning to end....
changed rear cluster,
painted rear fairing, flat black, rubberized undercoat.
Vinyl wheel rings, gunmetal.
changed seat to 83 r65 stock (fit perfect)
fit with 79 short rear cowling and toolbox, fitted with green PUCH roundell, painted flat black, titanium pinstripe, clear coat.
brand new reproduction silencers
new battery
new wire harness, new cable wrap
new fuses, new fuse holder(s).
DE-RUSTED and POLISHED EVERYTHING,
wire scrubbed and "wd,ed" every electrical connection
casewell kit for gas tank.
bondo gas tank dent
painted tank, flat black, titanium pinstripe, clear coat. fitted with 70mm blue bmw gel type roundells
painted air cleaner housing cover.
k & n air filter
k &n oil filter
genuine BMW MOTORAD sae 20W50 oil change, cut 5% lucas
new bing diaphragms, o rings, and gaskets.
painted frame, flat black.
polished, re greased and re-fit foot pedals, (shifter/rear brake)
new ICU
new dynacoil green!
new NGK 5k plug cords
and NGR BR(?) plugs.
painted rocker covers
adjusted valve clearance (exhaust was almost closed!)
new rocker cover gaskets.
repainted bmw logo and polished starter cover.
new exhaust fin nuts and expander washers.
polished headers in and out, new crossover fab from stainless. , painted with hi temp flat black ceramic, and wrapped and siliconed
painted front cover flat black.
new alternator rotor.
new condensor
new contact set
new alternator brushes.
new diode to starter wire set.
new fuel line,
new petcock screen
lotsa shiny new nuts bolts and washers
ran sea foam
installed "plexifairing 3" (windshield) (removable with 4 hand screws!)
greased and refit throttle, bled brakes, and flushed clutch.
new foam handgrips
painted front fairing, flat black, titanium pinstripe, clear coat.
painted head cluster frame and headlight dome, flat black, clear coat.
synced carbs, reset timing, and lubed up like a german prostitute.
growl. 8-)
I have push rod seals, but the seep seems to have quit :o
still leaking a bit of oil from the galley, :-/
and the tack shorts with the high beam on. ?. :-[
and Im making bagmounts for guitars now, and fitting big ass sissy bar for my frame pack.. ;D
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What is the part number for your K&N Oil Filter and where did you get it?
Thanks
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well I have the round style air filter, with the metal housing, (r60 style) and the k&n (after being sent 2 totally wrong filers) barely fit, and had to be cranked down on hard to seal. after 2,000 miles it fits like a glove
the one I am running is the BM-0200
the flat k&n (for just about every other r65 is the BM-0300
both of these are easy to find on ebay motors
hope this helps, woulda helped me! 8-)
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Hi All
How does the tank release; for cleaning out etc!
Thanks
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, wiggle it a bit back while you are pulling back on it
.
You need to remove the fuel line from the fuel tap .
Some bikes have an overflow hose connected to the drain in fuel filler area, take that off, it can hinder the removal process .
Lift the seat up, at the back of the backbone frame tube, there is a metal 'bail' over the end of the frame tube, pull it back so it's free of the tube .
Then lift up on the back of the tank and pull it back .
The tank fits into a rubber bumper at the front, it can get hung up on this, if the tank hasn't been removed in a while .
If it hangs up, try spraying some window cleaner in there, it will lube things up a bit and aid in removal .