The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: chris_blake on July 19, 2011, 03:49:13 PM
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i am getting a loud screeching noise from the clutch when i release the clutch lever even when the bike is in neutral when the lever is pulled in there is no noise. before i pull the clutch is there anything else i should check. i have hadsome trouble with the clutch switch recently the reason isay this is i dont understand why it makes the noise in neutral as well i have tried to remove the clutch pushrod but cannot get the pushrod out seems jammed. so any help much appreciated cheers chris
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Can't tell what year bike you have, also how many miles/kilometers has the bike accumulated ?
You cannot get the clutch pushrod removed from the transmission with the swing arm in the way, it's too long to clear it .
How does the clutch pushrod bearing, that's the one under the rubber boot at the rear of the transmission look .
It's supposed to have lube on it, gear lube grease, it should not be 'dry' .
To remove the push rod without removing the transmission, you need to remove the swing arm .
The end of the pushrod, has a hole that's threaded, like some sort of tool could be inserted there then removed, by say something like a slide hammer, or puller .
It's a possibility that you may need a bit of grease on the pushrod where it contacts the diaphragm spring .
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hello bob thebike is 86 r65 mono when i say i cant remove pushrod i can not remove it at all i seem to remember you can just pull out the rod so far untill it hits the swingarm if the clutch is the problem would it still do it in neutral cheers chris
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I would pull it anyway check the thrust bearing and lube the drive splines, especially if you dont know the history of the bike and while you have it stripped down do the splines on the crown wheel ...(er i think thats called something else in the states)(rear wheel drive splines) then you can forget about it for the next 5 years.......
Lou
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and while you have it stripped down do the splines on the crown wheel ...(er i think thats called something else in the states)(rear wheel drive splines) then you can forget about it for the next 5 years.......
One of the delights about the mono-shock bikes is there are no final drive splines to worry about! :)
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and while you have it stripped down do the splines on the crown wheel ...(er i think thats called something else in the states)(rear wheel drive splines) then you can forget about it for the next 5 years.......
One of the delights about the mono-shock bikes is there are no final drive splines to worry about! :)
Oooh Eeer learn something every day about these new fangled bikes, you will be telling me next that it hasnt got points.
Lou [smiley=lolk.gif]
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decided will have to pull box outer bearing and end of rod look fine should be able to remove gearbox over weekend whatever happens have decided to replace all seals and such in swingarm and drive shaft also found oil has shifted from gearbox to swingarm so any help much appreciated
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Can you let me know if the noise is the same as I have on mine.
Go to You Tube-BMW motorcycle r65 engine squeal, where there is a short video.
If it is the same or similar noise, let me know what you find and I might be brave and start pulling mine apart.
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pulled gearbox looks bad splines on gearbox seem ok but teeth on clutch side almost completely stripped lots of shiney specks of metal not sure if i can just change clutch side dont know what correct name is for part any advice
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pulled gearbox looks bad splines on gearbox seem ok but teeth on clutch side almost completely stripped lots of shiney specks of metal not sure if i can just change clutch side dont know what correct name is for part any advice
Clutch plate? Item #4. ?
Stop riding the bike before more damage occurs. Inspect the rest of the clutch components for possible and/or likely replacement. Do you see any remnants of spline lubricant? Consider yourself fortunate that the gearbox splines are OK. That replacement would be quite costly.
Lacking regular spline lube maintenance from the POs, it's now time for you to make a liberal application of "wallet grease."
Your shop manual will be the primary tool in removal of the rotating assembly.
Sorry for your loss [smiley=cry.gif]
Monte
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hello lodekka the noise is not the same yours sounds more like it is coming from the engine not the clutch cheers chris
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just got some time to start replacing clutch manual says a clutch centering tool must be used but motorworks dont list one . i know some are saying it is not needed but are there any tips to doing this as once the 6 bolts are tightened and it is not central this must cause problems on the shaft 86 r65 mono cheers chris
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just got some time to start replacing clutch manual says a clutch centering tool must be used but motorworks dont list one . i know some are saying it is not needed but are there any tips to doing this as once the 6 bolts are tightened and it is not central this must cause problems on the shaft 86 r65 mono cheers chris
I just eye-balled mine, I didn't use a centering tool. The 6 bolts that hold the clutch carrier don't allow any motion of the carrier anyway; all that can move in there is the clutch friction disk itself. That splined hole in the middle is what you need to get centered.
I read about a trick to help that go well. Assemble the clutch with the disk centered as best you can, then install the tranny up to the clutch. You'll have to wiggle it some to get the splines to line up. Dont tighten the tranny mounting bolts all the way until you have the clutch cable hooked up, and pull and release the clutch a few times. That will center the disk, then you can tighten the tranny mounting bolts.
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I believe that it can be done without a centering arbor, but I've got one and have always used it, so I don't have 1st hand experience on NOT using one to tell you how it went. Apparently, the tool is similar to one which is used on old VW (airhead) clutches as well, so if you know someone who work in an automotive garage maybe they'll have one you can borrow.
I bought mine from BMW dealer, but there are drawings around where one could get some made up if they had a friend with a lathe or a machine shop.
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thanks everyone think i will do it by eye if i centre it to the centre hole in the plate behind i think it will be ok guess i will find out soon enough anyway
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Hi Chris,
ED Korn has the clutch centering tool you need. All the tools you will ever need for the BMW here
http://cycleworks.net/
Ops Looks like Ed has retired but the company is still there (thank goodness).
Make sure you put Honda Moly grease on the transmission splines only plus one little drop on the rod tip at the end of the tranmission input shaft. Don't put any grease on the splines inside the clutch friction plate. And also do the throughout bearing service on the rear end of the transmission as well.
read this article by the Snowbum
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/inputsplinesthrowout.htm
Good luck.
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done the clutch only carried out a short shakedown but seems fine . changed the clutch cable at same time and i must say the clutch feels lighter than it ever has so i am very pleased with that. one thing i did struggle with was alignment of the swingarm how accurate does that have to be i dont have a set of verniers so i used feeler gauges to level it cant see why it has to that exact or have i missed something.just have to say the airbox assembly is a real pain in my opinion still its done now .thanks for all your help its good to know all that knowledge is out there cheers chris
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Try to get the swing arm centered, then check to see if the u-joint contacts the swingarm housing, if it does, adjust it to where it clears and call it good .
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cheers bob knew someone would know an easier way