The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: baffle on August 29, 2011, 06:51:38 AM
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Have been running a 1980 R65 for a few years now, and getting increasingly embarassed by the amount of chatter coming from under my rocker covers, despite routinely setting the clearances. There has always been a little ticking coming from the Left side that has really annoyed me and even my chronic deafness don't mask out. Anyway the tappety rattle since the last clearance set was getting too much to bear, so I thought I would do some googling and see what I could come up with. Found this forum and some other Beemer pages, found some how tos on reducing rocker shaft float , had a go this morning, and thankfully the bike is transformed. Smoother, and much much quieter having set tappets to 0.006 and 0.010 and removed end play. Left side exhaust had a axial gap - perhaps the source of the persistent ticking. I found a C clamp and two sockets acting as spacers the best way to tighten the endfloat out. So thankyou so much for existing! :) Also found advice on flywheel marks - I have always been convinced there is no "OT" on mine, only a Dot at TDC, but using a torch and looking carefully, "OT" is there. I think the Haynes advice to detorque and retorque head each time should be accompanied by advice on how to set the pillow block end float, cos one is bound to effect the other at some stage.
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I think the Haynes advice to detorque and retorque head each time should be accompanied by advice on how to set the pillow block end float, cos one is bound to effect the other at some stage.
Welcome baffle.
That's a very good point you make. For me it's another good reason too leave well alone and not to routinely re-torque the heads.
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You know we like photos of forum members bike! Post up. There's a how-to in the FAQs.
Welcome to the asylum. :D
Monte
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Welcome aboard, Baffle!
Glad that you found us. Yes, keeping the endfloat of the rocker arms reasonable can do alot as far as keeping these old sewing machines quieter.
Post pics of your bike when you can!
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The only times I re-torque are after the heads have been off or if there is evidence of seepage...
Oh, welcome!
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Welcome!
Agreed - don't retorque needlessly. :-)
Wonder who or why that started?
Another point to consider: torque values are for clean, dry threads. Normally when torquing cylinder heads, the studs and nuts still have oil on them, in which case the torque values should be reduced by something like a third. Otherwise, overtorquing will occur, and we all know where that can lead! :o
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I torque all of my Airheads to 20 lb/ft and have never had a pulled stud or leak. Knock, knock...
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I was going to recomend ear plugs, but all is sorted, so no need to. :D