The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: 79beem on September 24, 2011, 06:29:08 PM
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Having tentatively tried to remove my reservoir and being a little more wary of the instructions in my Clymer.
Any advice on how to get the bugger off?
Clymer said to "carefully pull up and rotate reservoir".
( clockwise/anti ? )
Mine won't budge......... I have removed all cap screws and retaining screw underneath.
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Have you removed the twist grip yet?
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If you have a plastic round reservoir master cylinder, they are bonded (glued) to the metal assembly, not meant to be removed or separated .
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If you have a plastic round reservoir master cylinder, they are bonded (glued) to the metal assembly, not meant to be removed or separated .
Oh - is that what me meant?
Yup - true.
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Its a square one chaps and they apparently come off.
Just the reservoir, not the whole assembly.
Anyone taken theirs off?
If so, how?
Cheers
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The only thing that is holding the resevoir into the master cylinder when the screws are removed, is an o-ring on the resevoir that seals against themastercylinder .
try to rotate it side to side to see if it breaksfree .
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The only thing that is holding the resevoir into the master cylinder when the screws are removed, is an o-ring on the resevoir that seals against themastercylinder .
try to rotate it side to side to see if it breaksfree .
STOP!
There is a small sheetmetal screw that comes up from the bottom that must be removed first, SHeeesh youse guys are dangerous!
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Busted, forgot that one !!!!
Long time since I've had mine off (1998!!!!!) .
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Theres an o'ring under the square ones!!!!
That explains where the fluid is coming from!
Thanks
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There's about a half inch (12mm) round extension from the resevoir, it fits into the inlet of the master cylinder housing, the o-ring is on the outside of it .
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The only thing that is holding the resevoir into the master cylinder when the screws are removed, is an o-ring on the resevoir that seals against themastercylinder .
try to rotate it side to side to see if it breaksfree .
STOP!
There is a small sheetmetal screw that comes up from the bottom that must be removed first, SHeeesh youse guys are dangerous!
Here is a great example why you need a technical manual, when you work on something like a motorcycle, the people that made postings on this subject have done the job before and completely forgot this one important fact about a 'hidden' fastener .
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Mine won't budge......... I have removed all cap screws and retaining screw underneath.
So the screw the OP mentioned is not the same one you all are talking about?
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Yes, it is the same one, I guess wirewkr missed that in the posting .
Like I said, get a manual, people are fallible !!!!
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You're correct!, My bad.
I don't even have an excuse anymore, I quit drinking on September first!
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i had a bit of a time getting mine off as well--a square reservoir on my 1983 r65. it was stuck on there pretty good--corroded. had to keep working around and pulling/prying up. there's a little plastic piece sticking down on the underside of the reservoir--don't break that off--you''ll want to make sure of where that is before you start rotating the reservoir on where it attached to the M/C. then it'll hopefully come off easier
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I would suspect the reservoir is "glued" in place by old brake fluid. Try wrapping MC with a soaking wet cloth (warm) and letting the water soak into the separation of the MC and the housing. I'd gently rock the MC res. back and forth until it breaks free. I seriouslt doubt anything will break.
Good luck!
Dell
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In support of Dell and Ken's recommendation...
After the 3 long top cap screws have been removed along with the small phillips base screw at the bottom of the unit, try rocking the reservoir back-and-forth from the base, or front to back as when the unit is positioned on the bars.
Don't twist, there are 2 small plastic positioning nipples in the bottom of the reservoir that fit into the base. Do I dare admit I had to use a small wooden hammer handle wedge to create a little seperation between the reservoir and base of my stubborn unit? Of course I would NEVER advise you to CAREFULLY pry inbetween the base and reservoir.
You might leave it out in the sun to warm it up a bit but as long as all the 4 screws are removed a good secure grasp on the reservoir with one hand and the base with another hand, then working both in opposite directions should get them to come apart. Once you get them to seperate a little try to lift (or carefully pry) the reservoir upwards not to damage the circular o-ring groove in the bottom of the reservoir where it is seated inside the base unit.
Good luck.
-Mike V.
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Glad i waited!
seems Clymer instructions might be on target if there are 2 locateing lugs/nipples. Thanks to all who chipped in on this one, I'll let you know how i go.
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Right! There are two locating pins, so the reservoir won't turn unless it's up about 1/4".
What tends to happen (my supposition) is this: when topping up the reservoir, it's very easy to get fluid down the cap screw columns and thus between the reservoir and MC. That causes the corrosion. That, and moisture can get in there anyway - it doesn't take much for aluminum to corrode.
That said, the reservoir has a tit that fits into a receiving hole in the MC, with an oring to prevent fluid leaking out. Corrosion has now built up 'above' that oring, and that's what's preventing removal.
With the MC removed, do what you can to get penetrating oil down through the screw holes, or something to handle aluminum corrosion. With a putty knife you can lever up a corner of the reservoir and wiggle a little. Use a heat gun or hair dryer and put it through several heat/cold cycles - lubricating/de-corroding all the time as well.
It's a fiddly job, but somebody's gotta do it!
Take your time and eventually it'll come free without damaging the plastic.